Mekanik

Each bottle of dye is good for 5 quarts of oil. On a Power Stroke with a 15 Qt capacity you will need three bottles of dye. I think they are 1 oz. bottles. Using the proper concentration of dye to oil will assure that the dye will be visible under UV light. I also recommend that you use a high powered light such as the ones that connect to the vehicle battery. They actually project a broad beam of strong light. The battery powered pen-type are okay but they are just not as bright. Use the yellow enhancing eye glasses as well. I never thought about this. Maybe this is why oil dye never really works for me. I hate oil leaks. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crybaby2.gif

At the end of the day on Friday, this other tech. replaced the front Motorcraft pads with Ford pads and it fixed the car. This really confused me because he replaced the pads after the booster didn't fix the original problem. The car did not come in here with those Motorcraft pads. Also my Taraus has Motorcraft pads and it stops fine. Sometimes the only thing that matters is that the car leaves. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

I don't blame Ford for doing this. They might not feel that this huge truck is safe to go over 80mph. I really don't understand why any passenger car should have to go faster than this.

I have found that it is a bigger problem when you cut all 4 rotors with the pro cut lathe. I try really hard to avoid that situation. After I make a good cut, I will rotate the bits to a brand new edge and make 1 final cut. But it is a shallow cut. I only turn the bits 1 incrediment. I clean the rotors with hot soapy water and then blow it off with an air gun when I'm done. I'm usally very easy on the brakes anytime I do brake work, but I will try the 4 hard stop thing.

No this taraus in not equipped with a diesel, but there is a tech. here that is really racking his brain and I know that there are a lot of really bright techs that frequent these forums. We've got a 2000 taraus without abs in the shop that has a very hard brake effort. If you make a normal stop the pedal feels harder than normal, and the car does not want to stop. I drive a 2001 Taraus and this is how I got involved. The rear brakes are fairly new but the problem did not happen right after the brakes were replaced. We replaced the booster, master, front pads and rotors and replaced the height sensing proportining valve this morning. The problem is still there. They were comparing this car to mine. On my car the brake temps. are all about the same and on this car the rears were much colder than the front. Also they had a very hard time getting the brakes to lock-up. When I first drove the car, my initial feeling is that it has a booster problem, but the booster was already replaced. There is sufficent vaccum to the booster and the vaccum line was actually replaced too. Any help would be greatly appriceated.

My boss is trying to find a spot for me to work on LCF's. He asked me how long of a stall I will need. Can you guys please help me out here. How long of a stall will I need to work on the longest LCF, and still have room to tilt the cab forward and work around it? Thanks in advance for the help.

Did he buy it at your dealer?

This sounds like the customer's problem and not yours. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/readthis.gif Merry Christmas.

I haven't always done this, and I never had any troubles by not dong it, but I always check the torque of the upper bolt. I can usally get it to turn a little bit and the torgue is not that much. If a injector is installed and that upper bolt is not tightened to spec I can see how the copper washer would not seal properly.

I hope we will get one of those coffe table books at school.

I took the class Friday before I went home, and will be going to school in late Jan. I really hope this is a reliable engine. Yeah right, who am I trying to fool. I'm going to get very, very fast at body r&r.

That sounds like me. I hate that. I was doing ball joints on a Friday right before I went home. I didn't put the tires on because a " hourly kid" was going to replace them on Saturday. On the way home, I got this horrible feeling that I forgot to put one of the cotter pins in for of the tie rod nut. I called the dispacher 1st thing in the morning and asked him to walk out to my stall and double check. They were all there. I usally give a vehicle a good look over for that kind of stuff before I put the wheels on, but I didn't do that and it screwed up my routine.

Has anyone tried to do this in vehicle? I know that there is some info on the "other site" about doing the bedplate gaskets in the vehicle. I was going to try it the last one I had, but I wimped out and pulled the body and the engine. I'm sure it can be done, I'm just not sure if it is worth the shortcut. Thanks in advance.

Let it sit overnight in the cold. That is when those egr cooler hoses leak. And the coolant will drip down the back of the engine. Also look at the coolant resivoir bottle for coolant stains indicating an overflow condition. If it is headgaskets or Egr cooler it won't actually leak onto the ground except maybe from the tailpipe . But thats not the worst thing in the world if it is a egr cooler or headgasket.

Don't mess with the downpipe. Just disconnect it and it won't give you any trouble. When going back together the inlet pipe is the first pipe that I align and tighten the clamp. even before I tighten the 3 bolts. Good Luck

At least that didn't happen at work /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

Thanks for the info. Good article

There is not much fluid in the clutch system, so I will usally gravity bleed them, and then have someone pump up the pedal ONE time and then open the bleeder screw. Check the pedal assy. I have replaced a ton of pedal assys. because either the shaft that snaps into the master is worn out or the shaft up top inside the bracket is loose. Check for movement while depressing the clutch. Good Luck

What exactly are fire rings?

I would first try to start it with the ICP unplugged. The pid will default to 750PSI. Assuming it won't start, chack base oil pressure. Take the oil filter out and crank the engine over. You should see the canister fill up with oil. My guess is you have a bad high pressure pump. But you will probabaly need to leak test the high pressure oil system.

You know that was actually one of the scenarios that I was thinking of. I spent a lot of time wiggling harnesses and looking for a chaffed wire. Finally I unplugged the EP sensor, Started the truck and jumped Vref to ground. The truck stalled and would not even crank. I tried this with the ICP and the AP sensor. Same exact thing. So I hooked up the VDR and hopefully I will have a better idea of what is going on when it comes back. Right now I am all out of ideas and I haven't even verified it since it came back. Thanks.

I didn't have a chance to look at the 3 ap pids before it started to run ok. The hotline engineer told me that if 1 sensor fails and the pcm only lets the engine idle that it will set a bunch of codes.

I'm working on a 04 F350 with a 6.0L. Intermitently after this truck is driven it will have no pedal response. I verified this last week. I put a prop rod on the accelerator pedal and let it run at about 1800rpm for about 20min. Another tech said that it stopped running, so he went out to start it(with the prop rod off the accelerator pedal) and it would only idle. I got in it and verified it. It seemed to be idling low. I tried to do a KOER self test and got code p1725 for engine idling too low. By the time I pulled up some pids it was back to normal. The only dtc that it had was a contioious p0299. Hotline told me to check my icp for being biased and replace the ipr which I did. The truck is back. They say it does the same thing and I have not been able to verify it agian, and now I don't have any dtc's. The hotline engineer told me that if I had a bad ap sensor that I would have like 6 dtc's for it. Has anyone had one like this?

That other tech. that I'm helping told me today that the CMP wiring was chaffed on the right side of the accumilator. He said that he could not see it until he removed the bulkhead connector bracket. I'll keep that one in mind next time. Thanks

Well we were looking at this thing on Friday. The code would come back right away and the cmp failurepid was reading yes. I unplugged the alternator then started unplugging COP's one by one. By the time I got to cyl. #2 the pid read no. By Tuesday he told me that he could get the pid to go from no to yes very consistently by wiggling the wiring by the accumilator. I took the day off of work today and hopefully when I go in tomorrow I will find out exactly what was causing this dtc. Thank you for all the ideas and I will let you guys know what the final outcome is.