Matt Saunoras

Yeah the right side needs shimmed but that will never happen. If I don't start seeing some progress being made with a new building I'm going to have to get out. I say it all the time and I'd rather not leave but I get closer every day...I really can't take much more of this.

Yeah, it's not the connector though, the sensor corrodes from the moisture in the air and gets high resistance internally. I've changed my share, you can have the rest

Yeah I did find your post about ohming out the high speed can wires. Mine did show 60 ohms like hotline told you. I didn't get much further than that before I found the ground issue.

Wow that's rough. I got mine today which was a product of human error, it took a good 2-3 hours to understand what was going on. From the start, no key on, no instrument cluster power up, headlights stayed on all the time (quickly killing the battery) and most importantly NO lights on the VCM and no communication with any modules. All fuses double and triple checked okay. I had 12v at the DLC but I found out of the 2 grounds at the connector only one was good. Pin 5 ground 201 was open. When I applied a good ground to that wire at the DLC the vehicle came to life. What I came to find out when I pulled the ACM out was when the trucking company was installing a two-way radio they drilled down through the top of the instrument panel and right through one little 20 gauge wire (rendering the vehicle useless). Repaired the wire and all is good.

partial cab lift? I did the last pump that way (without removing the turbos either), it was hell on my back but it got done sorry I missed that you have the trans out. we can't lift heavier trucks so trans removal is out of the question

I had one of these a while ago I posted pics of the main engine harness smashed between the compressor bracket and right cylinder head. The end result was a TACM wire shorting out on the head causing a DTC and on one instance blew the cold side cac tube to pieces. I couldn't dupicate the short but I found it when I pulled the harness open

what did you find out on the F-450? got a 2011 F-250 gasser that is doing the same thing. Haven't found anything obvious

Pull the dash and shove your head against the windshield looking downwards in the center of the car near the firewall and you'll see it I just carefully set the instrument panel on the seats, reach a pair of hemostat pliers down and twist it counterclockwise to remove. A small pocket screwdriver will make short work of the connector Index the steering wheel intermediate shaft with a paint mark, there is no master spline

I always power up the pump and pre-bleed the fuel system. Haven't had one leak yet thankfully. Those fuel lines worry me every time though also another thing to note is make sure the fittings on the pump don't come loose either. I always check those too before the lines go on.

Does anyone know what the core charge is on half shells through international?

part number for an international half shell? Every once in a while a half shell shows up on ebay for what seems to be dirt cheap. I always suspected it had to be an international part.

I've been saying it for a year! The technique is unbeatable. I got a broken bolt out of the back of an 03 6.0 turbo AFTER the customer tried to burn it out with an acetelyne torch. it was pretty much a recessed molten glob in that hole and it came out. I'm not going to deny it takes time. As long as I never have to drill another stud I'm fine with it.

Still batting 1000 with the MIG. Man I am getting cocky about it too. I'll burn the heads off or hit the rounded nuts with an air chisel to loosen them up and change the shape a little so maybe a twist socket will grab it. Once there is nothing but studs left I use one of 2 options. If there's enough stud sticking out I'll heat it red hot, let the heat sink a little then grab it with a stud socket. If it breaks off (or is already broken off) flush then I will build the stud up with a weld and hammer a 1/4 or 5/16 twist socket over the warm soft metal. Let it cool a little and crank it out.

It was just an injector. Some how, some way. Pulled the valve cover this morning, all the rockers, bridges and springs looked fine from what I could tell, cranked the engine while watching valvetrain movement, nothing unusual. Found a couple "extra" o-ring kits laying around and swapped #2 and #4 injectors. The skip moved to #4, put an injector in it and all is well so far. I told parts at 10am this morning to get me an injector for this truck because it has to leave in the morning. I had it in my hands at 4:30 on the nose. There are two 6.0 cooler jobs for me sitting outside that couldn't come in because there's no fucking room.

I really hope it is that simple. I know you've run across that a lot Keith. The oil in this engine was sludged up really bad but it also had some coolant in it from the cooler failure. No front cover cavitation I checked today before it went back together. I wasn't positive if the coolant in the oil was the cause of the sludge or if it's a general lack of maintenance. I was told it had an ESB and one head put in it 30k ago. Don't know which head or the nature of the original failure.

