Chase Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 All you guys with E-series experience, what is an expected time for HPOP, standpipe and dummy plug replacement? 2005 E450 6.0. Just would like to know if i'm getting shafted. Advisor quoted 21 hrs with diag. Van was a no start towed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 Depends on how you take the valve covers off I guess. How do you know it needs dummy plugs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 You're not getting shafted. I charge 16 hours to do that job including diagnosis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chase Posted October 1, 2013 Author Share Posted October 1, 2013 Depends on how you take the valve covers off I guess.How do you know it needs dummy plugs? Can you get the right side valve cover off without removing the LH engine mount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted October 1, 2013 Share Posted October 1, 2013 Is it a bus/cube van or a regular econoline passenger style van? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted October 1, 2013 Share Posted October 1, 2013 Depends on how you take the valve covers off I guess.How do you know it needs dummy plugs? Can you get the right side valve cover off without removing the LH engine mount? Why does that matter? The left side engine mount comes out in less than 10 minutes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chase Posted October 1, 2013 Author Share Posted October 1, 2013 Is it a bus/cube van or a regular econoline passenger style van? Cube Van 25 passenger college bus Depends on how you take the valve covers off I guess.How do you know it needs dummy plugs? Can you get the right side valve cover off without removing the LH engine mount? Why does that matter? The left side engine mount comes out in less than 10 minutes... I suppose your right about that. Never done anything to an E-series like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted October 1, 2013 Share Posted October 1, 2013 Don't be afraid of the engine mount... Just don't follow the service manual directions, or you'll be removing a lot of unneccesary parts. Just remove the 4 bolts to separate the 2 pieces of the mount, remove the nuts from both side mounts to the crossmember. Jack the engine up with a block of wood on the bellhousing until it's high enough to get the frame side portion of the mount out. Then lower the engine watching not to put too much tension on the powersteering return hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 +1 on that. Basically the only thing I do is remove the mount It takes longer to fight with the right side cover , bend it, scratch up the sealing surface or damage it in some other manner. Sheeeeooot! 21 hours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 The more you do the more you'll pick up pace, at first the labor times seem ridiculously low. I've only been doing e-series 6.0s for a little over a year now and I'm finally meeting book times with ease. The left mount is not bad. I use an expedition bottle jack and a 4x4 8" long piece of wood on the bellhousing. Loosen the right mount so the motor moves around easier and take the isolator half of the whole deal off the left side, leave the left adapter bracket on the engine. I do service one Quigley 4wd conversion, that one needs the oil filter housing removed to get the left mount out. I did 13 hours on the last front cover and 11 hours on the last set of injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 When you're reassembling, make sure to put the 4 bolts that hold the mount haves together in BEFORE lowering the engine back down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chase Posted October 2, 2013 Author Share Posted October 2, 2013 So are you guys still removing the cooling module and all of the front components as well? This doesn't seem too bad i'm just taking my time to not break anything and remember how it all goes back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 So are you guys still removing the cooling module and all of the front components as well? This doesn't seem too bad i'm just taking my time to not break anything and remember how it all goes back together. Nope. Just the alternator, but that's only because it's in the way of getting the valve cover out. Don't drain the coolant. Don't touch the hoses. Don't touch the fan... Yada, yada, yada... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chase Posted October 2, 2013 Author Share Posted October 2, 2013 Oh, I got way too carried away then. Only top alternator I assume, or both? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 I do take all the front shit out but I've never had anyone to show me any tricks. Everything I've learned has been on my own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 Oh, I got way too carried away then. Only top alternator I assume, or both? Both, if it has two... But, remove the secondary after removing the mount because you'll have better access to the bolts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron Posted October 3, 2013 Share Posted October 3, 2013 I don't miss hearing "diesel econoline dual alternators". Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chase Posted October 4, 2013 Author Share Posted October 4, 2013 Well it's out the door and gone. Wasn't too bad but next time I definately won't take the radiator out if I don't have to. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 I've never worked on an econoline that didn't have dual alternators Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 Well you guys came through again. Did a #1 injector and shaved a lot of time off that repair. I never thought any of those alts could come out they way they did. It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be getting the tensioners loose or the belts back on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted November 12, 2013 Share Posted November 12, 2013 It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be getting the tensioners loose or the belts back on. When I remove the primary belt, I take a 36" 1/2" drive extenstion and slip it under the belt on the passenger side of the alternator and pry against the valve cover to pull the belt tensioner, then I reach down and lock the tensioner lever. I use an extension because it has no edge to damage the belt. When I'm done, I slip the belt back over the alternator and use the same method to release the lever. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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