snw blue by you

Owner's personal rig. 2015 F450 Platinum 4X4. Tech performed a service after replacing a fractured fuel supply line from the HPFP to the LS rail. It is the line on the RS of the pump standing in front of the truck. History has revealed that this line has been replaced a total of 3 times so far. All isolators are present, so vibration does not appear to be the issue. Anyways, filters have been replaced but now the truck will not pass the high pressure test, fails at 2nd step, and sets P0093, and P0087. Additionally note that the secondary filter is extremely noisy at KOEO. PPT M for P0093 has not revealed any obvious issues, and unfortunately the tech disposed of the filters so visual inspection is out of the question. PCV, VCV, and FRP sensor all replaced to no avail, and with varying results. The owner asked me to step in, and additionally have another tech continue diag. I have placed a more senior tech on the concern yet we are not making any progress. Base FP is at 70 psi at all times, and the LP pump/filter housing has been replaced due to what appeared to be a crack inside. It has now been years since I have wrenched, and my time to help is limited due to management responsibilities, so any help is greatly appreciated.

Not for nothing but why are you trying to get any warranty coverage for this motor? You play, you pay. If we keep enabling these people, what is their motovation to stop? Is your management team afarid to tell the customer, it's time to open their wallet? What is the difference between a boob filling a tank with gas, and running the truck until it grenades, or a boob running a program until it grenades? None. We will gladly tell the boob that put gas in the tank, it will now cost him damn near 10 thousand dollars to repair his truck, so whats the issue with the guy who intentionally ran his motor on the ragged edge, and broke it?

What is happening when you test the injectors is this. They all buzz for approx 15 seconds then the test stops. They are no longer buzzed induvidually 3 times. I don't see the advantage, and the ear can longer decipher anything for you because it just sounds like a swarm of bees. Again, I checked the release notes, and did not see anything about these changes. I also checked broadcast messages, and the hotsheet. As far as the TCM goes, it has always been my understanding that this is a PMI module, so why is it no longer listed in PMI, and no longer listed in module reprogramming. Doesn't make sense.

I was helping one of my techs tonight, and noticed that KOEO INJ testing has changed. Did this happen with the 75 release? I also noticed that there is no programming available for the TCM. I checked release notes butdid not notice anything. I am usually good about keeping up to date but I suddenly feel like a fool. I checked 2 trucks, both '08 F550. Anyone?

To a tech, if within the next 10 days, they can tell me what is in the T-Stats pictured in my 6.4L thread Check out these pics... (I know what it is but don't know how it got there) and give a resonable explanation of how it got there. This will be purely subjective to my will, However, whoever has the best answer will get a shirt. I will post the winners answer on Feb 13th, and get all pertinent info at that time. What I can tell you is that only the fuel system has been previously repaired on this vehicle. It was not done by me but by a former tech who's talents I hold in high regard. He has moved on to a dealer in NC. Give it your best shot.

Hey Larry. Nope it's not goo.

Pics of the T-Stats from an '08 550

When towing a load up a grade. '08 550 LWB dump. Requires T-Stats, as EOT climbed to 265+ dgrsF I was able to verify the concern with the customer today while he was pulling his mini excavator. I will take pics tomorrow morning. Wait till you see what I found!!!

Hey guys. As an update, a new CMP sensor got the engine started and running. Like I said, I was not the one doing the repair so I did not know all the details. What I did know is that the truck drove into the shop. Upon initial reassembly, the timing was off. Seems the kid working on it tried to shortcut the job. He then had the pleasure of taking everything apart and doing it again, this time correctly. That is when he got the crank no start. Checking on Google for this concern and posting here, I learned that the CMP is pretty much in control of fuel delivery etc, I gave my .02 but a few other guys dicked around with it for 2 more days before finally coming to the conclusion the the CMP circuit was where the problem was. How it was determined that it was the sensor, I do not know but it got one and now all is right with the world, well maybe not but I'm sure you get the point. Thanks for the help

Larry, As long as the tech is cranking it, it smokes, even sounds as if it may start but if he ain't holding it is start, it's dead in the water. The scan tool shows engine RPM, however, there's that message. I kinda figure something with the tone ring or sensor but honestly, I'm not sure, and I don't know what to do for testing of the sensor or the ECM system itself. The truck is being worked on by a kid that has potential and wants to fix this thing but I think he got in over his head. I'm just trying to feed him any info I can to help him.

