Matt Saunoras

Not having fun getting used to the new WSMs. They're slowly converting the old manuals to the new format.

That was definitely a learning experience, very interesting to finally see a 6.0 in an econoline. All I did was slide the elbow out, unbolt that bracket and push it up slightly as I was removing the valve. Not as easy as I made sound but it wasn't bad. ....other than the fact it was in the low 30s this morning

Thanks for the info bruce. I know one of these will land on the doorstep one day because they've already tried to schedule them in! We're not allowed to service MD without being a selling dealer I'm told

I just did a p/s pump in one and I had to fully remove the a/c compressor to get the lower pump bolts out. They won't move out 1/2" with the compressor bolted up. Even if it could be done I honestly would not want to fight it. Once the lines are off the a/c compressor you can swing them out of the way and it totally opens up that side of the engine. With the compressor out there's plenty of room to just lay the pump anywhere out of the way.

Nothing in my bay but ahh.....well there's a 6.0 e-350 outside I put a ficm in and tomorrow I need to pull the EGR valve out and have a look see. Kinda cold outside this afternoon, it started off snowing and ended with a few sprinkles. Probably the same tomorrow. Also this is the first 6.0 e-series I've ever worked on, for what reason I can only guess...it's only about a foot higher than our doors

Yeah I've given up on them too, it's bad when you're first measure of diagnosis is to pull out the pressure gauge. The last one I long blocked was running 18psi at hot idle. That's the lowest I've seen, most are around 20-22psi. The mark LT from my first post is still out there. I did an oil change on it not too long ago, yep still making the valvetrain noise.

Keith you listed this part number as an 03 FICM harness in the thread I made 3C3Z-9D930-AA

recheck your metal in your fuel. I mean REALLY check it close. I had a internally failing pump totally burn me already doing the same symptoms.

Man I feel like such an asshole. I've been trying for an hour to fish that tube between the front cover and intake. It freaking goes on the outside

Man that heater tube is giving me serious problems right now. I've been messing with it for the last hour and I'm not leaving until I get it in. Just can't seem to figure it out.

guilty by association. I haven't heard words more true

I believe that design started in 05 when the 2.0 lost the timing belt and got a chain instead. I rememeber vaguely that you had to install the cam holding tool and timing peg. Then position the pulley with the hole at the bottom so you could thread a bolt through that would line up with a hole in the timing cover.

I had a customer jump me in the shop pretty recently claiming whoever changed the battery messed up all the instrumentation in his 06 mountaineer. It was pretty clear he had no idea how to use the message center, so I got in the vehicle to reset everything and his wife sitting in the passenger seat even started bitching at me. After changing the odometer back to miles, redisplaying the external temp on the climate control head and reseting his oil life monitor all seemed well. What really pissed me off was the instant accusation that I must have been the one that messed it all up. (I didn't put the battery in or change the oil) grrrr. I won't forget this customer.

yeah SSM 22040 acknowledges this and gives a part number for the pigtail incase it's damaged too. I haven't run across a leaking switch yet though.

Damn it. I cracked that fucking plastic coolant tube that runs under the intake trying to get the new front cover on. The old one came out the front but I have no idea if a new one will go in the same way. I know ordinarily you'd have to pull the intake to get it. These damn 6.4s can be tough, rather than being almost done I'm probably gonna have to wait until tuesday for that tube to come in before I can begin to reassemble. The front cover I received is the new design edit - never mind, the WSM does not show intake removal as being necessary to get this tube in and out. phew, that's a relief. It should go in the same way I got it out

January was a terrible month, I only had one 40hr week. So happy to be flat rate but I shouldn't complain, I do get a 30hr guarantee which is more than any other dealership in the area is willing to provide. Right now got a 08 F550 flatbed wrecker with a coolant leak. The lower hose is definitely leaking but there was coolant coming down off the crank pulley too. Pulled the water pump and the cover is starting to cavitate as I suspected but it's also worn out in the area right where the pump seals. Can't say I've seen that until now. This truck only has 43k miles on it. I'm going in tomorrow to get going on this thing, I'm interested to see if the new front cover is the same updated part like that ESB had.

yeah, I did them last year. This thing isn't going to last too much longer, the core support is nearly gone

96 F-250, drag link, LF inner tierod, rear brake lines from the rabs back, parking brake cables, wheel cylinders....and I still have to look at the inop A/C This thing is a rust pile, it's jobs like this that make me wish I was hourly

This is the 32mm 3/8 drive GM oil filter socket but I've found it works great for removing the lower fuel filter on a 6.7. It's really shallow and the fitment is perfect also, it'll break the nut long before you round it off. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?...re&tool=all Obviously not necessary but a must have for any tool junky. There are a couple on ebay right now. I was using an axle nut socket but this is much better.

yeah lincoln LS's are very bad for RFI. COPs and heater control valves mostly, they do some weird stuff

A coil fixed the windstar and a long block fixed the F250 I suspect the windstar was actually misfiring and powerbalance wasn't picking it up. Either that or RFI but I've never seen a coil pack cause RFI The F-250 was losing oil pressure only when really hot and the vct retardation must have been causing the miss. It would only start to miss when put into gear

Man I could rant forever on this subject. I don't think it would do anyone here any good though so I'll save it. Lets just say it's quite discouraging for anyone trying to get into this business

Just throwing this out there.....did you remember the crank sensor pickup ring? it's behind the flexplate.

Another thing, the new oil cooler no longer has an inner nut that requires pan removal.