YukonTyler

Have a brand new Escape towed here for crank no start along with a complaint of runs rough when it does fire. 5000 km, hasn't even had its first service.

I found P0300, 316, 301, 304 and P130D. Putting the P130D (heavy knocking, forced low power) into oasis got me a couple phone calls from an engineer in Michigan 20 minutes after I got the car into my bay. That was a first.

I found the engine oil twice overfull and fuel diluted. With that I pulled the plugs and found them fuel fouled. I did a manual compression check while everything was apart and got a perfect 190-195 psi across all holes. New plugs and an oil change got it running quite well despite heavy smoke due to suspected fuel in the exhaust.

While it was up in the air I noted an engine oil leak from the high pressure fuel pump and exhaust cam sensor area. While waiting for parts it cold soaked for a couple days, and when fired up again to bring it back into the shop it ran like junk. Power balance shows dead misfires on 1 and 4. This makes sense given my initial codes. Swapping coils with the two firing cylinders shows no difference.

At this point I'm a little stumped. It ran well with new plugs and then after sitting it worsened. Right away I'm thinking a fuel related issue (injectors possibly leaking down), but the odds of two injectors leaking down at the same time does not sound likely to me. Then again I'm in gasoline land. I know you guys get your diesel HPFPs breaking down and sending metal through the system taking out injectors, so maybe this is a real possibility. 

Relative compression is perfect. I know it's not fool-proof, but I would think that if 1 or 2 holes are washed down then this test should show something,

I then start thinking about ignition. The firing order is 1-3-4-2 making 1 and 4 running mates. I'm curious if they may share an ignition driver in the PCM - seeing as how COP ignition will fire running mates at the same time (wasting spark) when engine speed is low and CMP signals are not yet viable.

On Monday I'll do an injector relative flow test to see if there's anything obviously wrong with the injectors, and if that goes well then I'll likely send a scope down to see if either 1 or 4 is leaking down. To try and pin down if it's the ignition side I'll backprobe in some noid lights to the COPs to see if the primary side is doing its job.

Any other great ideas?

- 2011 F350, dash is coming out for a binding mode door. no defrost.

- 2014 Escape 1.6. came in for crank no start at 5000 km, got it to run with plugs and an oil change (oil twice overfull and fuel diluted). driveability on this one is making me pull my hair out.

- 2014 E450, body builders made a mess of the service body electrical and it took out the non-serviceable park lamp relay in the SJB. getting a new fuse box and redoing the wiring

waiting on parts/in progress

- 09 Crown Vic waiting for a cluster, which is pulling down the SCP network

- 13 Escape for a tranny cooler coolant control solenoid, leaking antifreeze ... it should be a 10 minute fix, but Ford decided to mount this to the cooling fan plate with T10 torx screws set between the cooling fan plate and the rad. i pulled the front clip for access. not impressed.

- 12 F150 6R80, wonky with the overdrive clutch. i dislike transmissions.

kicked out today

- 10 Crown Vic with an open on the 12v feed to the vent solenoid, found the open in the harness near the bulkhead connector passing through the firewall

- 10 F250 with intermittent no power windows, found the main ground for the master window switch to have its pin split in half where the harness passes through the door to the body at the inline a-pillar connector

- i broke a 2008 GM 1500, ha ...... for certain in-house financed deals we install GPS units which have the ability to immobilize units when their owners default on payments. usually it is a simple job of wiring a power and ground, and then installing the relay in series with the start signal wire of the ign switch. this  gm's ign switch is all networked so no dice. decided instead to tap into the 12v start feed from the pcm to the start relay. bad idea. turns out it's a monitored circuit and the damn thing immobilized itself on my rack. had to call the gm tech from across the street with his tech2 or whatnot to get me going again. my little launch CReader wouldn't do a whole heck of a lot. oh well.

I have never replaced one preventatively. Conversely, most of that vintage are not in solid enough condition to make that particular job make financial sense. 

Matt, there is a line of zip ties that have the "Christmas tree" built onto them, I keep a bag in my toolbox all the time now, especially when working on 6.7s, and any new gas engines, like the ecoboost or the 5.0l. I cant remember the brand of them, but I will look tomorrow.

I get mine from the 13S12 kits

Wow I was unaware such a thing existed.  I almost never splice in a whole new connector for just the lock that usually breaks.  That's where having old harnesses has saved me in the past but I guarantee none of them have any coil connectors left.

Second that. I have never seen (or even thought to ask for) a connector sleeve instead of the full pigtail, and this is coming from a guy who probably bills three or four days worth of work every year just soldering in license plate bulb and 7-pin trailer tow pigtails ; )

When you pull up the connector view in the WSM wiring section they'll give you a list of available pigtails for a specific connector. I always look here because it takes me 30 seconds to get the part number compared to the 20 minutes it takes my parts, and in all that time I don't even recall seeing just the shell for any connector.

