13S04

[Brad Clayton]

Recall 13S04 Explorer

 

This is a fuel pump replacement on a relatively easy, normally aspirated, 2wd Explorer.

The first thing I like to do is remove as much fuel as possible.

 

I made this tool which has a 5/16 fitting on one end and a 1/4 fitting on the other end. This will work for Explorers and Fusions (respectively) which require fuel tank removal.

 

 

Disconnect the fuel supply line at the front of the engine.

 

 

Connect the hose to the fuel line and run to a container. IDS is used to run the pump until the tank is below 1/4 full.

 

 

The gage can be ran into the red, but the pump runs really slow when it’s this low.

 

 

These are the tools I use. The only specialty tools needed (in my opinion) are the pump retaining ring release tool 310-123 and the fuel line release tool (little red guy there to the right of the blow gun).

 

 

The exhaust is under the tank and must be removed. A pry bar is used to remove the rear exhaust hangers. I use a rag to keep from scratching the chrome tips.

 

 

These pliers are the only way to go when removing exhaust hangers.

 

 

There are four hangers in total, two pictured here and one at each muffler. The front connection is a slip joint style and can be difficult to remove. I am not replacing any part of the exhaust therefore I only need to get it out of the way of the fuel tank. The front of the exhaust has a flex joint and allows for plenty of maneuvering without damaging anything. The now loose exhaust is propped up on a screw jack and slid just under the right rear tire.

 

 

Fuel pump connector and harness retaining pin.

 

 

 

[Brad Clayton]

Now I remove the canister (five 10 mm nuts) but I leave the vapor line at the bottom connected (green lock) and just lay the canister over on the exhaust.

 

 

Fuel supply line.

 

 

Next, I reach over the right rear control arm to get the filler neck (1/4 socket).

 

 

A radiator hose removal tool makes short work of breaking the seal between the pipe and hose.

 

 

Just on the other side of the filler neck joint (closer to fuel tank) is the filler tube vent line. The blue release pushes up easily to free the connection.

 

 

Last thing at the rear is the vent tube going into the uni-body.

 

 

2 bolts (13 mm) holding the front straps up. I use a trans jack to support the tank.

 

 

The rear bolts do not need to be removed, besides that, they are very difficult to get to. So the straps can be gently bent down out of the way. The tank can now be lowered down to get to the pump.

 

 

I remove any dirt from the top of the tank.

 

 

Disconnect all the fuel lines and electrical connection and remove the ring with the tool. Notice the fuel output line is black, signifying that is the old style.

 

[Brad Clayton]

Once the pump is free, you have to disconnect this internal vapor line. It is a bit tricky and the easiest way to get it released is to have the pump as low in the tank as possible. I push on the center of the release clip with a pocket screwdriver (not shown) and pry down on the line with a door trim tool. If this clip breaks on you, then it is easily replaced with a clip from Dorman Products # 800-041 5/8 clip.

 

 

Next is the transfer line and the pump is out. I swap over the sending unit and prepare for reinstallation.

 

 

The vapor line needs to be tethered as it will not allow the pump to clear the opening if you hold it up like this. It must be dropped down into the tank and Ford suggests using a long zip tie to retrieve it. I opt for mechanics wire! I give it a quick wrap, tuck it into the tank and bend the wire a bit to force the line over and away from the pump opening. A new pump o-ring is installed.

 

 

Now the wire can be pulled out and the line will follow allowing it to be easily reattached.

 

 

Now here is where using the correct tool makes life easy. Those plastic fittings will break off without hesitation if the tool slips off the engagement ears and hits them, so care must be used at this point. I get the ring into position as shown in the red square, index the tool as shown and using the biggest ½ ratchet that I own, give a quick sharp tug to roll those lugs under the lips.

 

 

The rest is just the reverse of disassembly.

[Bruce Amacker]

Nice documentation!  How much time does it pay?

 

[Brad Clayton]

Thank you, this is 2.1 hours if I remember, or 2.3. It pays the least because it's only 2WD and not a police unit.

[batmantech]

Nice job Brad!

I think yours is better than the new job aid video on FMC web site!

[Brad Clayton]

Thanks    I didn't go into detail about making sure the fuel float arm doesn't hang up in there, like the video though..

[Mekanik]

Nice write up Brad Clayton! I've got one of these coming back in tomorrow morning that I did the recall in. It's an Explorer and the customer says that after I did the recall he filled up his tank and the gauge only reads half a tank or maybe less. I was really careful with the float, but apparently not careful enough. When I replaced the fuel pump it had about 1/2 tank and I was surprised to still have fuel overflowing out of the fuel pimp hole. But I guess since it's 1/2 tank the right side is going to be 100% filled and the left side will be 100% empty. I guess that's why the feel tanks lean to one side. Oh well...

[batmantech]

If they come in full on one side you can tip up the right side ,before removing the pump, and it will flow back into the left.

[mchan68]

I've got one here that won't read higher than empty. I too, did the recall on this one. I've already had the tank out again, and looked inside to see if there was ANY PLACE where the float arm travel could possibly be obstructed to no avail. After buttoning it back up, putting back in the 5 gallons I removed, the needle still won't read higher than empty        . Anybody have any ideas? I've already done plenty of these recalls up to this point without issue on all of them except this one.

[Brad Clayton]

Put a bit more than 5 in it and drive it rather aggressively and reevaluate that fuel gage position.