8WA Sman

I did catch it only because I happened to be sending Chad a text....Sometimes I miss the obvious

2013 Chysler Penastar roller went bad & wiped out the cam

Forgot to put the spacers in

You know I kept thinking to myself...I don't remember those exhaust manifold studs being that long, even went so far as to compare with my old studs

Exhaust manifolds on a '12 6.7...What's assembled incorrectly/missing in this picture

 

Fuse Chart
fuse_selection_chart.pdf

P/S pump on a '11 E-Series these pump are nice, they come with the pulley installed. Also the parts catalog is unclear about the o-ring for the pressure line @ the  pump. I ordered BC2Z-3F887-A & it seems to be correct. This o-ring is just slightly bigger then the normal P/S O-rings.

Mouse...Was :hammer:

How many techs still have those metal tins of steering column bearing grease or slip ring grease in there toolbox

 

Negative on the low pressure pump for my 6.7. Put it in and the truck would not start or build fuel pressure. Popped the line off at the secondary filter and it hissed like air escaped. Purged the line and suddenly I had good fuel pressure. Then I realized the secondary filter, even though it was a new WIX, was plugged. I'll have to get a pic of the cut open filter. It's clean but sucked in at the middle

 

The first time I saw a restricted secondary filter I figured it out right away, the second time I got burned completely. Perhaps I need to get my head out of my ass?

Maybe the engineers should done something really useful with that LP_FUEL_SW Pid & made it read NOT_OE

 

My thoughts on AM filters especially on a diesel....Anyone that wants to use a AM filter should be prepared to buy a AM engine.

In a very short period of time, it is possible to pump 8 litres of oil out of a 6.4L when you forget to put the oil filter back in....

And the cap tightened...I very much dislike messes, especially filthy diesel oil.

 

 I will say the worst mess I made was during my first experience with a 6.4 turbo oil seal leaking...Yeah bad idea to rev it up....I was outside my almost brand new shop, the wind was not in my favor & that filthy POS sprayed oil all over 2 sides of my 18 foot side walls...I wanted to scream ...I got a customer that does commercial power washing to come out & clean it. He had to use his heavy duty cleaner & a brush.

My 2009 had 34 litres in the crankcase. Drained some oil out of the CAC. The DPF is no-where close to being plugged. Cleared the codes and the wrench light, the drive to clean is gone as well. Wonder how the tire shop figured the delete and tune would fix a leaking injector? 

Less back pressure on the flames & engine components as they exit.

I kinda like that. I wish Ford would make that a supplied tool. Where did you buy it?

Waytek Inc.

What was the results of the relative comp test & what are ST FT? Fuel sample & check for metal in the upper fuel filter.

I recently purchased a handheld OEM style B crimper to

replace the battery cable positive terminal on a late model

F-150. I used this crimper http://www.sargen...l_B_Crimp_Terminals/ [sargenttools.com]

 

Sell sheet680.pdf

 

I wish this pic was better

quality but...

 

 

Here is the crimp I made with the tool

 

 

Voltage drop between B+ and the starter so as to validate the repair.

The was peak voltage drop during actual cranking it was closer to .25 volts

 

 

 

The part # for the terminal is BT4Z-14450-AA. This is

actually listed for a MKX/Edge & the only difference

that I found was the nut size.

I have no experience with the 1.6L. With that in mind it sounds like a calculation error maybe from a sensor. (APP, CACT, or O2 sensor.) The other thing is VCT or timing? So no codes?

The tune & vehicle are not in sync...Update the sync module I'd remove the tune,

What about the EGT sensor wires for shorting out. (Poor delete install http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/topic/5920-whats-in-your-bay-part-vi/?p=60797 ) What does the V Ref or CEL do when it stalls. What IFS, FRP V, & MAF V pids do when it stalls.

The MEOE221 is now MEF 367 & the MEOE 215 is now MEF 355 @ a better price.

Expecting a tech to put fuel in a vehicle in order to work on it is like thinking the doctor should drive the ambulance.

 

The 2 most commonly used tactics @ my shop when this occurs is...Customer you have just purchased some very expensive fuel or I will run it till it quits... you better show up with a gas jug

Truck 2 is fixed. Plugs, COP boots & TSB 15-0003(Brown PCV & Reflash)...Oh yeah 1 coil also..It rolled off my tool cart & broke the flange above top seal...So guess who gets to eat a coil  I just so happened to order 2 coils in just in case...I pull the first coil off the parts shelf and guess what it's broke in the same spot. So note to self do not drop those Denso style coils. :hammer:

 

Truck 1 will be back next week....still waiting on the positive battery cable end to come in, I guess Ford had to make it???

 

Thanks for all the input Tony, Tyler & Zach

 

Now I am not having much confidence in the 13-8-1 fixing the random misfire...Anybody need a $3x.xx piece of flat rubber..

I have never seen one of those break. The torque is too low. That's a puzzler.

By the way, does Leon get a prize?

If Leon ever stops by my shop to collect his prize he will see a BIG sign that states...Bring all I've nevers here.

I use TA-31 on everything.

This is what I have also always done or the IH stuff. I use the IH stuff on my building also, I used it to seal up a A/C drain on the west side of my shop & after 5 years in the sun it still looks new.

I did end up using the TA-29 on this job, more as a test then anything.

 

So I'm assuming you obviously didn't refill the crankcase with oil and start the engine up at this point? What did you end up doing? Pushing it out of the bay until you get your parts?

After I felt there was a high probability Leon was correct I put oil in it and drove it out. I do not see the point of pushing a self propelled object....when I do have to move one around I use a vehicle or this http://www.bobcat.com/loaders/skid-steer-loaders/models/a770/features (I rent it from the neighbors)

Did plugs 70 K ago, I pulled #6(P0306) & it looked fine. I guess I should hook up my Pico... This thing only misfires @ high RPM's very randomly, usually only after highway trips. I could not get it to misfire so I hosed the CAC down then I got it to misfire on heavy accel for about 30 seconds on #6.

Leon was correct, bolt # 13 for the upper oil pan was broke. I also replaced 14 & 10, I did not replace the long bolts because they have to come from MI or another dealer. According to Oasis this truck had 3 Turbo's in 2012-2013 maybe that is were that metal came from???

 

So is everyone using TA-29 for RTV on the lower? Man the pan was a pain to get loose.

 

On a side note I have found that diesel fuel works pretty good for softening up RTV.

 

 

I used this & a left hand drill bit to remove the broke bolt

 

2011-2012 F-150 Ecoboost. I have 2 of these to work on, truck #2 has not had full diag. On truck 1 I am planning on doing TSB 13-8-1 (revised bottom air deflector) Does not have P0430 so am not planning on doing the Cat 
Question...Does this seem to work & should the CAC be checked for excessive moisture? I noticed that none of the local dealers have the DL3Z-2021702-A in stock but they stock the updated CAC.
I am also going to do TSB 15-0003 since the oil is overfull & the truck has too many miles for 15N05. Any hope of the TSB 15-0003 taking care of the fact that it has a sooty tailpipe & a puff of black smoke on heavy accel/cold?

Anybody using the replacement parts list? Why is this not available to the parts people also, since most need all the help they can get

Oh yeah for any discrepancies always refer to the online WSM for the most up to date info