- 2011 Crown Vic for rear end bearings and clutch packs

- 2014 Fiesta, 5-speed, for second gear and synchros

- remote starters like it's going out of style (Christmas and all)

- 2012 F150 5.0 for no compression on #5 and #7, exhaust valves are shot, catalyst shot

Even with these prices people yearn to be liberated from their money. We just got a 'brand new' 2014 F350, 6.7, 4x4, platinum, lifted on 35s traded in with 16 000 km. It also has diesel care and prepaid. I can only imagine the kind of hit that was taken on that rig. Even financed over a long term you're still looking at ~$1500/month, plus the $15 000 or so hit taken the second it left the lot. You're talking around $30 000 for the privilege of driving a one ton for ~12 months. It boggles the mind.

Conversely, the wife and I do pretty darn good when it comes to bringing in a pay cheque and our yard holds a 2003 Sierra dually, a 2006 Rav4 and a 2009 Kia Rio. Not flashy, but no payments. Different priorities I suppose.

Not a huge help, but I can offer a bit of solidarity. We had a Super Duty in not too long ago for a steering box. We got a Motorcraft piece and found that the king spline was 180 degrees off compared to the original unit and what the pitman arm would accomodate. Ordered up a new gear and pitman arm and got the same thing. At that point my colleague opted to remove a spline by grinding in order to make a new master spline. In this case it worked out. Too bad that yours is such a big difference.

Gotchya. When you said motorsport my mind went to Ford Racing/SVT.

We sell Arctic Cat products, various campers as well as Lowe boats and Merc outboards. Thankfully I don't have to fool around with small engines unless it's one of my own.

What are you guys a motorsport store also?

Not sure if this was directed at me, but if so the answer's no. We're a regular Ford store, and due to the nature of our climate and economy I rarely touch anything smaller than a half ton. Lots and lots of pick 'em up trucks.

I have Ford certs for gas repair, brakes, climate, electrical, electronics, suspension. In the past 12 months I have seen both ends of the spectrum.

$17.50 straight time at Ford in Charlottetown, PEI. The door rate was $79. These were bad times. I got out of there right quick and went back out to the western part of the country.

Currently working, living and loving it in Peace River, Alberta. $45/flat rate + bonus (avg 700/month). Diesel guys get $46. We have more work than I know what to do with in an old, run down shop. The new shop is currently under construction across the street and is due for a March-ish opening at current pace. We're hiring.

- '12 F150 5.0 getting a right side head for bad intake valves and seats

- '13 Fiesta for DPS6 clutch

- '13 F350 somehow broke the brake line between the fuel tank and the frame rail. mud.

- '12 F150 blew the x-fer case rear output seal and drove it 'til there was nothing left inside

- '12 F150 so packed with mud that it seized the a/c compressor

- '12 Exped. she took it through the car wash when it was 20 below and then brought it to us for non-functioning power running boards. 

- 11 Ranger 4.0 for a bad catalyst and rear end clutch packs (don't see those too often)

- 11 F250 6.2 with more mud than I have ever seen in my life. $7800 worth of parts and labour for pads, rotors, calipers, e-brake cables, tires, wheels, tpm sensors, inner fenders, battery, charcoal canister and vent relocation kit, bulbs, lamp housings, pigtails, brake switch, diag time and mud removal time. originally came in on the hook for only a no start (mud blocking the shifter from moving fully into park). it's an impressive truck.

- 09 Crown Vic for a starter, rear trailing arms, rear brakes and a rear axle seal

- 12 Fiesta for DPS6 clutch

- 12 1/2 ton 6R80 torque converter (whining)

- my 09 Rio for sway bar bushings : ) sounds like the front end is going to fall out of it

- wife's 06 Rav4 for rear axle seals and replace r/rear seat belt (the dog is not in the good books)

mike, if you can get the cab off in an hour or so then i'd say it would be worth it to put it in the air. you know yourself that chains isn't a difficult job, it's more the fact that it's a pain leaning over the rad all day. worst part of the job is still the re and re of all the intake plumbing/cac tubes and prying off the seized on valve covers.

warranty time on the front cover is 8-ish, with another 0.3 to re and re the chains. leaving the cab on it's definitely an attainable labour time but it's hardly a get rich quick scheme.

my bay is a four post so no cab off for me. i'll start chains at 8 in the morning and have it wrapped up and running around 3 or 3:30. buddy a few stalls over yanks the body whenever given the chance and has them done an hour and a bit faster than me.

