YukonTyler

2008 6.4, 50 000 km, oil changes every 6 000 km and fuel filters every 12 000 km. I am a gas tech and don't really play with diesels.

I don't drive my 6.4 too often - I commute with a little Toyota. The last couple times I cold start it has been very cold (-35) and I have found a wandering idle until it starts to get up to temp.

At operating temp I have started to hear a slight noise - it sounds like a very soft fuel knock when under load. With engine speed up but no throttle (downhill) I do not have the slight knock. No knock at idle.

Today was warm so no misfire @ start up, but I brought it to the shop to scan. No check engine light.

P0266 CMDTC, low contribution #2 - shows @ fuel temp of -1, ambient temp of -36, run time of 5 minutes

Power balance is smooth. No misfire at operating temp. No black smoke (DPF delete running @ stock power levels). Oil level is holding at normal after 5000 km on this change. Short term trims are all either 0 or +1 except for #2 which is @ ~12 to 13.

Diesel techs here say it needs an injector. Seems pretty logical to me. If this thing is dropping extra fuel I am going to pull my glow plug and have a look at that, too. I will also look at rockers while I have the valve cover off.

Anything else I should be doing here? I would much prefer to catch issues like this early instead of getting into the business of melting pistons.

Save for an antique alignment rack and one 20 000 lb Rotary, our entire store is Rotary 15 000 lb symmetrical 2-posts. Only once in the last two years have I not been able to lift something, and even then it was a truck that I had no business lifting. They do the job.

'04 Freestar .... steering rack and the gear-to-cooler return line.

On the lift before it was the high pressure hydroboost line on a 6.7. Before that was a gear-to-cooler line on an '06 F150. Coming up next is another rack on an '01 Focus.

My bay is a sea of red. These are all the remnants of the last cold snap.

I was in Iceland for Christmas two years ago. The sun was rising at about 11:00, sets at about 3:30. The weird thing is it never gets too cold with temps around the freezing point day and night. I am used to it being bitchin cold at night in winter, so it took some getting used to being outside in the dark and not freezing to death. The sun is barely above the horizon at that time of year, so the way the light shone on the lavafields was quite interesting. I would go back there in a minute.

Reykjavic has been on my short list for a long time ... I'd love to get over there one of these days.

We sound similar to them these days. The jet stream moved further north and gave us a nice shot of southern air. Woke up to -2 this morning and lots of fresh snow. It's a nice reprieve from the blasts.

The sun is a bit of a downer at these times. No windows in our shop, so if I'm stuck on a longer job like today then there's a good chance I don't see it. Sun rises around 10:45 or so, but it doesn't get over the mountains 'til noon. Then it's gone past the mountains by 1:30 and it's dark again by 3:30.

Our store is usually Motorcraft 10W-30 in the warmer half of the year and Delvac 5W-40 during the brisk part. We do not have any odd issues with consumption.

I use the Delvac year round in my 6.4 .... we pay somewhere around $23/jug. It's not enough of a price savings for me to warrant switching between the synthetic and the Motorcraft seasonally. 6000 km intervals

-Quick-start glow plugs that enable smooth and fast startups at temperatures down to 25 degrees F

 

 

I guess it is made in Africa

Is this the same as using 6v glow plugs like on the six nine? Cos those never went bad ...

i've driven this truck all day today and so far so good.

the missing cover on the PSCM fuse is suspicious. inspection of the heavy gauge wire to the PSCM shows good. unless the PSCM causes this fuse to blow in the next couple days i'm pushing this retail .... fuses don't just lose their inspection covers all by themselves.

They don't make nostalgia like they used to

Short version

125a fuse on the battery post for the PSCM. Common to blow? Do they blow 'cos of the rack or from something silly like boosting (improperly)?

Long version

Had one of these towed in for no electric power steering assist. I hopped in and fired it up and the steering worked like a charm.

I drove the truck for a couple days hoping that it would bugger up. No such luck and back to its owner it went.

