HeuiTim

Well Keith I quess Fram won't be advertising on this site! I have heard several problems with Fram, just didn't think it was that bad. I used to supply my customers with Motorcraft on their 7.3's. I used to sell a lot of Baldwin's also. I usually run the real cheapies in my own stuff, but their made by Purolator. I have never had a filter fail, so cant say.

Jim, any idea which brands are 'A' and 'B'?. I'm curious if its a cheapy or something like a Fram? Tim

Cheapo Code Reader $39, Carquest Wells vented DPFE $27, help from people who know what they are talking about, priceless. Dad took off old one, full of moisture, was mounted next to coil.

I have the little Streamlight pen light with the blue led. I am on my second one. The work good, only problem is they can make it all the way down into the oil pan from the top. But I found out they fit through oil pan drains and are very oil proof, light was still on by the time I retreived it. Someone needed it more than me(or I left it somewhere, I like to blame everyone else first)I have had better luck with my new bright blue one, shows up better than my black one.

According to 6.4 Movie, oil changes needed in 200 hr. interval so your customers that idle all day like our field guys, means oil changes every 4-5 weeks!!! Hows that for cost of operation.

Dwayne, did the balancer look like the one in this video, during lubrication section? 6.4 Movie

Just to be stupid, mainly because Im good at it, are these treasures still Heui or have they gone to a common rail pump? ie 5000psi vs 30K psi? early build c7's had common rail pumps causing fuel dilution. I agree that if the strategy is using engines injectors to regen combined with owner who is operating at high % no load time, fuel dilution is possible. Do they use a dedicated ignition source or relying on fire blowing out of cylinders THROUGH TURBO?? to dpf? *Update* I answered my own questions and got a 87 on the 6.4 test first time. Sounds like International is still using Cat fuel system, the same but different. But the first stage turbo is getting all the fire during a regen?

Holy responses batman, robin has a hard-on. Dad stuck a hose on egr valve and with engine running, he could stall it by sucking on it. So he ruled out the mechanical part as far as passages and the valve it self. It takes a bit of driving to set the code after he gas cleared it. Mom chimed in that it sometimes will trailer hitch at about 40mph which I assume is ecm commanding to much egr due to bad signal from said DPFE. I will have him repeat his test with a volt meter and do a KOEO check. Must be same sensor supplier CAT uses. You guys divide the .4 among'st your selves.

So I am intently studying a piston crown from one of my C9 buses, trying to figure out why and how the top ring land width has grown large enough to fit to rings in it and still run ok when a customer walks in and starts asking me about a 3126 no start. Runs on starting fluid, pulled the "fuel solenoid" wire off, you know the 2 pin connector near the fuel filter base? I tried to check for voltage My first question: Is this an electronic 3126? Yes Me: It does not have a fuel solenoid. Oh Hopefully I convinced him to tow it in, before he does anymore diagnostics. I am sure he is a fine mechanic, but people have no idea how these systems work and try to apply what they know. "Its not getting fuel" is a common statement we hear. Trying to explain the high pressure oil system to them is /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif I listed the possibilities, timing sensor, heui pump, ecm power, explaining that you need to see what the ecm is telling us. I felt bad kind of blowing him off so I told him to check the 2 ecm power feeds from the batteries. Of course I forgot to ask him what noises he hears when he turn the key on. I do better with hands sometimes than with cranium. I automatically always expect to hear injectors cycle, you notice when they dont.

01 Sable, mom's car, has a code for percentage or flow below normal? I honestly don't remember what dad said. Whats common with these, you guys are the experts. Car runs fine. I think it has under 30K. I know my 'scorts have the feedback sensor that measures differential pressure(big guess) that is tied into egr. Anyone feel FREE to chime in.

Jim I think their ignoring us

what does it have for an engine? What kind of hybrid? Their Website This One

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/poke.gif Lets just say I have heard some interesting things about them. Like when the Cat hotline guys hears where they are calling from it is usually followed by a loud sigh. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

I see us CAT guys agree, I would not recommend ELC to anyone. I think the oems push it as a sales tool. and a parts sales tool because it destroys everything. I will always switch someone over if they ask. DEAC the purple stuff (old Green that dogs dont like) is the best stuff. If you read what ELC requires for maint, deac lasts just as long. If you sample and keep a filter on it, it usually outlasts the engine anyway. I have seen weird spacer plate weeping, cavitaion, erosion, eaten seals. I learned from one of our field guys to run Cats Natrual gas coolant which is premixed deac with dionized water. The 3412's with elc are constantly eating injector cups and seals. Something going on with the jacket water heaters and elc. It makes a battery or something. Deac eliminates the problem. The long life coolant does not mean long life engines. C13 and C15 precoolers in Internationals factory fill make red candle wax, plugs aftercooler makes big mess. For a long time cat wanted coolant samples on new c15 engines with water pump failures, they were running elc, that should tell you they know something is going on.

