Aaron_Johnson

Yeah I have seen it on 2 engines. They wern't leaking when I took them apart, but did after I put them back together. To me they looked kinked before I took them apart.

Thanks Dwayne, that is exactly the same problem we are having. I think you are right that they are missing the fact that these engines have all had the valves replaced more than once

does anybody know how to decipher the date codes on egr valves i have found an egr valve application part# page which gives a part# but the date code is a bit of a riddle.

Where might this switch be located? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif By "bypass" switch do you mean a manual regen switch like Detroit and Mercedes have? I hope so, that might end my problems with our F-750.

lol yeah I did forget....might have something to do with working 30 days without a day off and a yard full of broken trucks /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crybaby2.gif It was parked outside, plugged in at -40C. The block heater is working. We are using Rotella T 10w30. Maybe we should switch to 0w or 5w something.

Bruce, Yes it has been verified with a guage, nothing abnormal was found with or in the oil filter housing. I checked the oil pump gears as the manual says and as you show in that pic. I have .006" between the outer gear and .008" as you show in that pic. The front cover and oil pump cover look fine, no wear or gouges. The hot oil pressure was above minimum spec through all of the ranges as per the wsm. The oil and filter were also changed before I posted. By fluke I sort of did what you said when I had the oil pan off. I took the filter out after the pan was off and judging by the ammt of oil on the floor there was more than a pint lol. I will verify by measuring next time. I cold started it again this morning and the oil pressure came right up....mind you it was only -20 this am not -40 like it has been. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

2006 F-250 6.0. Unit starts fine, but has no base oil pressure when cold. Has already wrecked one turbo. truck has to run for 2-3 minutes to get oil pressure (starts and stalls for 2-3 mins). I have removed and inspected the oil pump and regulator. The filter is clean and free of metal. I have also removed the pan and checked the pickup. Found a couple pieces of metal in the pan, one looks like a piece of bearing material and one looks like leftover debris from when the block was cast. I think I am heading towards a tear-down to find my cause, does anyone have any ideas otherwise?

Let me guess, happened this week when it was cold? 3 trucks here, same code. One also had a high pitch noise coming from the egr throttle plate. Hotline gave me the same "ebp sensor" response. They told me when the pcm doesnt see the increase in ebp it will attempt to move to vgt to increase backpressure. I suspect my trucks had frozen vgt actuators as I left them inside overnight and they were fine the next day....maybe i am way off here though.

I use a palte I made that bolts to where the turbo pedastal does and use a forklift with one fork removed. I find it easier than the ford lifting tool.

Jim -41 is that all? It was -47 here this am without the windchill....almost t-shirt weather down in SL....I wonder how cold it is in Dwayne's neck of the woods. I see a lot or repeat coking. I usually end up replacing the egr coolers as they are plugged solid, cleaning the turbos, replacing the egr valves and intakes. Most of the time they will need one or more injectos as well. Idle time is what does it up here because you simply can't shut them off at -40 they will never restart. Even plugged in they won't go. damned if you do damned if you don't kind of deal.

Just as a comparison I am getting around 14 around town and 20-22 on the highway in my 08 f-250 with a 5.4 and 3.73 gears 3800kms

I'm not so sure I buy the heat transfer argument either....does it affect it? probably....does it affect it enough to worry about? probably not. Most customers will opt for the cheapest repair possible anyhow. Is anyone using the inserts MAC tools sell? These are the only ones I have used. How do they compare to the others?

I wonder when you fix the vibration if the balance rate will go back to normal? Maybe it is the effect not the cause

Sorry Larry I didn't mean to sound like it was directed at you.....I think we share the same opinion on the unions....It sure is a different world up here /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

First of all I can't see how sucking dirty unfiltered oil from the pan and putting it on the valvetrain is a good idea at all. Any good conventional oil shouldn't break down fast enough to cause premature engine wear if you change it at the recommended intervals. Everyone knows diesels have way more carbon and particulte matter in the engine that needs to be suspended and filtered. Why would you ever install a bypass filter on a diesel engine? ALL of the Cat SOS results that I have seen with conventional vs synthetic oil show that with a synthetic there are about the same ammounts of metals in the oil as the conventional oil therefore indicating the same wear is taking place. Rotella T in a Cat, Delvac in a Detroit, Motorcraft in a Ford and a Cummins ain't worth changing the oil in LOL /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif As far as race engines go....used Mobil 1 20w50...less than 5 engine failures in 5 years....switched to Joe Gibbs Performance 20w50 for that extra 1/2 horsepower...5 engine failures in 1 year....think Mobil might be onto something /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif And no engine builder that I know recommends AMSOIL