It came back yesterday for the same concern and this time it was actually screwing up. U0131 in the ABS and IP modules telling no communication with the PSCM. Sure enough PSCM fails the network test.

Easy enough at this point - let's check power and grounds and then network wiring if need be. Check the 5 amp fuse for the PSCM @ #52 in the BJB - all good. The other power is via the 125 amp mega fuse on the B+ terminal, right beside the main power feed for the rest of the truck.

I pulled back the red plastic B+ cover and found the clear inspection cover for the 125 amp fuse missing. The fuse solder/element was melted but still partially in place. It was not providing enough contact at this time to power the PSCM but I can see it hitting once in a while and allowing for intermittent operation.

Do these things blow often? Is it a result of trying to boost from the PSCM power lead and then having the power go through the 125 A fuse, through the B+ terminal and then out via the main fuse? Or do these blow cos of the PSCM?

I like where the forecast lists "Condition: Not Observed" Does that mean it's to cold to go outside to look?

darn rights

It has been like this for a week ... glad i don't have to drive my 6.4 daily when drops down to these temps. That said, 2 battery pads, a 125w oil pan heater, the block heater and 5/40 Delvac and she'll fire right up : )

-40 this morning out at the homestead - that magical line where it doesn't matter if that's in celsius or farenheit. it's brisk outside.

today has brought me all kinds of ice cubes ...

- couple frozen batteries on an old 7.3

- snapped 4x vacuum harness and a frozen 4x solenoid on a 1/2 ton

- 09 F150 for no heat from the driver's side. passenger side blend works but not so much on the left side. this is the fun one where you have to take out the floor vent from the bottom of the plenum in order to get the l/front blend actuator. shoot me now.

can't wait to see what the afternoon brings

Message popped up in broadcast messages regarding reprogramming 6L issues with VCM II. Advised to use VCM I till the issue is resolved.

Yup - saw that come across at the start of this week. It came a week or so after another tech fried the PCM on a 6.0. Not sure how that situation got resolved but I'm willing to bet it involved the customer purchasing a new module.

That same scenario is what makes me nervous to update my own out-of-warranty 6.4 ...

another tech at my store had a 6.7 cab + chassis with a big cube on the back shear the crank .... major main and rod bearing damage in the middle and then the crank just said 'no more'. i remember it was up to date on maintenance and hadn't idled its whole life.

the other couple that screwed up were bad valves on the left side from a pair of early build units. don't think they were locked up though, just dead holes

That's a downer Mike .... I gave you my info there on ProTech and it's definitely what worked for me. That being said, prior to trying the plugged in and restart route I did get rid of AVG and any other virus software. Supposedly the protective software is a big no no.

Hope you can sort it out. The day my VCMII came I spent about 5 hours getting the thing up and running. It was not a good day.

Seen that a few times at Subaru/Kia before making the switch to Ford. There were a couple instances in which Kia customers made it to the dealership for servicing on their Sorento only to be dead in the water. It was good for a chuckle.

Kinda .... some are sold from Kingland either in Yellowknife or Hay River. Others have been sold in Whitehorse and then travel up to places like Inukiv or Ft McPherson. When I say polar bear plates I generally mean trucks registered in the NWT.

I'm sure there are some really nice, clean units in Hay River and Yellowknife. The problem is that if they make it to me in Whitehorse it means they've driven either the Liard Trail or the Dempster Hwy to get here. These "highways" destroy trucks all day long.

four! four? rear diffs. all this week.

- '10 F150 (polar bear plates) 9.75 posi. came in with the prop shaft in the bed, half of the rear pinion still on the u-joint flange. pumpkin cracked open, box of marbles inside. parts on order and somehow got prior approval

- 05 F250 full floating with hooped pinion bearing. done and kicked out today

- '10 F150 (polar bear plates) 9.75 posi. rear pinion has a good 1/4" of slop at the u-joint. parts on order

- 06 F150 9.75 posi. rear pinion bearing toast. inherited this from another tech on vacation. got 'er done and kicked out today - new bearings and cups on the pinion and sides. new frictions.

