Matt Saunoras

Yeah I didn't make it to the battery box yesterday. No idea there was anything down in that area. I'll stop down there and look at it today. Does international make a repair kit for this or do you improvise? Update - talked to the customer today. The fuse in the battery box was melted, they managed to wiggle it and get the truck running long enough to pull it back in the garage. Had them call International and they've got some parts on order for Tuesday. I'll stop down one day next week and see if I can do the repair.

When the 2014 "stuck in idle only" issue first started I had a few trucks that needed PCMs. Then they came out with the procedure to clear the message and I still couldn't get it to work. Replaced a few pcms about a year ago and haven't seen any with that message since.

The telephone company I do work for has an International 4200 that they use very infrequently, maybe a thousand miles a year. They called me today and said they pulled it out of the garage, left it sit a few hours and now it won't crank with the ignition. It'll crank but wont start from the rear switch they have. The vin for this truck is if it helps 1HTMPAFM63H603394 From what I gather the ECM and IDM are not being powered up. There is no power at either relay in the underhood fuse box. When I key on the wait to start light does not stay on like it would with a cold start. I have a code reader but couldn't decipher any of the faults it pulled out. I've heard about a problematic fuse that is an extremely common issue but I couldn't locate it tonight when I went down to their garage. Anyone have any tips or point me in the right direction? The local International dealer does service calls but we'd like to use that as a last resort.

Getting bitched at by the customer about this 6.0 that needs resealed and I haven't got it in yet. Haven't had a free rack since its been here. Luckily today I can get it in or they would have pulled it out.

Got an 02 F-550 7.3L ZF-6 here that was towed in, running like crap and stalling out. Barely made it off the trailer. We've had a bunch of rain here the last few days so I started looking at some wiring. Found vref for the accelerator pedal rubbed through on the LF shock tower. Fixed that, now I can't get it to act up BUT it sets a P1211 under hard acceleration. Had a ICP, IPR and fuel strainers replaced about 3k miles ago by me after the thing died on a roadtest. Seems to be fine, driving it normally it won't code. I need to look and see if this thing has a chip first. It's an auction truck with unknown history.

Just thinking out loud is oil condition okay?

Okay there Clayton Bradley

I would think even though it is an 05 MY since it's definitely an 04 engine, verified by the throttle plate, that it would use 04 programming also. I have no idea what the differences are with the valves but I do believe there must actually be a difference. The outer appearance is the same so it must be with the electronics. If you would like I'll take an 03-04 valve and plug it into an 05 truck and see if it faults or reads different KOEO

Here's a good one, got down to the cause of my 6.7 low fuel pressure issue. Ordered a tank for it because I wasn't happy with the vacuum it was pulling but at the same time wasn't totally sure of what was happening. Removed the tank today and took out the pickup to swap it over. While it was out I had a real close look at it for the brain bank. Noticed something at the bottom of the bowl, not very easy to see actually. It was a damn cardboard disc from a fuel additive cap floating around in the pickup bowl. Man that thing had to make one hell of a journey to end up there, the filler neck is at the opposite end of the tank. No doubt this was the whole issue with it stalling out. I read about this happening but I wouldn't believe it if I hadn't seen it. That damn thing is the perfect size to cause an issue with the way these pickup tubes are designed.

No nothing like that. I ordered a tank for it, the only thing that makes me feel better is the known issue with these tank vents. Hotline agrees with what I've come up with so far. In the mean time the tranny is back out of the rollback, rechecked endplay with the belts off and it is .008-.009", still well under spec, the runout of the rear crankshaft adapter appears to be minimal if any. And I've got the tranny out of the E-450 bus. It's getting a reman unit, one injector on each side, heater hoses and a turbo cleaning. Also sold a engine reseal on some 6.0 gas well garbage.

Tried the smoke machine pressure meter and an airlift tool for vacuuming coolant systems. Both tests were inconclusive. I tried my own truck as a control and I get the same results. If I use the smoke machine pressure test I get about a .020" leak either way. I was able to pull a decent vacuum on both tanks, mine and the suspect one with the airlift tool. Without pulling the tank I located the little dust cap on the "vent", removed it and ran a hose up to the nipple. I was able to actuate the check ball with about 5 inHg vacuum. These unscientific tests are getting me no where. I'm not exactly sure how this "vent" is supposed to work.

