8WA Sman

Maybe Brad can shed some light on this??

I am guessing you checked tune and PCM updates?

I would also look at TCM software and pids to see if anything jumps out.

What are the results or max MGP during the turbo boost test?

I am guessing the fuel sample looks normal?

What about checking for a tune?

Good to know but I can't seem to find any mention of programing in the WSM or PC/ED.

When I see random vibration after a bump it, tires is the first thing that comes to mind.

Sorry I will be no help on the AM input, I have always used OE.

What tires does it have and is this a four-wheel drive?

Trans vent blocked?

If it was in my bay I would test with a refrigerant identifier.

According to my own research Torque + angle bolts grow like 6.4L oil

They also can lose their clamping force

My nephew is a Chrysler tech, he says off the top of his head 2.5 and the 5 mm bolts like to get rusted in there then it's turbo time

The part # I came up with for the cam gear is 1841820C1 and the sensor in the front cover is 1828345C91

Joe,

Got a Vin and Engine serial #. I ran a Vin from a 2008 that I found online and came up with a 1835985C92 for a cam sensor. Looks similar to a 6.0L sensor is it just me or does that piece look wedged in there?

Chris,

How about a Vin or 2v or 3v or 4x4? This would all help to assist.

Any brake pedal concerns?

What about a faulty check valve?

Ford PPE info

https://corporate.ford.com/articles/products/ford-producing-respirators-and-masks-for-covid-19-protection.html

https://shop.ppe.ford.com/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMmvZ_OYQzE

This is an update correction to the above post and hopefully everyone that read the original post will read the update so as to not mislead anyone.

After dissecting 1 hub several weeks after installing the 2 new hublocks and not finding the diaphragm leaking I got the sinking feeling my diag and understanding of exactly how these hubs work was not 100% accurate. I made a test stand which lead me to suspect when this problem occurs(leak in the Ford logo) that the problem is actually with the orange O-ring.....Well I saved the 2nd hub and installed it on a truck today and my suspicions were correct. Thankfully both old hublocks had noisy center splines but my diag was still not 100% accurate. So it looks like I will be writing my own stimulus check to the owner..Edumacation ain't cheap

Looks like the Bosch MTS 6531

I have a lot to learn in the area of transmissions but I will take a stab....

Looking at the shift chart if solenoid E is stuck on that will be 4th then if the PCM turns off the TCC that is manual 1.

 Hopefully I didn't miss too badly

The valve body I come up with is RL166834AM

Was the solenoid pack color the same as the old one?

Got a VIN and part number used?

Got a Vin?

See Brad's excellent post for more info on the TCC solenoid.

Separator plate # BC3Z7Z490E

Any codes?

So high load and FRP?

So just thinking out loud...Is this similar to a P0101 except it's for the Map sensor or P2074? I am guessing you already checked the KOEO sensors for bias?

Have you tried a MAF sensor reset/clear?

What about a CAC restriction or throttle valve issue?

Any clues in FF or Mode 6?

I had a 2014 SD with Auto hubs inop. Smoke test revealed cracked LF knuckle hose. Replace hose now smoke test passed unless I was rotating the wheel beraing(.010 in hg of flow)  but vacuum test failed on both hubs. I couldn't even get 5" in hg while constantly pumping. So hooked up my brake bleeder and started spraying around listening for that sucking on an empty straw noise. I noticed when I sprayed around the Ford logo it would dry out quickly. So I put a piece of tape there and could see the vacuum making the logo more defined. Now with a hand pump the vacuum would hold then instantly drop when the tape was removed.

Mode 6 data can be helpful..eg. which portion is failing and by how much, there may be other data/clues that can be helpful.

From the home screen Powertrain_OBD_Mode 6

Can you post the mode 6 data?