i'm yet to do one retail. i called one a month ago - told the guy 12 hours to do his leaking front cover as per book time - and he promptly asked me if i thought insurance would cover it. 2012 King Ranch with 120 000 km and the guy can't shell out to fix his $65 000+ pick em up truck.    

i know you said visual is good, but i've done more than a few exhaust manifolds on these. any whistle sounds from the turbocharger? black soot at the back near #3?

the other thing which comes to mind is timing chains. i've seen a couple with a stretched primary chain and a couple with weak tensioners on the secondary chains. i wonder if something is off just a hair. already mentioned, but power balance results?

the overfilled crankcase is another common point. these trucks seems susceptible to damaged catalysts as collateral damage. if you do discover this then i am hesitant to accept ford's gospel surrounding a new block heater and pcm programming. i seem to have stopped a few from building oil with new high pressure pumps.

Mine did nothing to the ABS module. Mine had intermittent network codes for lack of communication with the PSCM. They would set as the melted solder/element in the 125a fuse constantly lost and then regained continuity. On that one I re and re the fuse, cleared codes and sent it on its way with detailed instructions on how to boost start from the proper lug.

I have dealt with this before. Same blown 125a main fuse.

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/topic/4665-11-f150-electric-ps/

- 06 Lincoln 1/2 ton .... rear carrier & diff pin (locking bolt was broken inside), crown, pinion, bearings, clutch packs, all pads and rotors, l/front upper control arm, alignment 

- 13 3.5 1/2 ton ... front cover reseal

- 12 3.5 1/2 ton ... right side exhaust manifold

- 08 F350 6.4 high rail truck... both batteries, alternator, front u-joints

- 11 F250 6.7 ... bad double cardan u-joint on the front prop shaft took out the transfer case

- 12 Raptor ... steering gear, high pressure hose, both pinion seals

- Ford school next week! Steering & Suspension - I have been waitlisted for nearly two years, though I did defer it once before.

- bought a clean 05 Freestar, too. they hit the ditch to avoid a deer, kept the body perfect but broke an outer cv shaft. naturally she has gears but a definite lack of final drive. $300 : )

should keep me busy for a few days

You have CF-18s at your shop? Very cool - Hornets are cool birds! I used to see them on the tarmac quite often at YXY ; )

Not my photo, but here's one on final approach into Whitehorse.

In all seriousness though, I'm finding it much more reliable to program modules wirelessly. Our tired Toughbooks are having a very hard time maintaining solid USB connections, and the movement of the cable in the port doesn't help the situation. I find that the wireless dongle is better when it comes to consistency. I made the switch from a hard wired connection after blanking a PCM on a 1/2 ton five or six months ago and I've had decent luck since.

 

- 02 F350 DRW, front hub, brakes and tube seals

If this is a 4x4 and you talking about a front wheel bearing, I just got a Motorcraft HUB-11 in yesterday that the inner needle bearing was seized to the cage, probably because it was not greased from the factory. I was reminded of an old guy I used to work with, who told me to always check over parts before installing them.Heck he would plasti gauge reman engines before he installed them

 

 

It was indeed a HUB-11 ... slapped it in an fortunately had no such issues. The only odd bit was I clicked the key on in the cylinder just a tiny bit to disable the steering lock. I go to start the thing and get click no crank. I assumed that I drained the batteries, so I put them on a charge over lunch. Came back and same deal. Did a couple quick voltage drop tests and called a starter. Fortunately the customer was of sound mind with it - instead of asking if we were screwing him he said he's thankful that it happened when it did as opposed to in the bush (welding rig). Right on!

In the afternoon I banged out that F350 rear end. Days when you come home smelling of gear oil are usually good for the old pay cheque : )

- 08 F350 SRW, rear pinion kissed the carrier. getting all new stuff

- 02 F350 DRW, front hub, brakes and tube seals

- 09 Focus m/t, 4th gear synchros

Thanks a bunch! That was the stuff I was looking for.

For posterity, here's the actual pdf article for SEIC/high idle on the 6.7

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q180R3.pdf

I have a customer who wants to rig up a high idle on his 2015 using upfitter number four. Is this still possible?

I know on some of the older units you just picked the desired blunt cut wire down by the l/front kick panel and fed it v-batt Also, I know that I used to have a printout from Ford Fleet/Body Builders which had info on what engine speed each wire offered, but for the life of my I can't find it now. Any info like that for the brand new units?

They are Goodyears, but all the same who knows where they are made.

I'm quoting out both options, but I'm not going to go E load LT. The load capacity on those G rated Goodyears at 110 psi is well north of 4000 lbs each  - nothing to sneeze at.

Thanks for the feedback