snw blue by you

I found this obviously incorrect oil filter in a customer's '06 350. It was towed in as a crank, no start. Absolutely no ICP and I mean none, not even a little, ZERO psi. Sooooo... lets remove the filter and see if we have base pressure, WTF? No oil in housing and filter was fairly dry as well as obviously short. Install new filter and surprise surprise, it starts and runs. The customer says the filter has been in there for at least a month, maybe 2, I call bullshit as the drain valve was not even close to being closed, the filter is an inch shorter than OEM easy, and, well I know this guy and his stories change everytime you hear them. Whatever, frankly I don't care. I would however like to know what this filter goes to. Anybody? What say you Bruce?

Late '04 550, 37,800 miles. 2000 since FQR 6.0 install at another dealer. Starts normal when cold runs good for awile, stalls, then long crank or even no start. Quality is job none.... Remember there is only 2K on this rebuild. Dummies didn't torque down the tube bolts, they were finger tight. Just thought you'd like to know.

WOW, my partial got posted twice!!! I'm just trying to get my count up.

What the fuck! Pardon the French. '05 550 6.0L steamship. New customer, says he had said truck at another local dealer (will remain nameless, unless bribed) for the issue on 1 28 08. It was explained to him that the EGR had been replaced and the truck was all set. However within minutes of leaving the shop it started steaming again, so he went back. He was told that the engine required headgaskets, WTF! Now we all know that the exhaust will hold a fair amount of coolant and some may be thinking that this was the issue but wait, wouldn't you expect the tech to take a good long roadtest to cook that out? Anyways, that's not it. The customer, disgusted and with 2 other trucks in the shop decided to bring his vehicle to me based on recomendations from other Ford diesel owners in his line of business. He explained the issue, I verified it in his presence, and told him not worry, it would be taken care of. Pretty simple really, this 6oh required an EGR cooler along with a turbo, an EBP sensor, a MAP sensor, and some all around TLC to get it in tiptop shape. Now, what I found under the hood suggested that noone had been there for quite some time and what I saw was disturbing. The last warranty claim was made Feb. 07 and it was for 2 bank 2 injectors, well that explains why the FICM was not bolted on and just hanging on by it's connectors, but even better was the rear bolts were bottomed in the VC bracket, as well, the fresh air inlet was not attached at the FICM and only secured by it's worm clamp. VC bolts were not in their correct positions, the IAT2 sensor was damaged, and God only knows why but the hotside CAC tube hoses were deformed because the AC hose had been put on the wrong side of the tube causing misalignment. Well, long story short, the repair fixed the truck and all is well... Except, the customer brought the invoice from the other dealer when picking up his rig, and yup, right there in black and white it says EGR cooler, not EGR valve, customers mistake. Didn't show on OASIS, sooooo.. scramble to bill, close, and submit before the FRAUDS up the road have a chance of getting paid for work not performed, and we get stuck with a service parts failure and a repeat repair. Luckily for the customer it was a 3/36 repair, so no coinage outta' his pocket and luckily for me, I now get all of their business. I don't even care about warranty, I'll always have work. This one company has 15 Super Duties and a 650. Now, I can almost deal with crap like misdiag, shoddy work, etc. but flat out lying and stealing, it makes me sick. Nothing and I mean nothing was repaired or replaced on this vehicle 2 weeks ago, and I have the parts to prove it. Where do we draw the line? BTW, the coolant loss TSB actually pays fairly well.

Allow me to be sarcastic for a moment... The wheels on the toolbox go round and round, the wheels on the toolbox.... Well you get the point. Either you need to work with your management to get issues resolved, have a change in attitude, or move on. I try not to complicate the issues. coexistence is a two way street, and if you or your management are at odds and there is no way to reconcilliate, time for a divorce.

For my money I'd use the the style that was already installed. Is there anything different about the pump?

Thanks. Just an update. When I got the radiator out I found coolant tracking inside the fan shroud, on the LS CAC tube, fuel cooler hoses, LS frame, and LS battery box. The coolant track inside the shroud starts from the top left corner and tracks down towards the fan so I gotta' believe its leaking from the radiator, maybe even from the core, as the tank is outside the shroud (although I did not see any damage to the core) but that does not mean it would not track that way from a bad crimp. When I refill this one I will install dye for the future. Thanks for the input.

Nope it does not, at least according to the parts sales reference manual, of which I keep a copy. Sounds like an issue with the cover/low side pump. Also are you closing the check valve in the oil filter housing? Was it damaged in any way, allowing the oil to drain right back into the crankcase? Does it have oil in it? Why wasn't a long block installed if the heads were being replaced as well?

Has anyone seen these leak from anywhere else besides the radiator? Got one that is losing coolant, customer says tracks down LS frame rail behind tire, pressure tested, however, unable to see a leak. Noted back side of LS tank above fuel cooler was wet, so I ordered a radiator( and removed it today. Good points in the other thread, but first one will probably end up flagging around 3 hrs maybe less. Just looking for additional input

Not sure what to think.

A couple of pics of the tool I made to hold the front body nuts (position 1) For those that have removed cabs and had these 2 spin, you already know this is one of the most ill concieved designs of all time, ranks up there with drilling holes in Taurus floorboards. It is possibly one of the dumbest things I've seen. Anyways it is nothing more than an old 7/8" wrench modified to fit through the slot and can be hammered in if need be. It makes an incredibly stupid job quick and painless. Hope this helps and I highly recomend you have this at the ready when you remove that '08 cab.

