Average bleed times after engine replacement?

lmorris · January 24, 2013

What are you guys getting for average cranking times to get these running after having the high pressure fuel system open? Mine won't get over 145 PSI after maybe 5 minutes of trying. Low pressure side is bled properly.

mrbudge · January 24, 2013

Usually start up quite quickly, unless you have a leaking injector, then they never start.

Steve Mutter · January 24, 2013

Is your truck not starting at all ?. After a high pressure system repair they seem to have a long crank till you get them out on the road and drive them hard.

lmorris · January 24, 2013

After the initial bleed procedure, it sounded like it was going to start, then nothing, just cranks. Only builds up 145 PST FRP. I removed the fuel return from the left fuel rail, and monitored the fuel coming out with the electric pump running and the FCV and PCV seem to be doing their jobs. All fittings were cappped during disassembly and every precaution was used to keep the fuel system clean during assembly. Although this engine was basically a huge brick of dirt when it came in. It did run, although for only 30 seconds at a time before engine replacement( failed 1 and 5 rod bearings with head contact). It recieved a long block with 1 and 5 injectors. Other than getting a bad injector, I am not sure what is going on. I will be pulling the glowplugs to check for misting next I guess.

Brad Clayton · January 24, 2013

I seem to recall over on the message boards, people having trouble with the HPFP crapping out after swapping it over on a long block replacement.

lmorris · January 24, 2013

You had to say that huh?..Curse you, thats what the PPT led to. Posted Image

Brad Clayton · January 24, 2013

seriously that sucks. That's always a tough one to explain to the managerial types who just can't grasp that things break anytime or place.

lmorris · January 24, 2013

Hotline wants me to crack #4 injector and crank till I get fuel coming out, then tighten and attempt to start. If it does I am then to replace the line and continue on my merry way. If not I am to replace the line and the HP pump. Doing some 6.4L bedplates in the meantime, will post later with the fix.

Brad Clayton · January 25, 2013

I wonder why it has to be number 4 and not number 8. <shrug>

lmorris · January 25, 2013

I wonder why it has to be number 4 and not number 8. <shrug>

Number 4 is the furthest injector from the pump if you follow the fuel lines. they go from the pump to the left rail, then over to the right rail. At least the left rail has the return line port you can disconnect, that one is easy to bleed.

lmorris · January 29, 2013

Update......Pump is buggered. Might have been the cause of the start and stall when it originally came in. Wonder if that and the spun rod bearings have something in common or just a total fluke. Anyways, now it MT to replace the pump. I cracked the line on #4 and had fuel instantly, veru little air. Sounds like the cold line was full of air on this one.

Update: new pump fixed it right up. That most likely was the cause of the start stall issue. Gotta love it when a buggered engine masks other concerns. I was starting to thing it was something I did wrong.

lmorris · February 11, 2013

After my last engine replacement, I realized that the first bad pump turned real easy compared to the new one and the one on the second engine. Something to keep in mind.

Brad Clayton · February 11, 2013

I also give the 6.0l pumps a good check spin when I have them out for STC fittings.

LeRoy · February 20, 2013

just had the same thing happen - spun rod brg - replaced s/block - no start - 377 psi cranking - bleed system three diff. ways for 2 days before they would approve a h/p pump . . . put the new pump in - re-bled system 2 times - fired off and sent it down the road . . . . .