lmorris Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 I have a hpfp to do. Can't lift the cab all the way or get the truck high enough to remove the transmission. Thinking of a partial lift to get the turbos out of the way. Any ideas? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Done it with a partial cab lift many times. Remove the downpipe out the top or just let it drop down and rest on the floor. Then all the up-pipes will come out of the way and just use an engine hoist to remove the turbos. You don't want to disturb the fitment of the turbos or you may end up with a leak. I did it once without removing the turbos but I don't recommend trying it. You can't really see what you are doing and HPFP is a heavy sucker to try and drop in. With the partial lift I try to jack on the core support underneath the radiator as close to the middle as possible. Once the cab is up I'll slide some pieces of wood in between the cab mount and body and let the weight back on the frame. I also loosen the top radiator support bolts from the body, if you get too much twist in the body you can damage the rad. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybullitt Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 After reading about partial cab lifts on here I tried and on some trucks its the way to go. Here is a picture of a truck partial cab lift no turbos on it. I pulled the turbos off put the oil feed block off in and started it up and moved it out of the bay. Then drove it back in when Turbos showed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 I do them in the same fashion as the right side inlet pipe. I raise the front of the cab and support it with a 4X4 between the front body mounts and the frame. It leaves more than enough room to remove the turbos and the fuel pump. I use an engine hoist to remove the turbos, but not necessarily to reinstall them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gustavo Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 I always remove the hpfp with the cab on. Get it out and put back together and running in 5 hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 Pump is in. Still only reads 0 psi, cracked the line to the left rail and it definitely has something. Have an FRP sensor coming in Monday. Never run into this before, but will the PCM not fire the injectors if it sees 0 psi cranking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gustavo Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Make sure you are getting base fuel pressure and reset high pressure fuel pump parameters and bleed the low side and high pressure side system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted January 2, 2015 Author Share Posted January 2, 2015 System bled. 5psi from low side. I think the Frp is stuck on zero psi for some reason and the pcm won't turn the injectors on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybullitt Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Pump is in. Still only reads 0 psi, cracked the line to the left rail and it definitely has something. Have an FRP sensor coming in Monday. Never run into this before, but will the PCM not fire the injectors if it sees 0 psi cranking? I think thats correct wont try firing until it gets min pressure. Did you try unplugging the frp sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybullitt Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 System bled. 5psi from low side. I think the Frp is stuck on zero psi for some reason and the pcm won't turn the injectors on. Frp stuck on 0 psi would be from debris in rail. I would take a sample from fuel rail when you take valve cover off to do frp sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonybullitt Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 I always remove the hpfp with the cab on. Get it out and put back together and running in 5 hours. To get them done that fast you cant be fighting rusty bolts like we do in MN. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 If it has metal as Tony mentioned it could also have caused an injector to be stuck open from metal under the pintle causing no high pressure to build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gustavo Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 You are correct no rusty bolts.I live in Southern California. Must be a pain working on a 6.4 with rusty bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 New frp sensor showed 1200 psi, now has enough flow to check the rails, metal was found. Replaced the rails and injectors, made sure the rest of the system was clean. Runs like a top now. Hour meter shows 8100 hours, only 85000 KM(53000 miles) on the odometer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DieselD Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Partial cab lifts are the ticket. Even more so on the trucks I have here with service beds on them that making lifting the cab completly a huge pain. I feel for you guys with rusty everything, that has to be miserable! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.