Matt Saunoras

EBP absolute is going to be about 14.7 psi higher than EBP desired if I remember correctly (whatever value baro is will be the difference). If EBP was that much higher than commanded VGT duty cycle would be low trying to compensate. Edit - Scratch that, whatever valve EBP A is at KOEO will be the difference, not necessarily what Baro is.

I just went through all this on the last 2 hot no starts I had. It's such a pain to figure these things out sometimes even though we've been doing it for years. Anymore I feel like all the easy trucks are fixed

Hahaha

A buddy of mine tried to "fix" his stiction by sanding his spool valves. What he didn't know was that you're only supposed to sand the ends to remove any varnish and restore the surface. He sanded the 2 lands in the middle and ended up with a truck that would stall when hot from a lack of ICP. It is definitely possible to have a leak here.

I hit "next" one too many times ...when you had your facebook link up there that is

The other guy who works with me spent days on a loss of HS-CAN somewhere in a newer 13-14ish super duty, I never did hear exactly what he found but I believe it was an inline connector under the dash somewhere that he reseated and everything was fine after that.

Those 2 little holes on the top of the injector is where the oil exhausts. When the spool valve moves to the closed position the high pressure oil flow stops and the intensifier piston return spring pushes out the oil that was used for injection out of the injector. What I don't know or understand is if the injector has a preferred position for when the engine is attempting to build enough ICP to start. I would imagine that it would be ideal if the spools were in the closed position when ICP was trying to build, that way the high pressure oil is deadheaded against the spool and can't leak in or out. (If it leaked in that means the injector would fire, if it leaked out that would be a loss of ICP) Spool valve clearance is extremely tight and I attempted to make measurements on failed injectors but was unable to get any. Excessive wear in the center part of the spool valve would cause oil pressure to be lost through the injector itself and show up as a leak at the exhaust ports.

Yeah the rails are costly. I have never seen one bad but I picked up a core and resealed it myself just to have one around as a tester. The nipple o-rings are serviceable through Alliant Power. The last one I had leaking at #2 and #4 I was able to use a mirror to look under the rail and actually see the air bubbling out of the injector exhaust ports. I believe the injector spool valves are supposed to "park" and any air leaking here means the spools are sticking or are too worn out to hold oil pressure.

I noticed these trucks not ramping up the idle cold anymore too. Perhaps this was a 14e03 change. Also did you reset the HPFP tables?

On a retail job I would include a fuel cooler also. Warranty supports flushing, I don't exactly agree.

Yeah tell me about it. I just did that fuel system on that 15. Already had the puller and perfect sized bolts to pull the gear. Got in there and no holes in the gear. WTF? Left me wondering for a second if I was losing my mind. Thankfully the gear is not as tight as a 6.4. You may be able to give it a few raps without removing the pump.

I forgot to mention that...... BIG SURPRISE, we can't get this claim paid. Partially due to the fact that we jumped through so many hoops/skipped the whole process that we didn't get prior approval. I was told by my SM that we did not need it. Oh well.

Worked on a truck not long ago with super low miles that already had a retail complete dropped in it. It was a construction truck and the driver knocked the oil filter off on a rock and drove it until it locked up.

I own 3 snap on boxes. My main triple bay with top is the mid priced classic series. Top and bottom together probably paid 8k but I didn't buy them together. There's about a 5 year span between the 2 and of course I made payments on them each time. My smaller box is a single bay heritage box, snagged it (in like new condition) off Craigslist for $500. They are loaded with snap on tools but not all were purchased retail. Things like wrench sets can be scored off eBay for a good price when pawn shops take them in. I do admittedly have a large amount invested in tools. No one in either shop I've worked in would come close anymore.

The headgaskets are 20mm right? Put the stepped dowels in the block until they rest on the shoulder then set the headgasket down. Edit - wait I re-read your post. The stepped dowels have always felt tight to me when seating in the block, I'd guess it seats in the head tight too. Is there a shoulder in the bolt hole of the head that the dowel hits against? If not I'd just assume once the head is tightened down the dowels will seat fully.

I stick a new set of shorter pushrods in every one I have the heads off. No issue at all doing this and I've probably done 20 sets by now. One of the last high mileage 6.0s I had apart I put a new set of lifters in and noticed the guides are updated to the 6.4 style. This engine is well into 200k miles and has about 20k on the new lifters already. I have not had the bed plate off one with that many miles but I would expect to see some wear on the main bearings at that point. If it is a standard bearing they are cheap to replace.

When do I get my sock? Wait.....never mind.

I'm going with a new tool box. One of our techs brought one in Friday from Home Depot.

I assume you're running motorcraft fuel additives? The cardboard disc in the bottle cap will fall out once fresh additive contacts it (after you break the foil seal). When you remove the cap the disc can stay on the bottle opening and you can inadvertantly dump a disc into the tank. This doesn't sound like a big deal but the way the sending unit is bowl shaped if this disc winds up in the bowl it will intermittently clog the pickup tube causing low fuel pressure. I had one truck do this to me already basically running me in circles until I removed the tank and found it. THEN on top of it I almost dumped a disc into my own truck. Managed to realize it was missing from the cap, and fished it out of my filler neck.

Well I saw one that needs the upper pan resealed. I figure it's the worst possible vehicle to have to make this repair. It's an early 15 F-550 service body that tips the scales over 20k lbs all day long. The truck is in constant service so I'm not sure when it will be back but I get to think about it until then. It does have a tranny mounted PTO and there's no way my racks will lift it. This thing is a monster, definitely the heaviest 550 I've driven.

Nope I read about the issues after the 11B23 recall but never had any concerns afterwards. Granted that was when we were in the old shop and our truck volume was 1/4 of what it is now.

Damn it I hate when my turbo stalls out! That's the worst!

Hahaha I bet! BTW the one I had today was hyper extended, not quite that bad though.

Yeah there is definitely only one exact spot that ring will come out. I usually fuck with it for 5 or 10 minutes before I figure it out. Done a lot of t-stats for P0128 that had the seals torn but actually never seen a hyperextended one that I can remember.

I showed this post to a guy in the shop today. He has a 2.5 escape that's 40psi low in #3 and 4 and is getting cross leakage between the two cylinders. Not sure if its the same thing but we should know tomorrow.