8WA Sman

I had a Napa blow the corner out when I hooked up the booster to jump start. My policy is to always wear safety glasses when I mess with batteries. I pretty much have safety glasses on all the time anyway.

'12 F-450 Reductant heater

'03 F-150(Collision) Rear spring front bracket, axle shaft, seals, maybe bearing

7.3 Rear pinion loose, battery light on

'10 GMC Terrain cam codes, 3 qt. low in oil 10 k on the oil(Yeah it's probably going to need timing chains) Oh & the A/C condenser is leaking

'13 Pentastar misfire/engine noise(Probably needs rocker rollers, may also need cams)

'04 Malibu cranks/no start

Fusion lower control arm

Still need to get the '14 F-450 back for the trans leak??

How did Crappie fishing end up @ the bottom of the list

May be some clues in the mode 6 data.

Thanks Matt & Tony. I'll update when repaired

Thanks
That's encouraging...Lucky me.

That's basically the answer I have been getting which is why I spent more time then I got paid doing the diag. Guess I will find out for sure when I pull the transfer case. Glad I do not have to buy the spanner socket. 

Got a '14 F-450 with a leak between the trans & transfer case. Anybody done or have any advice on doing the rear seal on a 6R140? Dealer said I could borrow the spanner 307-649. Do I also need the installer? Updated seal is a kit BC3Z7052B

I use silicone dielectric grease. I also use the on the outside of FF2, I have yet to have one get stuck in the bracket.

Info from Parker lubricantusage.pdf

Parker-O-Lube.pdf

parker_o-lube.pdf

What radio does this have?

Does this have an illumination ground circuit CLN29

 FF2 is under pressure, FF1 is under vacuum.

 

 

I generally send them to my pc first, then I can check/adjust the orientation.

Wasn't the diag for a bad DMF something like brake torquing????

All I know is be careful on the really bad ones, tech I used to work with broke the bell housing on a ZF doing this.

Matt, I would personally hope this fleet shop has factory scan tool, shop info, parts, and catalog. First 2 items @ minimum.

Replace the tensioner.

Also look @ TSB 07-23-3...I know it's for a different YMM but the info on tensioner position may be helpful.

Another "What's wrong with this picture?" I cracked the lines before noticing it

The truck is laying on it's side

I also have these https://store.snapon.com/Window-Scrapers-8-Plastic-Blade-Windshield-Scraper-Blue-Point--P636291.aspx

https://store.snapon.com/Scrapers-Multipurpose-Scraper-Blue-Point--P641054.aspx

On most of the late model stuff I just very carefully use the razor blade style. The blue point & super scraper I have used more in the past for felt type gaskets.

I have found that diesel fuel works great for making short work of RTV.

The 3m scotch brite disc come in different textures.Keep in mind that the fine texture or any is not recommended by the OE's. I would be cautious about a used one that may have contamination from another job. What ever was used on the picture that Matt posted looks terrible...like a grinder

2002 Toyota 4Runner. High idle/ sometimes stalls code P1125 & P1128... Needs throttle body...correct..




I'm glad I have one of those tools that I just plug it in and it tells me what's wrong with it.... Code description... remove rubber mat from throttle body.

Actually since it was Autel...remove rubbor matte from

It's my understanding that these have been around for quite some time in the generic side.

Permanent DTC is defined in SAE J1979/ISO 15031-5 Service $0A. Google SAE J1979 PDF & open the link if you want to be bored out of your mind

I will probably mostly just be thinking of them as other forms of Fords P1000. We do not have Emissions testing were I am at but I still do drive cycles....sometimes 

I like the new style cans even better. I also just picked up a needle dispenser of the 100% stuff.

If a poor craftsman blames his tools...What is one the can't find them?

Hopefully everyone reads GSB G0000122 before they chase a problem that does not exist

I had to replace a EP sensor pigtail (code P0471) wire insulation had been rubbed by the heat sleeve plastic fingers. This what I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7F11K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Under the foil tape was a black liner that may have been fiberglass/carbon fiber???

I just used the Polyken tape. I also ordered in some Coroplast 1238x it has a black liner but I decided not to use that.

I am tired of 3 valve owners and they're blown fuses for the DLC.. Think I need to start charging for no communications diag.

Been there, I spent almost 2 hours pushing this truck in and chasing an IPR wiring issue, didn't occur to me to look at the fan clutch wires even though I knew they were also on that circuit. Could have drove the truck in too. 

Do you happen remember if the CEL came on in bulb check?