Matt Saunoras

I blanked an 11 the other day trying to do a simple reprogram on the PCM. Somehow I got it back though It booted me out, no previous session in history, had to manually enter the vin, tear tag, axle size, tire size, options, etc to get it to go.

You'd be shocked at how many NAPA rotors we put on cars because NAPA is closer than running anywhere else for ford/motorcraft parts (our shop is out in the sticks). We're small and as a result we don't stock much. It's a shame but you can't care or it costs you time/money. I will never put a aftermarket oil filter on a truck but I'm guilty of putting on aftermarket 7.3 fuel filters(we don't stock a cap).

Did a couple shift solenoids in an 11 F350 gasser earlier today. Doing a oil dipstick and upper rad hose in a you know what right now. Trucks have been few and far between lately.

I still had the front ones spin on the one I did. heated them with butane and held them with my "special" bent wrench I don't even mess around with rear cage nuts either. I hold them with a 7/8s up top and gun em out.

Yeah all the ones I have measure the same inside diameter Was it on this site I read about guys having new cam slots machined nearly 180° into old unison rings? That may be something to think about considering all the rings layed to waste

I have a few rings laying around, one's an original 03, one's unknown and one is NIB. I may have to stick a caliper on these now

With all this oscillation talk on superduties this thread has me thinking about something else now, mainly the way ford has us checking superduty ball joints and track bar ball joints. How are you guys checking them? If you look at the way ford has you check a track bar balljoint (by pulling up and down on the track bar with your hand) how many are you ever going to find bad? By the time it gets that bad you're going to have serious handling problems. The only time I've ever seen movement (none is good) was with the wheels on the ground, steering wheel unlocked and an assistant lightly shaking the steering wheel while you watch what moves when it shouldn't. I always assumed the balljoints on my F-250 were good because a quick check of in and out play was none and I wasn't getting any kind of steering concerns/tire wear. What about up and down play, which ford doesn't have us measure? With my wheels 3" off the ground I had our other diesel tech jam a prybar under the tire and pry up off the ground so I could watch my balljoints. Every single one, upper and lower, had atleast .030" play. Ford says they're good, sitting on the bench every one is loose enough you could rattle it I thought my steering was good before. Now it's so much more tight over bumps I don't know what to think. If I replaced good balljoints then why the change?

My truck. Today it got all 4 balljoints, the entire drag link and a steering stabilizer put those new style axle dust seals in today too. they're pretty cool looking

Yes I do understand that less oxygen available reduces combustion temperatures but what I was getting at was the coolers purpose. The cooler itself doesn't reduce NOx emissions but it cools the fairly hot and large volume of inert gasses entering the intake

I thought an egr cooler was needed on a diesel due mainly to the inherently high EGTs. Introducting hot EGR into a system that needs to cool combustion to reduce NOx just doesn't make sense. I wonder if anyone has checked EGT with a pyrometer before and after installing a bulletproof cooler. That would tell you for sure how much less it effective it is at cooling EGR Is soot accumulation really more of a concern?

Okay, a little update. I replaced the box in my truck a few weeks ago with a reman unit. Everything is great, the new box is much tighter and doesn't leak at all, very satisified with the purchase. Honestly I wasn't confident in my ability to repair my leak. Then last week I looked at a 2010 F-250 gasser with the exact same leak. This one's warranty so it's getting a seal kit which I reluctantly installed today. Good news is it came out fine. R&R box, removed the sector shaft, replaced the necessary seals and claimed a little m-time for "polishing" the shaft. Meshload adjustment was straight forward and the steering feels the same way as it did. Now I can't help but wonder............should I have atleast attempted mine?

unbelievable, thanks for the picture!

The hole count in the nozzles are different too if I recall correctly. Obviously the spray pattern would be different and injector timing would be altered in the calibration. (wasn't the combustion chamber in 03 engines different too?) I believe I read somewhere about earlies having 5 holes and late having 7. I'm not positive about any of that info though This topic came up once before when we had a 2005 truck with an 03 engine installed that needed an injector. The end result was the cust didn't want the work done anyways so it was never resolved

I would probably go 2.0hrs plus 1.0 reprogram

The mountaineer I put the reman trans in (twice) came back on the hook again today It spit the overdrive servo right out of the case. customer found a half moon piece of the case and the snap ring laying in his driveway hmm..... do you think there may be a quality control problem with these things?

how about a utility knife/box cutter? if OEM has a slit then you would be far from a butcher by slicing the new ones especially considering the circumstances

I've been doing the same. Though I did have one leak after it was reattached. A hose clamp fixed that

that was the number that is tagged on a new ford harness I figured you couldn't get one through international. The one I bought came of the parts locator for 50% off

if it can help anyone out the part number I got on a new 05-07 ficm harness 1870895C91

This may be an old thread but the same situation is still going on everywhere. I really don't get this business yet

I'll go with half a million. seen more than a couple with 300k, not too spectacular I thought you were trying to trick us by not saying what trans but it's clearly an auto by the pics

pic 3, it's leaking oil out of that roundish square thing on the bottom

to clarify, I own a 6.0 I agree with this. No one gets perfectly clean water free fuel from anywhere, not to mention how can one even be sure you're buying clean fuel. There's no way to know at the pump Every time I pump fuel I wonder what's going in. I only use one station right now just because I've had good luck over the course of possibly 50 fill-ups now Call me crazy but I also smell the nozzle before I pump. You can't miss the presence of gasoline

That reminds me..........I need to go drain my contaminated fuel seperator

I gotta stop tearing apart these 6F35s with horse blinders on. I did the typical direct/OD replacement but I totally missed the intermediate was burned until I was going back together. Never saw that before, bottom of the one way was leopard spotted bad. If I remember I'll get a pic