snw blue by you

Got NGS?

Find your 7.3L diesel kit, the gauge bar is there. There is nothing else in your tool room that looks like it, and there is no reason for anyone, other than a diesel tech to use or have it. Read your service pubs for info and hook ups. You ARE a newbie! Welcome to the world of Ford diesels. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/puke.gif

Ditto

Ditto

Yes, and around to the front. They are fairly easy to replace and there is a special tool to remove the connectors, look it up in the service manual, as I don't know the #. The plug gets hard and brittle, and the o-rings leak, no big deal. Best of luck newbie! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hitthefan.gif

It's to bad we won't be able to warranty it on the F-Series. What would be nice is to see Ford just put on themselves. That would probably take a 1 year case study! I for one will order one and start showing it to my customers, and give them the option to replace it. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

Stupid is as stupid does! To quote Carlos Mendoza "deet dee dee"

Regarding the thread "F-450 from hell" there was an issue with testing fuel pressure while mobile. Everything you need is available from the Home Depot, or other home improvement/hardware stores. 1/4" polyethelyne tube,compression fittings,and adapters for the fuel pressure test port and your mechanical gauge are all available in the plumbing dept. If I remember correctly the tube is in 25'lengths, so you can make it as long as you want. This was showed to me by a Navistar engineer, is so simple it's stupid, and cost a total of around 5 bucks! I use this all the time , and it is easy to switch from a diesel to a gasser. Screw everything else, this works!

Keith, I do this with both offset and parallel lifts, I place 2x4 boards on the lift pads and run them at a slight angle to the pinch rail. I then take rachet or pull through tie downs . and loop them around the rear lift arm and attach the hooks to the door latch on the body. I have done regular cabs, super and crew cabs this way, and have not hade any problems. The only thing that sucks about the crews is getting at the mid position body bolts. If you gave it some forethought you can do this w/o opening the brake system. Good luck, the first one can be a little intimidating. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

What a jagoff! Wish I had some advice, but thankfully, I have not had to deal with that abortion yet, other than the recalls.Best of luck! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/puke.gif

Hell, in my shop it would be warranty no question.All the customer has to do is whine! What was the point in showing the Fordstar broadcast about modified and lack of maint vehicles,and how the warrany status can be changed? Best of luck Keith.

Keith, a couple that were missed, cooler housing leaks[external]and oil filter caps. Both, by the way, have SSMs concerning leaks. Good poll just the same! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rockon.gif

Neither do I,and my point is, don't waste your time. Unless there is #6 oil going through the HP oil system, a cracked standpipe will not cause this issue, a leak is a leak, hot, cold, doesn't matter, temp is not going to effect it. However temp will effect the operation of the HPOP While your wasting time plugging and filling a pipe with fluid, looking for cracks that can't be seen with the naked eye, I'm well on my way to actually fixing the damn thing. That being said, I'm done wasting time with this post.

If the system is deadheaded, using WDS [or NGS, as WDS is not always available!]you should get an ICP reading of 2700 to 3000 psi, cold, hot, doesn't matter. Simple as that! You never forget your first pump! wasted boocoo time. NEVER AGAIN! Stop screwing around, and replace the pump. And another thing, if I am pulling the standpipes, you can bet your ass they are getting replaced.

I don't mean to argue with you, but what is it exactly that you do.Parts of your post are laughable at best. I get the feeling you are not working exclusivly on diesels, otherwise I believe your post would be very different. I am the ONLY diesel tech in our shop, when I get one truck finished there are 2 more to replace it. You are obviously not bent over a grill or fender 6-8 hrs a day. I am 41, younger than some on this board, and my body hurts 24-7. Go ahead and do a HPOP in less than 6 hrs, turbo and y-pipe in 2.3hrs, PLEASE. I want a days pay for a days work, not to much to ask for, and pay comesurate with experience, and what I bring to the table to make a successful dealership. NOT TO BE, my friend, not to be. To achieve the numbers stated above I would have to produce a minimum of 100 hrs per week. Who is he trying to kid! Hence all the previous posts that call his bluff. To me it's all bullshit! The only satisfaction I get is speaking to a satisfied and happy customer.