I have not been on for quite some time as I am busier than a one legged man is a butt kickin contest, and it pains me to return and seek help but here goes. We have a '98 Louisville in the shop that has a crank no start. Engine serial # is 6TS03744. It has a CMP sensor only. I am not the tech working on the truck but I have had to look at this thing for the last 6 weeks. Enough is enough. Some type of work was performed on this by a tech that is no longer with us a few months ago. It was brought back in due to a massive oil leak at the front cover. It was found that an o-ring had failed, and I guess it was the fault of the installer. As a result the front of the cam mushroomed. That was repaired, and the engine reassembled. Now it cranks, tries to run but will not. It was driven into the shop. The timing has been verified, however, and I don't know if it makes a difference but the procedure used was for the 3406 with a CKP and CMP sensor. The only info relayed by the ECM is no engine speed, which is obviously the root cause of the no start but the problem the tech has is that we do not have the correct manuals to troubleshoot this thing. Can someone help please! Thanks in advance, Stephen.

I hope all of you have a safe and happy holiday. May only the best of this life be bestowed on you and your famalies. Merry Christmas!

Yup, I still use that tool to remove the oil rail torx bolts with the proper bit. Wait, thats not it, I use the old ignition switch wrench, either way. Thanks to both. Seems like I used to remove the rockers so the injector could be turned and loosen the RS mount and used a prybar on the RS manifold to lift the motor just enough for the injector to clear but your way is much easier. Thanks again!

Been forever and a dogs age since I did one of these. Does anyone remember if number 3 comes out without all the fuss or am I loosening and removing mounts? Seems to me in the past I was able to remove them w/o but CRS has set in. BTW, I have not started yet, got a bunch of issues on this '99, just getting prepped. Thanks, Steph.

Black eyed peas, I love it! I have done a few of these but they were discovered while doing HPOP repairs, and they had not yet effected valve operation. Greg, this cooler was dry as a bone, no coolant use whatsoever. If a cooler were to fail it is my belief that this would be the starting point, with the cooler clogged with carbon the exhaust would have restricted flow which would concentrate exhaust temps in the cooler, eventually causing the failure of the tubes due to the temp increase and the inefficientcies of the cooler. The cause of the carbon? Extended idle times. I don't think this truck once started is shut off except at the end of the day, it is a delivery truck. Kieth, My only issue with the shortcuts is that much can be missed while performing them, resulting in comebacks. I have seen 2 trucks in this shop came back for these issues within days of techs performing the cooler "slide in" shortcut. This unit came in with a low power/smoking concern which I obviously and correctly diaged as an EGR concern, and addressed as well as could be hoped for without taking off the intake but as can be seen it was already to far gone. Luckily the new valve failed on my test drive and not after the customer had the truck returned to him. As I said, if there are techs that can shortcut and can live with it, more power to them I just believe that many problems are overlooked that way and additional damage can be created. That being said I believe a newbie SHOULD perform the job according to the service manual until they are famaliar with the procedures and has gained enough experience to be comfortable performing the job. As was explained to me while attending H-D service school so many years ago... "We are teaching you the correct way to perform a repair/service and accept that when you gain experience in the field you will find your own way, however since you don't currently know shit, you will do it according the the factory procedures".

EGR valve with 15 miles of use. DTCs P0404,P0405,P1335. Clogged valve and ports. I replaced the valve and cleaned the ports,vacuumed the intake, etc, etc. To actually fix the problem the intake had to be removed. The cooler is also being replaced as the front portion is clogged and filled with carbon marbles. With these engines I do not believe there are ANY shortcuts.

What PIDs are you looking at? What is VREF when concern is present? What is ICPV when concern is present? I do not know if it is listed here but on PTS under Power Stroke Central tab there is a list of suggested PIDs that should be monitored. I suggest you use them. I suggest the aforementioned PIDs because an issue with VREF can cause your concern, and a biased ICP sensor can cause your concern, there were also issues with the injector wire harness on these trucks that for no apparent reason would cause them to stall or do nothing more than idle. That being said I am not telling you that is the problem so don't just go off half cocked an throw parts at it. Perform a proper PID monitor and recording session as well as a harness wiggle test and you should find your issue