I'm using the black engine silicone for nearly everything now. The caulking tube costs just as much as a smaller tube of gray and I can keep it from drying out much easier. The big plus is using a gun to dispense.

OEM or aftermarket filter? Aftermarket 6.7 secondary FF are bad news..... I take it the fuel filter cover and o-ring were installed properly? Just curious what codes you had. Well the truck came back. Seems to be routine with what I work on lately.The customer filled it up after he left on Friday and had no problems until late yesterday when I got a message saying it was running fine but the fuel system was making a lot of noise. I verified it today, very loud but running okay. He went through a whole tank of fuel before it started happening again.One thing lead to another and I popped the fuel cap off and it hissed real loud, the fuel pump is pulling a vacuum on a tank, vent must be restricted. Right after that no more noise.A few years ago I changed some plastic midship tanks for the same reason but I can't remember what the vent looked like or if it could be cleared out.

Got one done over the weekend and 3 more came in

Doing a little home improvement at the shop. I recently bought a 3/4" impact and not wanting to hold it back any I spliced in a fitting for a half inch hose. The couplers are 3/8" high flow v-style.That air line is the first drop from the compressor and unfortunately it gets the most water. what I need to do is put a cross in there and drop to a ball valve to let it all out. That's the next plan.

Lifter for sure. That's a sight I won't soon forget

P0087, P008A, P0170, and 2 contribution codes, can't remember which cylinders. This was a 15 F-250, 25k miles, no history of anything, owned by the supervisor of my best fleet. Filters were OEM only 5k on them. I did think about the lower filter sucking air but I may have fixed that when I removed and regreased the oring. I tried to blow as hard as I could through the secondary filter and could not. This thing was humming very loudly up until I put the new sec filter in. Changed the filters, put 30 miles on it and let it go. We'll see how it turns out.

Anyone ever had a 6.7 secondary fuel filter restricted but when you cut it open nothing looks wrong? Got one here today towed in with low fuel pressure codes. It stalled at one point but idled okay enough to load onto and off of the truck. Fuel system was humming pretty loudly until I changed the secondary filter, then it was fine. Drove the truck 30 miles and it never acted up

Yeah but if the pump was replaced because the fitting blew out then there's a chance that snap ring has been hiding in the oil pan til now

I pull the fan and stator as one, leave the rad in. If you take the rad mounts off the top and flip the positive battery cable up you can pull the rad forward and slide the fan shroud up and out. Watch the degas nipple on the rad, don't drag the shroud over it. Once all that stuff is out the balancer bolts come out easily with an impact.

Yeah I put a reman trans in it, pump was damaged and had a few burned clutch packs. It has to be engine related, I did not think about the serp belt being attached affecting endplay but I need to check it with the belt off. Unfortunately the circumstances that played out the day I got this thing running did not allow me to follow up on the repair. I admittedly released it too soon. The entire 20 mile post repair roadtest the truck was in regen. Power and engine noise were affected for sure and I couldn't really tell how it was running. Then when I got back from the roadtest the customer showed up curious about getting it back. I let it go too soon, just checked for codes and leaks, both were good so I gave it back to them.

I had a 6.0 that ate the wire snap ring from an STC fitting. Pulled it out of the regulator but it still wouldn't build base. Pulled the gerotor out and it looked okay until you really looked close. It was like the teeth were wire-wheeled down. Put new gears in it and it fired right up. Over a year later it came back with the STC blown all the way out. I had just assumed initially that it had been replaced and the ring was a leftover.

Rollback is back, flexplate #6 broken clean off the crankshaft flange. Whatever the issue is I clearly didn't identify it initially. It happens while driving down the road so that basically eliminates PTO misuse. I have no idea at this point. The next plan is to run the engine with the tranny removed and see if anything shows itself.

The other 6.0 had the rear ficm plug come loose. Zip tied it for now and it's gone. Gonna have to come back for headgaskets and an oil cooler. I'm 90% sure this truck has "black onyx" headgaskets and studs installed. I could see black paint flaking off the exposed gasket. Last time it was here it blew the lower rad tank off post repair road test. Today it built 15psi in the bottle.

You may want to flush that black goo sludge out and make sure fresh axle lube is present. You'll probably have to pull the PTU to do this but on my own personal vehicle I'd think it would be worth it. There is a recent post on the FMC boards about this, some guys think 75w-140 isn't heavy enough fluid for the stress the PTU endures