All I will say is the bennies are good. Although I dont expect to see my pension or retirement age, because I read alot of books and lets just say there is nothing new under the sun. IAM dues are based on wages not retirement, so there is only interest in raising wages. If you think universal health care is a good idea, join a union, I am looking to move to a right to work state. I also see frustration with in management because they have to hold others back or lay off people that work hard for them. Unions were lawed into effect to get shit done. Companies bitch about unions but they are just playing the game, its just like rooting for your favorite team, one side against the other. Its you vs. the company. The company has a contract work force, a fixed stable exspense that makes growth forecasting much more accurate. If the companies didnt always have the upper hand unions would not exist. Good worker bees making the honey. I do not agree and it is likely why I am left alone, I produce, I dont stand at the time clock, I dont sweat giving them 15-30 min's of my time. It all works out, doing the minimum gets you the same. In return they dont mess with me. If you work to make your company make money the owners care about that. Piss poor managers exist everywhere so I dont waste time with them. Managers are in that job because they cant do mine, and they cant do the owners. Go to the top and get noticed. If that does not pan out find the place where it will. You do not need to pay dues to collectively bargain. If you band together as a group and meet on your own time with them in a professional manner out of the shop and discuss, dont make it personal, the issues. They will share with you what is on their plate. If they dont you dont have to work there. I grew up in a very strong union household, been in two different ones myself, you will always make more money with out them "working for the good of the group" Our parts guys got their asses handed them (different union) during the last contract. Everybody will always say they voted no after the vote, but they always pass with huge majorities. If I sound bitter, you are correct, used them one time and destroyed my relationship with the big man, still recovering from that, all because they wanted to show the company that they had control of their members. It was all over the interpatation of contract language (pay). I should have just dealt with him one on one as I always had. A mistake not to be made again. If any of you guys would like to dicuss what you should ask for privately I can help steer you in the right direction. Attitude is the deal maker and breaker.

Do you guys have the ability to cut out individual cylinders? I know nothing about these engines, is there an external fuel return out of the cylinder head? If answers are yes, connect a sight glass in the return line and verify air in fuel, put one on the inlet to make sure it isnt getting air from fuel supply side, then cut out each cylinder one at a time starting with the injector closest to the return. When air changes you found the source. Usually works on running engines, but will work cranking if batteries are up to it. But not knowing how your engines are plumbed i'll shut up.

Your engines talk to you too, thank god I thought it was the voices in my head /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer2.gif Bigger diesels dont run very long when a jet is not working, things tend to expand quite a bit without the oil pulling heat out of the piston. Even a bent one has caused problems over the long term.

but thats why they use C---NORMAL---H. I am surprised it didn't catch on fire!

Cats like to break off flush or below flush with the head, Had my boss buy wire for purpose, Most of you are using an ER-70S wire in your mig welders, strong but hard. Try a spool of ER-80S next time, it is very tough, and you can still drill it when all else fails. Cat's C15 Accert turbo mounting studs were popping off on a regular basis until they finally changed the material. Cat thought it would be a good idea to recess the thread 1/2" to allow movemnet of the stud from expansion. Of course the stud snaps off flush with the thread. I used this wire to build the stud 1/2" longer to bring it above the surface and weld a nut on it. saved the manifold section and did not have to remove it from engine. Needless to say I get the "fun" jobs. I just hijacked my own thread! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

Keith, That should be a shop tool, not something you should have to buy. We have a required tool list, anything above 1/2" is usually considered a specialty tool. We are supplied with 3/4 and 1" guns, even 3/4" torque wrenches(I have my own). I bet rotunda has multipliers in their catalog. http://www.geartronics.com/x4home.htm Cheaper than I thought, Landmesser sells them for around $ 220 but I still consider it a specialty tool.

I wish I could ship some of 'em off

What you guys not working on these things anymore? We have had a steady stream of F650's in the shop in the last 2 weeks, thank god because the brooms were starting to wear out, but they still kind of suck if you have to anything on the back of the head, like the normally changed fp regulator. I think we are getting most of the work from area Ford dealers. Keith, you could answer this, unless the dealership is certified on the Cat engine your not allowed to do much under the valve cover. Thats how it was explained to me anyway. There are different levels of Cat cert? Anyway ask some questions, it will make me feel smart, and look stupid.

I will have to see, who knows if he kept the paperwork, he's not one to complain, just wont send them any business.

Thanks for the quick response guys, I'll pass it on to him. Tim