Jump to content

oil leaks

Rate this topic


Recommended Posts

Has anyone had any bed plate gaskets leak when no one has had the front or rear engine covers off of an 06 f350 6.0l with 23k ? Dye test, found dye present on passengers side bed plate seam and dripping down on ear of the block. Traced dye to the front of the engine along the bed plate seam, appears to stop right below ac compressor bracket near crank sensor. Replaced suspect crank sensor oringcleaned all dye off block, and after extensive driving the same trail of dye is back. I believe there is enough evidence to replace the bed plate gasket, but I have never had them leak.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got one right now. Resealed the cam & crank sensors last time it was in, leak is back, but at the back -- starts about 2" in front of where the starter ends, almost between the compressor and the starter, so it almost sounds like the exact same place.

 

Never had the covers off, according to warranty history.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

See lots of them lately. Last one was an 07 with 30k, worst leaking one ive seen yet. Im starting to think that the engine factory had a problem with properly siliconing the t- joints. Got one tomorow on an 05 with 25k.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess I'm not losing my mind then. I just couldn't imagine how the oil would start leaking in the middle of the gasket. Well i guess it is time to pop my bedplate gasket cherry.Good times! Any hot tips?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

TA-16 on the bedplate sealing surfaces and gaskets. Take your time and make sure everything is CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. There was a topic on here awhile back about claiming them, and the opcodes required.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

These must be getting popular. On the international side we now have to go through a pre approval process. They also revised what they consider a leak and "normal" weapage. I have yet to do one, but I do see a lot of them where the bed plate is damp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I see alot that are "weaping" as you say. I use my better judgment on these, if there are oil drips hanging off the starter or rear cover, then they warrant replacement. The only ones i have seen leak mid seal area have had some form of porrus casting or machining marks. Most i see are sneaking oil around the t- joints, then it tracks back in the outside of the seals grooves.

 

Hot tips: like Aaron said, clean-clean-clean, use sealer, and cab off. Im doing a set right now. 10-11 hrs turn around with cab off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, cab off makes it easier to pull engine out. A good engine stand is a must. I did a couple hanging from the engine crane, scared for my life. Dealer wouldnt buy an engine stand, so i finally bought my own. They looked at me strange when i wouldnt let another guy use it for a 5.4 engine job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I personally pull the intake, HPOP cover, oh look a witness mark on the rear cover from the STC fitting Posted Image better swap that shiz out with the update part.

 

Typically, before I pull the motor I run the ass off the thing to check the EOT/ECT spread, just in case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, cab off makes it easier to pull engine out. A good engine stand is a must. I did a couple hanging from the engine crane, scared for my life. Dealer wouldnt buy an engine stand, so i finally bought my own. They looked at me strange when i wouldnt let another guy use it for a 5.4 engine job.

 

I wouldn't fuckin let anyone use it either. The last dealership I worked at was really fucking cheap and had an egine stand made up at the local welding shop. I called it the Arm Stretcher or Arm ripper. This thing was just plain dangerous. It was extremely top heavy and it took two big guys to turn the engine over with the stupid fucking bar. I had called over another tech to help me one time that was only about 145 pounds and it lifted him right off the ground before he got thrown off the bar like a catapult.

 

Posted Image

 

Posted Image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Normally i wouln't care, but i had a scattered 6.0l on it, and they kindof hinted that i should hurry up and put it back in the crate so he could use it. I pointed to my name writen on it and said i dont think so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dwayne: Whoever built that stand needs a basic lesson in physics- 90% of the weight is above the pivot point. It would take two gorillas to turn that engine, and it's likely to flip over while doing it.

 

Cbriggs: I'd think about changing employers (in a better economy) if they would not provide me with the basic tools to do the job safely. It blows my mind how fucking stupid employers can be sometimes. A: You should not have to buy an engine stand when working in a shop. B: Repeating Dwayne- I wouldn't let anyone use the fucker, either!

 

Un-fucking-real.

 

Posted Image

 

 

 

Posted Image

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bruce, you have no idea how much I bitched about that piece of shit stand. I told them the same thing over and over about all the weight being up that high. With that stand, you actually had to pull the intake off, because it would hit the bottom of the stand when the engine was flipped over.

 

 

Don't even get me started on why I own my own Battery charger/booster. That shop had only one when I bought mine. And then I had to put a label on it with my electronic labeler stating: "PROPERTY OF DWAYNE GORNIAK! FUCK OFF AND GO USE THE SHOP EQUIPMENT!"

 

If you look in that photo on the other side of the engine stand......there's my battery charger.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bruce that engine in the picture looks like a Ford training engine with the manila tags with numbers on them. Most training courses have hands on exercises and a worksheet - name or match or find the components by number or letter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You know, it's always bothered me that Ford comes out with a standard procedure that requires a standard tool such as an engine stand for example and then they don't make a standard policy that every dealership certified to do these repairs has to have these standard tools to do these standard repairs. What bothers me the most about all of this is that alot of dealerships won't even consider the safety involved just because they are simply too damned cheap! Saving a buck is more important than saving limbs its seems.

 

 

Bruce, that engine stand in your post is the one we have here at S.L. Ford. Man I love that stand. Jut simply crank the handle to rotate the engine. Ahhhh, it's just so damned effortless and Fucking Safe!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You know, it's always bothered me that Ford comes out with a standard procedure that requires a standard tool such as an engine stand for example and then they don't make a standard policy that every dealership certified to do these repairs has to have these standard tools to do these standard repairs. What bothers me the most about all of this is that alot of dealerships won't even consider the safety involved just because they are simply too damned cheap! Saving a buck is more important than saving limbs its seems.

 

 

Bruce, that engine stand in your post is the one we have here at S.L. Ford. Man I love that stand. Jut simply crank the handle to rotate the engine. Ahhhh, it's just so damned effortless and Fucking Safe!

 

 

if we were required to have one it would most likely be made out of wood/paper and scrap iron anyways...(inside joke)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...