See post below

Unless I am reading the post incorrectly,the only problem with this logic, is that he replaced the stand pipes to no avail. In my experience with the hotline, they will never tell you what the actual failure is, but they will have you replace every part in the HP oil system until the pump is all that is left. IN THE MEANTIME YOU HAVE WASTED UNTOLD HOURS!, and look like a complete boob in the eyes of your SM. When I took the Diesel Perf. class 3 weeks ago, I was the only tech that had even seen an HPOP, let alone replace one, sorry, make that 15 and counting! It is my personal experience that leaking standpipes and or o-rings, will either have the effect of a complete no start, or a rough run/random miss. Until I see otherwise I don't believe that it will cause a cold/hot start issue, loss of pressure in the system is just that, I don't care what year 6.0L it is. Of course, if the diag procedures are followed, it should make it easier. If you air test and command IPR closed and there is no leak, HPOP. "HPOP pump failures are extremely rare, it is something we very rarely see" . Ford Technical Hotline. Thats because we techs that actually fix these damn things have given up calling. If he keeps going, they will have him replacing the PCM, before the HPOP. This is just my opinion based on experience and training, I could be wrong.

Sound like a HPOP or base oil pump failure when hot, you obviously have an ICP issue [too low when hot]so forget about everything else. If the stand pipes were at issue, the engine would never start. If you had leaking o-rings etc, the engine would never start or at the very least run like a bag of shit[technical term]all the time. You have good ICP when cold, but low when hot, think rotating parts, heat expansion, etc. Verify base oil pressure[2 ways- if gauge registers there is at least 12psi, remove filter close the drain and have someone crank engine, housing should fill w/i 10 sec.]If that checks ok, replace the HPOP,and while your at it, might as well throw an ICP sensor at it[surprised the hotline didn't tell you to do that as well]. BEEN THERE,DONE THAT!

I am not sure I am understanding this. What ops are they cutting? I did not see or read the message. Where does it say that non cert techs are allowed to repair diesels? For Christs sake, I spent the last 3 months doing double punches so the shop would get paid until I got diesel perf. Now that I have complete certification I don't need it? BTW, we have a guy w/ 6.0L certs that couldn't find his ass from his elbow on a 6.0L. Thats why I have been doing ALL the repairs

An 03 HPOP, 04 random miss, 04 turbo, 05 EGR cooler, Help! Someone wake me from this nightmare, please. How did I get here?

Has anyone ever seen an ICP sensor just come apart? I have an '04 that came in on Friday with a horendous oil leak [EXXON VALDEZ]. Upon insp I determined it came from the top of the engine and not a rear main. I told the customer not to drive it, but off he went.It was towed in over the weekend, now also w/ a MIL concern and crank no start. I looked at the ICP and the electronics package was missing, wierd, never seen it before. Just wondering if anyone else has come across this. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif

Doing headgaskets & EGR cooler right now on an 04 H-D w/ a Banks 6GUN tuner, this thing would do 150' burnouts. Customer pay, and after the explaination why, he understands, he also understands that I am not reinstalling the tuner because of the damage it causes /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/poke.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer2.gif

Damn, Thats funny! Just who would be working on these if they were available in the states? Not me! I'm to damn busy fixing the current crop of rattlers! OH NO! I just remembered you can't diag or repair diesels unless you're diesel certified, that is is if you want your warranty money. Remember, there is no such thing as diesel shop competency. Cool engines though. I wonder if that is the common rail system we'll see on the 6.4 /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif

Since this is the first internally failed cooler I've seen, my question is; Can I get away with just replacing the cooler, or is this indicitive of a head gasket issue as well? Diag lead me to the EGR valve and removal revealed a soaked valve and a significant amount of coolant in the intake. By the way ,400 psi in each cylinder cold. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif

Thanks guys. Thankfully 5&7 came out after much pulling and cursing, 1&3 I was able to drill and remove w/ a hose removal tool. I removed the vacuum res. and valve cover for additional access. Thanks again! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif