8WA Sman

Anyone ever install the GC3Z-54024A38-A listed in SSM 46345                   

The person who thought it is a good idea to make radiators without drain plugs.

What exact lights are coming on? I can't seem to connect the brakes & electrical to the same source unless maybe a crazy alternator but I would think there would be other drivability stuff going on.

What Zack said. If it was flooding a cylinder from a stuck injector would it show on a RC test? Also did you check the supply pressure & INERTIA_SW pid.

Sometimes gloves are for driving the vehicle, not the repair 

1 hour ago, tonybullitt said:

I had a truck I couldn't get refill to reset I ended up removing tank emptying it reinstalled tank refilled and it went to full. regular customer it's been fine since

I wonder if you could trick by just plugging a sender that is not installed in the tank?

Does SSM 47070 apply? I am a little confused about your DLC pin numbers they do not match what I am seeing in GSB G0000094

Check for problem with the FIPL for the trans shift problem.

 If this thing doesn't have the power it should may be time to rebuild injection pump.

 Any air leaks in the fuel system will also just cause nothing but problems.

Lots of good info here http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/topic/5477-1993-73-idi/?hl=hose

Everything Bruce said also check out  AESwave they have some of the best support in the industry.

If anyone else is interested I had the white plastic wire harness standoff bundling clip broken. To the best of my knowledge the part is # E3DB-13A506-AA & not available from Ford. These can be sourced from https://nexelec.com/VARI-E3DB13A506AA/

For the 3 valve I always do an induction cleaner the PM before, then the next morning I use a 3/8 impact & a air regulator or my 3/8 cordless to remove them. With this method only had to remove 1 broken plug so far.

One time someone tried to do plugs himself & broke some of the plug so I couldn't run the vehicle to do the induction cleaner. Every plug broke & the Lisle tool worked great.

On ‎1‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 1:43 PM, Mekanik said:

I’m out of the business and can’t check pids.  Can I test the sensor with a dvom?

 

 

Well if you insist in cooking with out a digital thermometer... use a DVOM and load test or voltage drop all circuits coming out of the ignition switch & all the grounds related to the circuits in question. If it has a connector @ the bottom of the steering column check that also

Does the FF inferred pid match what fuel is in the tank? I am pretty sure FF learned pid basically means the PCM has learned the alcohol content.

See if you can get your hands on GSB G0000017 or GSB G0000079 for more info.

 I would think in your theroy the fuel trims would still show something amiss.

Does the mode 6 data show by how much the cats are failing or any misfires?

I would have to think about that one.

 You got anybody that could diag this for you. IIRC those OE ignition modules are not cheap

 A hot no restart sounds typical of a sensor or ignition module, make sure you check the terminals going into the ignition module for getting spread. Check injector pulse. Watch your speed signal pids from your IC module (18x or 24x) or whatever the numbers are.

Also check the coils & make sure they are not getting super hot.

 Check the FP with a with a gauge or at least a DVOM for the amp draw. There should be a prime terminal next to the FP fuse. Even a couple pounds low can make a GM not start, they seem to take more pressure to start then to run. You could have a fuel pump relay that's not latching when it's hot, test the relay or swap it with another one.

 What's the theft light doing?

Had a '01 7.3L with a battery light on intermittent usually only when hot or after extended driving ,no problem with the batteries staying charged. This had been going on for quite some time. I figured since they decided get this truck redone including a new paint job, flat bed, & ect. I may as well diag the battery light. The alternator a/c voltage was jumping around, should have used my Pico to check the ripple instead of my DVOM so I would have the capture. The voltage would drop low & amps would also jump around. Replacing the alternator also fixed the unstable idle. This idle problem would usually any happen hot & after extended idle it was almost like a bad ICP/IPR or HPOP problem.

I normally don't do AM stuff but they wanted me to install the filler neck and they would have bought the kit from Ford. I really didn't feel like dropping the tank to use the Ford kit so I got a filler neck, SS slice some hose from http://www.fillernecksupply.com/. I got the flame resistant expandable webbing & ground from 2 other places. I was able to use the OE hose without cutting it. I don't think it turned out to bad

I also did my first 6.7 starter the other day just like Chad's tip in this post. I was able to get one more start out of the truck, man I don't think I have ever seen a starter melt the bolts

https://nexelec.com/automotive-wire-harness/connectors/?search_query=&page=1&limit=18&sort=featured&category=51&is_category_page=1

22 hours ago, Keith Browning said:

I could not figure out what was wrong... appaently this was supposed to have a door latch on it. Was the box previously opened?

 

The part # was probably hard to see, guess I should not have resized the pic or resized it differently.

The box did appear to be opened @ some point. I could see scuff marks on the cable housing of the handle base end. When I seen the missing base I couldn't quit thinking I haven't done one of these old style F-Series door latch assy. (F4TZ-15219A65-A) in years but I sure did not ever remember having to reuse any of the old parts. Which IIRC is part of the reason Ford started selling the whole kit because they can fail in multiple area's. The box does have FoMoCo's newest label on it so it was done recently

I always find it interesting how many broken door handles people will replace, then some even go out and buy the Dorman metal one's till they rip out the door skin. They are always surprised how easy the door opens after the new latch assy. is installed. 

That's better...

What's wrong with this picture?  

Did you happen to check the PCM for any available updates?

I think the PCM is looking for voltage drop across the EPC solenoid. So disconnecting the harness may not be a valid test.

I would load test  pin 12. According to the wiring diagram that circuit should have full B+ in start & run. Also the WSM say when the P1747 sets line pressure should be at min pressure, it sounds like yours trans is at max line pressure. If the voltage on pin 81 goes to 8 volts or above KOER when PCM should be commanding EPC (above 70 degrees) & powers & grounds to PCM load test good, I would say that there is cause to believe the PCM is  

You got a amp clamp for IDS or a DSO?

OBD II info for that code says : Current feedback circuit is less then commanded for 5 sec.

I finally found it in the WSM section 501-35/Rivet replacement.

It would make to much sense to put it in the frame 502 section...

I just put a ScanDisk SSD in my wife's laptop. I starts in 32 sec. compared to 2 min & 20 sec. I could not for the life of me figure how to get the link from Dell for the OS install to work, luckily I had a OS disc on hand.  

Hind sight....I think 7L3Z6038CA would have worked for the RH mount you will have to grind the frame slot out. (12 mm to 14 mm stud size) I also found  TSB 07-25-13 just tonight.

 I used an AM mount and had to grind the slot, customer welded the original heat shield on the AM mount.