Matt Saunoras

The wrench light in the 09 F-550 6.4 was a code I've never seen before. P00B7? Cooling system performance? I'm going to try a set of thermostats in it tomorrow but otherwise?

Yeah I would rather not mess with the rear flange either. A guy I know is a machinist for blackwater engines and that's all he deals with day in and out. He says it's okay to remove the rear flange as long as you get a dial indicator on it afterwards and make sure there's no runout. The bolts are the same as the front crank pulley and it should use the same torque spec.

Good deal, I haven't seen a bad lifter in a long time and actually never been given the chance to try and fix one. I wouldn't mind trying though. Amongst all the other crap that's here the phone companies 03 International 4200 bucket truck showed up today. It's here for inspection and they need the rear brakes looked at. This should be interesting.

Got a handful of trucks outside and the other guy I work with is off next week. Couple 6.4s, one is getting a HPFP gasket and exhaust manifolds, the other needs diag for a wrench light. Got a 6.2 getting an a/c compressor + 7.3 ZF-6 with a broken shifter issue.

Yes the rollback did have shifting issues prior to breaking flexplates and when I tore the whole thing down it had a damaged pump and some burned clutches. Also some fine metal I couldn't pinpoint, possibly from the torque converter. At first I figured it was the harsh shifting that was busting the plates, until it came back. I jammed a known good used plate in it and that's when I really put some miles on the thing, got it hot and noticed the engine knock it was making and that the engine "just didnt feel right". The FSE verified what I had noticed, not only the noise but the vibration also.

Yes the plate basically blocks boost. When EBP is higher than boost in the intake (always) it promotes good EGR flow, how much difference between boost and EBP will dictate how much positive EGR flow. Perhaps if the engine has a restricted EGR cooler the throttle plate could be used more to block incoming boost and in theory make more EGR flow. The way I test for a welded off or clogged up EGR cooler is to remove the EGR valve completely and start the engine. If the engine runs fine and doesn't choke out then there is not enough (if any) flow through the cooler. The plate can be removed from the EGR throttle housing while still leaving it plugged in electronically. This could rule out any undesired operation from the plate.

Yup a complete engine assembly comes with $13,000 dowel pins.

I'll start this one off with the town I work in. Small rural town, everyone knows each other, everyone hates ford diesels. This story involves a local towing company and a local construction company. Both own F-550 6.4 trucks that they purchased off us new back before I even knew what a diesel was. Naturally when I started at this dealer in 09 I was cutting my teeth doing the warranty work on both of these trucks and many others. The tow truck is an 18ft rollback and the construction truck is just an extended cab service body. I have always done the heavy line work on the rollback but the construction company has their own mechanics. Once the warranty is up there is zero chance I'll ever touch their trucks again. That's the way they are, don't get me wrong, they have no issues asking questions and picking my brain about shit but they'd prefer to throw every part under the sun at something rather than have it properly diagnosed. They have a hard on for being as capable as the dealer. The reason is the shop foreman and the lead mechanic are both ex-employees where I work. When my boss bought out the dealer I work for everyone went up in arms and quit to go work down the street. That's where I was brought in, fresh out of asset I had some certs they needed. Fast forward to now there are some hard feelings now that the new building is up and the fact is it's the nicest damn place in the whole town. My GM (ex owner of the dealership) has a bromance with the ex-service manager aka shop foreman for the construction company. Whatever he says is gold. Whatever I say doesn't matter. This construction company is the elite of the elite, they get parts at 10% over cost and basically whatever they want, whenever they want but they don't spend a dime in the service dept. I try like hell to please these guys and have them maybe throw me a truck once in a while but it never happens. And now onto the trucks. I posted before about the 08 F-550 rollback that keeps breaking flexplates. I am convinced it is internal to the engine but only after I stupidly installed a new transmission and rear engine cover thinking there's no way a shortblock with only 50k miles on it, that was fine the whole time, suddenly is blowing the centers out of flexplates. Now what are the odds that the construction company who also owns a 6.4L F-550 is having the same issue?! They are also experiencing repeat flexplate failure in their truck. The kicker is the engine and transmission have both been replaced in the last 7k miles. A quick summary. The 08 F-550 rollback has a 50k mile ESB, reman transmission and breaks flexplates every 200-300 miles starting about 1000 miles ago. I did all the work on it. The ESB is out of warranty by 6 months The 08 F-550 construction truck has a 7k mile 6007 complete engine, reman trans 2k miles ago and breaks flexplates every 2000-3000 miles and has done this since the reman engine was installed. They did all the work on it. The 6007 is in warranty but I have never laid eyes on the truck yet. My GM is in an absolute uproar, mainly about the construction truck. You cannot use logic and reason to talk to this guy because he will verbally beat you into a pulp. That is the way he is and the way he always will be. He's convinced faulty shortblocks are to blame and rather than attempting diagnosis he wants to bypass steps and get the construction company a brand new 6007 and have them install it down at their shop forgoing any labor the service dept could have possibly made. Now mind you I have never seen this truck yet but somehow we have a repair order on it and I have submitted a hotline with all the info he provided me. After that he gets hotline on the phone and in my sheer terror basically screamed at the service engineer the whole time. Then he calls our FSE and ripped him a new one. Then he calls our service rep and does same thing.... This went on over and over until they finally sent an FSE down. At this point I'm ready to pack my bags over a truck I haven't seen since it went out of powertrain. FSE came down here and I was steaming mad at this point. Since the rollback runs and moves we stuck a vibration analyzer on it and verified that there is something wrong internal to the engine. I say it's a bad bearing, he says its a balance issue. Whatever it is it won't be covered by warranty. Fine, I figured that was the case before he came. We know the rollback is an engine issue but what about the construction truck? It's sitting down their yard with a blown out flexplate, can't exactly get a EVA on a non running engine. Well one thing leads to another, my GM sucks off the FSE and gets him to sign off on the construction truck as an engine vibration felt at 1G and blah blah blah everyone agrees the shortblock will be covered under warranty. There's no way these asshat mechanics have the ability to shortblock a 6.4 so my GM goes back into an uproar. They bought a complete engine and they want another one! Some how some fucking way my boss gets involved and gets Ford to sign off on a complete engine replacement under warranty! I offered numerous times to take on the shortblock job and could have easily had it done last week because you know, it's crucial to have this truck back on the road. So the news to me on my desk Monday morning is they're getting the complete.....BUT there's one stipulation. I have to install it. The mechanics at the construction company aren't happy because now I get to see their hackery in first person and cab off a truck that they had no business even attempting the first time. I'm not busy right now thankfully so I've been screwing with this job on and off for a few days now and got the engine out today. Much to my fucking surprise when I yank the engine, swing it over into the light and see a rear cover alignment dowel pin that is very noticeably bent off center. Bent enough to make the bellhousing bolt tight all the way out which I thought was a little weird during removal. What's the one thing that they always tell you to check when you have a flexplate fail? Don't tell me tell that to the mechanics down the road. I honestly don't know what is going to become of all of this mess. My GM pissed off a lot of people at Ford over this engine and if they call it back it's going to be extremely obvious nothing is wrong with it. We shall see.

