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7.3 IDM mod

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I was paroozing the internet and google 7.3 Performance mods. To see what kind of crazy crap people are doing to try and reinvent the wheel. I came across a mod where you crack open the 750 dollar IDM, unsolder one of the resistors and solder in different value resistor. Supposedly this mod "only costs a dollar" and it gives you and easy 30hp and 60ft/lbs. It does this by ramping the injector voltage from 100 volts to 140 volts. Making the injectors fire faster. This is "supposed" to give better throttle response and more low end power. "and remember folks this mod only costs a dollar and an hour of your time"

Now lets read into the bullshit here. The ability of the average joe googling this kind of stuff on the internet should NOT be changing and IDM let a lone opening it up to remove parts and put in others. The mod only cost 1 dollar statement is fine until you slip with the soldering iron or dont use a heat sink, your cheap mod just cost you $750+.

My thought is an electrical engineer who went to school for 4-6 years designed this complex electrical piece of equipment to work with a complete system. What does the added heat from the increased voltage do to the rest of the components on the board. The injectors were designed to operate on a specific voltage. What happens to the solenoids after thousands of miles at the increased voltage. The most important thing of it all is what does it do to tailpipe emissions. You have supposedly increased the horsepower of the engine?

I apolagize for the long post but it just blows me away that people actually try this stuff. I little slip with a soldering iron, some static from dragging you feet on the carpet, using a low quality resistor and boom. You have wrecked a perfectly good expensive piece of equipment.

-RANT OFF-

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You can also install a resistor between two legs of the ICP sensor to make it bias low. 5KOhms is enough to lower the reading, but not skew it enough to cause a code.

 

At a given throttle amount, the IPR drives the high pressure system to a certain pressure. That pressure is read from the ICP sensor. If the ICP sensor reports a lower pressure than actual, then the IPR will be driven higher to compensate. More ICP, more power...

 

One account I read about this emphasised how easy it was to remove if the truck had to go to the shop for warranty work. Nothing to unprogram, and no tools required. Simply open the hood, and snatch the resistor out of the back of the ICP connector - and no evidence is left behind.

 

The same site detailed the same operation on a 6.0 - using a 10KOhm resistor.

 

There was also talk of a variable resistor setup to go from 10KOhms down to 1KOhm while driving. Values lower than 5KOhms would make for an unacceptable idle, but can be tolerated under load...

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At least all the 7.3's are out of warranty now, so when these IDIOTS break them they can't blame anyone but themselves.

 

It always seems to amaze me how some customers come in cussing Ford for building a bad product when they admittedly haven't followed proper maintenance schedules, or have modified the truck causing the problems they're having.....but it's

Quote:
FORD'S FAULT!
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Greg... the popular resistor is 10K... hence the name "10K mod".... and I'm unsure if it will or wont set a code...

 

But we have to remember that these guys "harpoon" their tanks so they can fill them up to the rim and do it fast...

 

Or zoodad their air filters...

 

Let's not forget the CCV mod.... they modify the crankcase vent so that the fumes vent to atmosphere.... This way they wont have that slimey oil film in their charge air cooler ducts - God forbid...

 

Or disconnect the wastegate in hopes that there is an extra 3 or 4 ounces of boost to be had.

 

To attempt to put some of these guys in perspective.... some of them get concerned with what they have for boost readings... AT PART THROTTLE.

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But we have to remember that these guys "harpoon" their tanks so they can fill them up to the rim and do it fast...

 

I didn't know what this was so I had to take a look and see. These guys are pissing and moaning because they can only get 21 gallons in their tanks or whatever.

 

Im not real impressed with myself, but I ran my truck low on fuel yesterday (read: 40 miles to empty on the dash). I put 28 gallons in a 31 gallon tank, so what are these wierdos complaining about?

 

Seems like a WHOLE bunch of work for very little reward.

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Spend some time looking around in the "monkeyhouse" - the diesel stop is by far the best place to ummmmmm create some sport...

 

Most of these guys will drive a broken truck (or wish they could drive their broken truck) for months on end.... first because they would rather throw parts at it themselves rather than trust the "stealership"... or because they are trying to save 17 cents or so on parts costs.

 

If you are having a problem with your truck... each and every poster will recommend the last repair he had done on his truck as the cure...

 

Oh... and don't forget that installing a 203 degree thermostat will make the engine warm up faster.....

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S

If you are having a problem with your truck... each and every poster will recommend the last repair he had done on his truck as the cure...

My truck was doing this, and it was the <xyz>. You should try that.

 

I like the guys with the 7.3 trucks offering these helpful suggestions to 6.0 trucks and 6.4 trucks. Hell, even GM and Dodge trucks sometimes LOL

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  • 3 weeks later...

I hate fueling my tank. truck stops are even worse since they pump faster. If I just pump like normal and when it clicks its at least 5-6 gallons shy of full due to foam. I have to sit there and slow, and I mean slow fill it to get the extra 5-6 gallons. not so much a big deal around town driving by when towing and traveling it blows as I get less miles per tank and have to make fuel stops even more. I know on the dodges they reroute venting to help with this

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