I've been through about 3 streamlight stylus pro lights. No idea they had any kind of warranty. It always seems like the switch goes bad.

Damn it, that 6.4 gave me no indication that it had ever been hydrolocked. I ran relative compression before I even started because it had a #2 contribution code in it initially. All were 100% and no weird sounds cranking. I get it all done today start it up and it's got a slight skip to #2. Fuel trims for #2 go to 19 and cancelling the inj compensators causes a 20rpm drop on that cylinder. I pulled the glowplugs on that bank and did a manual test. All cylinders 320 PSI. So I don't know what now, I guess I need to pull the cover tomorrow and have a look at the valvetrain What are the chances I don't have a bent rod? I have a feeling I'm screwed.

Good idea about barring it over. I do have the fan and stator out so that won't be a problem. I also had to change that crankcase vent hose that runs down the front of the block. The old one had a hole in it causing one hell of an oil leak underneath.

Think it would be wise to pull the glowplugs and give this thing a few cranks before firing it up after a repair like this? When I seperated the coolers today it dumped about a half gallon of coolant out from the exhaust side.

For one the customer drove it in and parked it on the other side of the building one story down. 10 people couldn't have pushed it up the hill to the service lane. On top of that you have to make a hard 180 after climbing the hill to get in the shop. Even if I strapped it to my truck and towed it up I wouldn't have been able to make the swing. Then after it's in the doors you have to make a hard left 90 degree turn forward into my bay. I can't make either swing in one shot with a dually. Not saying what I did was the right thing to do Keith, believe me, when this truck started bellowing white smoke on the way around the building I immediately shut it off, coasted backwards down the hill and parked it until I could think of anything in my power to get it in. I suppose I could have had it flatbedded 30 feet.

08 F450 with a rad leaking that took out a cooler. Didn't think I was gonna make it in the shop without bending a rod. Pulled the EGRT2 sensor out unplugged the valve and it geysered the whole way in. Behind it is the same 6.0 oil leak that I can't seem to locate for sure(cust is on vacation for 2 weeks). Now I know it's the oil cooler cover, just don't know why yet. It was sitting outside for a few days on an uphill slant and the damn thing left a puddle of oil on the parking lot. Went out an looked underneath, it's wet in the valley and running down the left rear corner of the engine. If it's leaking oil in the valley with the engine off it only stands to reason the cooler cover isn't sealed.

The hoist folks say it's from the floor being slanted, there is a 2" difference in post height from the top of the ceiling (that's assuming the ceiling is level). Plain and simple the building is falling over and my rack is sinking. There is a basement directly underneath and no support beam under the rack. I want them to install a plate but the words have fallen on deaf ears

This is my primary rack at work. The other one I have (ahem share) is in ground and not suitable for lifting trucks or cabs. That's assuming this one is any better off There is exactly 19" from post to door on each side, so the truck is dead centered in between the posts. Every single one goes up like this. If I favor the right side a little bit it's a little better but that usually entails getting out and folding a mirror in. Also the garage door to get out is 90 degrees perpendicular. The layout of the shop is absolutely retarded

yeah it is the intake gasket leaking. Still no idea if we'll get the okay on this job since it's been recently done before. This afternoon I welded up a cherry bomb on a malibu.

Got a 6.0 another shop (competing for dealer out of state) put a front cover, belt and tensioner on a few months ago. It is leaking oil/fuel profusely out of the front. So far I've found the FPR cover leaking fuel pretty badly, enough to soak the whole underside but also there's a front cover bolt missing right near the oil pressure regulator. I can see oil seeping out from behind the gasket. You'd have to get the balancer out of the way to reinstall the missing bolt. I'm thinking I'm going to reseal the entire front to cover my ass. I hope to god they didn't stretch out the bedplate gasket. I also found a little bit of oil in another interesting place. In the valley near the oil cooler cover it appears oil is blowing out from under the left side intake gasket(this leak only showed up after I fixed the FPR cover and road tested the truck), it runs down the head and into the valley. I've never seen this before and kind of wonder if my eyes are playing tricks on me.