An early 05 excursion used a carryover 04 engine. It had all the same engine components as an 04 pickup or e-series would come with. Swash plate HPOP, EGR throttle plate and the early 03-04 EGR valve. An 05 F or E series does not have a throttle plate. These excursions simply got the leftover engines.

Very strange. How about the wiring loom above the turbo that contains the MAP wiring? It does honestly sound like an EGR issue but not sure how that's possible. I do know you can remove the throttle plate without removing the housing or unplugging it electronically. Be very careful not to drop the screws into the intake. Maybe the plate is not operating correctly and just isn't setting a code?

05 excursion with an 04 engine? Any chance this thing somehow got the wrong calibration?

I've been lucky and never seen that code by itself, it's always coupled with other air management DTCs which leads me to believe there are other things that can set it besides the MAP, BARO or PCM. The pinpoint test is a joke. I have had a rash of bad VGT solenoids lately causing all kinds of weird concerns. Got a spare you can try?

That could definitely happen if the turbine seal is leaking slightly. You could get enough of a leak after a cold soak to cause smoke on startup. The new style drain tube has the potential to alleviate some of the turbine seal leakage too. Oil will travel the path of least resistance obviously.

I had that once on an 04 6.0 I did headgaskets on. Wouldn't start after I was done, found the IPR wiring bare underneath all the shielding. Just disturbed it enough to cause an issue.

That is what I was going to say but I couldn't remember for sure.

Here are some pics of the dual boost turbo I disassembled. The cage that holds the unison ring and vanes is a press fit. The vanes are similarly sized to the VT365 turbo I have. The unison ring however is much smaller. Same style dished center housing like 6.0s have. The compressor wheel is double sided which we all probably knew. This coupled with ball bearings instead of brass journal bushings is why the turbo spools up so fast. They are not good for much more than stock power levels though.

That's what I do, snap a pic with my phone and email it to myself, save the pic on a pc and upload it from there. Actually I do this for the whole shop most of the times. We're not that big so it isn't too inconvenient

ESP is a pain in the ass. I had a reductant pump not long ago covered under premium care. I literally took pics of all brand new parts, tested new DEF, sent it in and got approved almost right away.

Here's one I didn't think possible. Had a 6.7 pipeline truck in here today for some work. Jumped in it and noticed the message center said exhaust filter clogged, drive to clean. Fair enough, grab my IDS, check the DPF load pid and it's only 45%. Went right into regen and completed not even 10 miles later. Very weird but I thought nothing of it. The truck is here for some maintenance so while checking the air filter I found this. The MAF wire clip was wedged in the two halves of the air box allowing quite a bit of dust into the intake. MAF sensor skewed for sure causing regen issues. Cleaned the MAF and inlet duct, reset the tables and drove it again, DPF load pid dropped right down to almost nothing.

Is this one bore in question or multiple? If it is only one bore was it associated with the lifter that failed?

I'm taking apart a dual boost turbo and it has a crack in the same location. That hub appears to hold the vane posts and looks like it should just press right off. I can see a tiny unison ring under there too

Going back together with the F-550 dump with the failed fan drive bearings. Once the whole PTO bracket is out the fan drive unbolts from the rear. The unit has a snap ring holding the pulley shaft in, pressed that out easily with a bearing splitter holding the hub. Then the bearings have their own snap ring holding them in the hub. The bearings I took out looked about the same as the ones I put in. 3 of them all stacked on top of each other. All 3 originals felt pretty bad.

Nope, bone stock. Nothing wrong with the turbo other than the center housing leaking. Exhaust manifolds were done at another dealer. I think I am going to crack this one open and have a look inside.

Changed a dual boost turbo in a 2012 6.7 today. Customer complaining of an exhaust smell in the cab. It's been a long time since I had one of these out.

I still have been heating the manifold on every one. I could have easily broken every single one since this thread started. It seems like absolutely none of these will budge but a little heat and they come right out. Last week I got in a little hurry and snapped one off that was halfway out, it left me with enough bolt to grab it with an extractor. Once the manifold was warmed up again the rest came out effortlessly.