Alex, considered that myself. Have spoke to a couple dealers in Alberta in the past. I was just in Whitehorse for 9 days visiting my sister... very tempting !

Didn't even stop to say hi?

ha

Hope that you liked it up here!

might not be the exact same on this application, but i did this on my 6.9 just a couple months ago. when i rebuilt the T19 the slave blew from overextension up on removal - for replacement i ordered a new master and slave.

i put both parts together on the bench and i purged it there, too. let gravity help you - slave and bleeder up in the air and the master below it.

if you can sneak out the line and the master and then install as one assy then maybe this will save some headaches.

Had one of these on Thursday. Drilling truck was trailered in with 105 000 km on the clock and an original secondary filter (triple pipe not dual) that shooting fuel like a geyser at key on.

Did both filters. Got the primary screwed back all the way - right against the 'stop' and where the wiring pigtail will just perfectly line up with the sensor away from the framerail.

Cycled 6 times for 30 seconds each before cranking. Was good - no noise. Hauled it out and it started to whine in the parking lot. Another 6 or 7 key cycles before the next start killed the whine.

I'm the first to admit when I'm wrong. I screwed this one up. The oil came off the gun to spec and I assumed that the engine was dry. I suddenly feel like an apprentice again.

Glad I got to the bottom of it, but I'm bummed that it took me as long as it did. This one will show up at the end of the month when I'm down a chunk of time. Lesson learned.

Yup Vulcan reman. I think I just got burned big time. Spent a lot of time (8 hours) chasing those lean codes, playing with fuel samples, dropping the exhaust, vacuum testing, smoke testing etc etc etc ...

Odd one here. Have a 6.8 that came in a week ago with no oil pressure & knocking all over the place. Pulled the engine and the pan - shavings everywhere and 4 rod bearings hooped. Long block time.

Long block came assembled sans oil cooler and filter. Filter was on the cooler, which was in its own bag zip tied to the valley.

Took the filter off and installed the cooler assy. Installed the engine and then put the oil filter in afterward. Everything clears easier this way. I then filled the engine with oil and gave 'er a shot.

Decent power but had a rough idle. Couldn't find anything obvious - no missed connectors or vacuum leaks (smoke test). Drove for a couple days and came up with P0171 and 174. Also had a blue puff on startup out of the tailpipe. Freeze frame shows codes set @ idle, 39 psi in the rail. Checked again for vacuum leaks with smoke and propane. None found.

Checked fuel quality and pressure. All good out of the tank before the filter. Sample out of the filter was nasty brown. Let the sample settle and got a bunch of sediment. I figure that explains my lean code? Possibly? New fuel filter put my long term trims at idle down to -3% from beign pegged @ 25%. Short trims bounce from 0-4% and had prior been at 30%.

Still have a junk idle. Good power though @ the high end. Checked oil and way overfull. FRP pid drops after being primed by a key on cycle. Does not pass IDS leakdown test. Pulled the rail and primed the rail. No leaks visible out of the injectors but pressure still drops slowly. Possibly back into the tank via the pump I suppose. No long crank to start. But why high oil????

Drained the pan and pulled out 12 litres. Truck takes ~7. Put in 7 litres of fresh 5w20 and she idles like a dream. Did I double fill right off the bat? Would a long block with no oil cooler attached comes with oil in it?

Driving it right now to see if she builds oil again.

I've done a lot of diffs lately it seems (after coming over from Subaru and never touching them). Last one was clutch packs in an '09 1/2 ton with the small diff. Printed WSM instructions came in the kit and order du jour was 15 minutes in fric mod prior to install and then pitch it. When I fill it I put in a fresh tube.

Same story for the 1 ton I did the week prior.

If the frictions are being soaked in the stuff prior to install then I can't see it being harmful to have it slosh around in there. Cheap insurance in my eyes.