One thing I remember from working with a Navistar engineer was that "If the oil gauge swings, you have base pressure, and oil is supplied to the HPOP" No need to check for flow. However if the needle does not move it is indicative of a low pressure pump failure or a massive high pressure leak. You have already determined the low pump works, move on to the high side. In my experience, hot or cold I have found that if the injector has failed ICP is very low, below 100 psi, and if it was an STC/HPOP related leak the ICP is usually in the 300 to 600 psi range. I only use this as a guide to prelim diag, gives me an idea where I am headed and is based on nothing more than what I have seen in 4 years of 6.0s, but its been fairly accurate

Completely normal. I've asked why but have yet to recieve an answer. Now, on an '08 if you have to access the nuts, they are all 21mm and BTW if you get involved in one of these, the second set of nuts (under the drivers and passengers footwells) can be accessed just like you would on the previous generation bodies. Do not! I repeat, do not try and access them as instructed in the TSB, (Remove inner fender and access through hole) It is an aggravating waste of time.

[quote name=mchan68 What tends to piss me off are the ones that brag that' date=' ".....well I can do that job in 2 hours..." as in trying to convey the underlying message that I'm better than you. For me, I always thought that most of us are here to HELP each other, not bash each other. And comments like that to be seen and heard by the wrong people are how warranty times get dropped (remember 8592A for 1.0?). I still take pride in carrying a repair making it look as though nothing was ever touched, except for the new part replaced. [/quote] Excellent comments! It is a work ethic I have tried to follow without exception in my career as a Ford dealership technician, and one that was taught to me by one of our members (FordMastertech) so many years ago. I didn't realize it at the time but his expectations of me made me the tech I am today. Back then (14 years ago) I thought he was a pompus ass that got off on riding me (Sorry Tim) but then I guess there was a reason he was part of the class of '99 Senior Masters. Stupid me. I don't turn a ton of hours but I am efficient and my employer does not lose money on me. Proper diag, a complete and properly executed job has paid my bills, allowed me to purchase a home, and have things that I want, like my '03 Cobra ragtop and '02 Indian Chief amongst other things, whilst allowing me to sleep soundly at night.

Maybe I'm wrong but it's probably the same kind of dealer that has techs that can do STC fittings in 2 hours. I see this kind of work ALOT, mostly on outta' state trucks passin through but some locals as well. I understand no one is perfect and shit happens but an obvious fuck up is just that, and is inexcusable. Ya look at history and shake your head. I've got one right now from Wisconsin, was at a local dealer back home last week for exactly the same concern, "crank, no start". So called tech replaced a CMP. Hello, this is a 6.0L not a 7.3L It loses RPM signal and has CKP DTCs. Freakin' doofus! Yes, I am high on diesel, go figure.

I used to fight with them, however as time has gone by and I have probably replaced somwhere around 50 of them it has become a great deal easier. I use a short 10mm wrench and a 13mm medium depth 3/8 drive impact swivel socket and a 3/8 Snap-On impact gun. If for some reason the bolts don't want to come out, I cut them with the gas axe. I've never had to lift the body for this procedure.

Not to pick on anyone, but I call bullshit. This reads like an FMC propaganda leaflet. Everything you say is contrary to the Ford diesel tech reality. Nice try but bullshit.

Does anybody remember an easy way to remove this thing without disassembling the RS adapter pipe or trimming the tranny boss? I can almost get over the adapter pipe but not quite. BTW, the tranny crossmember is out, so the downward swing is not the issue. Thanks for any help, Steph.

Keith, At the time of that disaster, the SM we had said he had been in a meeting with Ford coporate and that the comment was made that the engineer who changed the design of the retaining ring " Would be lucky if he ever engineered anything more than paperclips in the future" I was not there so I can not say for sure if that was what went down. However, I would not put it past the evil empire to put the blame on someone not directly in their employ. As far as pump replacement, the hotline told me that "If the chaffe was on the yellow wire, replace the pump. If it was on the red wire, replace the fuse".

Putting astonauts in an oxygen rich atmosphere is a mistake. allowing substandard electrics to be in that atmosphere is poor judgement and a lack of common sense, in that case it was also criminal. I did not say engineers were not smart, just lacking in common sense. BTW, I'm tired of fixing their "MISTAKES" as you put it. Torq Shift retaining ring anyone?

I can see where guys see this as money making, but sorry, I'll be entirely to busy doing 6.0 and 6.4L warranty work. 'Course first, I'll have to teach everyone else in the shop about what and what doesn't get replaced.

Couldn't agree more. About time my ass! Whats the matter with you Tim, not doin' enough warranty?

Think it depends on what happened on the 4th try.

Have absolutely no common sense, and that anytime they design something, a dirt under the fingernails non collegiate (That does not mean unschooled or untrained) professional mechanic needs to be standing next to him to point out the obvious. As a result, for instance, we would not be pulling cabs for stupid shit like this. Oh yeah! Brilliant! Lets just lay the wire on the head of a bolt without any protection from, whats that thing that diesels do? Vibrate? Rattle? For those that have never seen this, here ya go. Mind you, the chaffe is almost microscopic, smaller than a pinhead, but enough to cripple a $70,000+ business vehicle, this is not a happy customer, who sees his future with his 450 as bleak at best. Is it a problem? Yup. And they knew it, you can bank on it. The replacement part is now covered in loom. Got a bad feelin' I'll be doing more of these.