Nope, I still remove it all. Here are the reasons. Many an intake are full of carbon that has a tendency to come off in marble sized pieces and jam up the EGR valve, perfect time to either clean out the intake or replace it. Personally I rather clean them because I can run a significant M time punch to do this. As well, the odds of having debris get into the cylinder head intake ports are far to low for my liking, remember we are dealing with almost no clearance between the head and piston. The chances of fucking up go up exponentially, i.e, bending and or breaking components,alignment issues, etc, etc. I understand the need for efficency but sometimes the quickest way seems like the longest way and the payoff is a job well done that you know will not come back to bite you in the ass. If there are guys that can pull off repairs like that more power to them, however, I have seen far to many guys struggle with "The Shortcut" that would have finished the job sooner and with better results had they just followed the procedure in the service manual. With time you can develop quickness, you will have learned about how these things are put together and get over your fear and distaste for working on them. Again, the problem with this business rears it's ugly head. "How fast can I do this?" The question should be how do I do this right? Getting paid? Smart punches and a good story should get you all of time spent and maybe then some. My answer to the original question/post as should have been the same from any of the experienced techs is, did you read the service manual? No? Go do it, start the job and if you have a problem or don't understand something come get me and I will be happy to help, otherwise go away. I am sure some will see this answer as harsh, however, this is exactly how I was trained and it made me a far better tech, then if I had been spoon fed "shortcuts". The end result is you garner a rep for being a quality tech instead of a hammer and chisel guy, and as stated, with time and repetitiveness (God knows we have plenty of that!) comes quickness. Just my .02 Steph.

I have done an HPOP on this here '06 LCF and put it back together, 'cept I seem to have lost the backup washer for the small o-ring on the oil filter adapter. The three of them (3 washers, 3 o-rings) came off while removing the filter housing. I am very well orginized and keep small parts and fasteners in trays, yet this one damn part is missing and preventing me from puttin' the bitch together and starting it. I have spent days now with parts to no avail, I just keep getting more o-rings, DOH! The washers fit on top of the o-rings, here is the pic from the WSM. Has anyone got a part number?

Laughable at best! I listened to the show that featured the guys from DIS about performance yada yada yada. Increase your mileage 1-2 gpm gain 70+ hp. Yeah but it'll cost you a few grand. My take is if ya want power, open your wallet and suck it up. I always get a kick outta folks who ask me what kind of mileage I get from my '03 SVT Cobra. Being that I've been asked this thousands of time I started telling people that if you want fuel mileage or that is your primary concern over performance, buy a Focus. We can lie to ourselves all we want about more performance equals less throttle equals more mpg but in the end we're just lying to ourselves. That site is nothing more than a snakeoil pitch site. I agree with Jim's take on it.

My problem with the EGR cooler, how would coolant get into the oil pan? I don't see it. The truck is from Montana, guys passin' through to a job. History shows that both coolers were recently done. Noted radiator clogged with road debris, not the worse I've seen, however that would explain an engine running hotter than normal. The driver (hell the whole crew) doesn't look a day over 21 and he said the truck did not overheat. That being said, they sure did want the 2 gallons in change of scotch out of the truck, ya know, a mans gotta have his priorities. Ford suggested the cover due to cavitation but I don't see it. The only thing I noticed was the contact pattern on the impeller and the cover. The results of the boroscope were inconclusive but there is definetaly coolant working it's way into the oil pan, my thought is the oil cooler but in the game of odds I'm not sure, I have not had any fail yet but I'm thinking that is more likely that the head core plugs that Ford has suggested. To date my problems with the 6.4 have been sensors, EGR valves, and fuel system concerns, oh can't forget about the radiators but that is it for cooling system issues.

Also found coolant in oil pan, however it appears to be coolant that was put into system to perform leak testing and not coolant that has mixed with oil while engine was running, make sense? Front cover does not appear to be pourus but the impeller does look as if it was rubbing on the cover. Going to pressure test and check in pan with boroscope for leak. Any ideas?

What is the cause? Overfuelling ,piston melt and debris launched into the valve head? Why number 2?

I have this truck that has a returning DTC 343, excessive exhaust backpressure. This should be easy enough to figure out, however I am not familiar with the MD diagnostics and I am having a problem interpreting the PIDS, what little there are. The EBP sensor has been previously replaced, I installed a new connector yesterday and replaced a severely coked MAP sensor, a recal was performed last month so I am sure that, that is not it. Drive symptoms include a loss of power on a long incline, say cruise at 70-75 and scrub off 10 to 15 mph all the while depressing the accellerator to the floor with no increase in power or speed until leveling off. I also noticed that if stopped at a light idling for a minute or so, when going to accellerate, the engine stumbles and has no power, then suddenly it seems to be alright. Looking through history, the 343 has reared it's ugly head at least 4 previous times, and it's pretty obvious that the root cause has not been repaired. It may be something stupid, and I know I can fix this if I could only interpret the PIDS, and know which ones offer the most info. Thanks for any help. Stephen

I call bullshit! There is an obvious truth in that story but the rest of it is simple embelishment. His statements are simply not believable, and the story has obvious incorrect facts stated in it to draw sympathy from the rest of the malcontents.