Mekanik

Do you guys see a lot of worn out input shafts on 6 speed ZF transminnions? Of the 2 that I have had out, both input shafts have been worn out from the pilot bearing that is basically blown to pieces.

Thats kind of what I was thinking. I have never worked on a truck that big and maybe this is a silly question, but is it possible there is supposed to be a baffle near the vent to prevent this from happening? Is there something spinning that is helping the fluid splash around more than normal?

Thank you. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

I am looking for the p/n for glow plug harnesses and glow plug o rings. My part's guy is stumped. I'm working on a 2004 E 450 with a 6.0L. Thanks in advance!!

I agree, but this was a brand new hose with a spring clamp already glued to the new hose. The other times I have been burned was with new hoses with new spring clamps too.

Hahahahaha!!!!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hahaha.gif I'm laughing my ass off right now. Thanks.

Am I the only one that has had problems with the spring type hose clamps found on radiator and heater hoses? I did radiator hoses in a 2004 F-Series with a 6.0l yesterday and I had a tough time getting the clamp to release where it goes to the front cover and then after it was all done, the hose would leak from that same connection when I was wiggling the lower hose, making sure it wasn't going to contact the steering gear like the origional hose did. I ended up having to disconnect the radiator hose to get the spring clamp off so I could use a worm clamp. I have probably been burned by this 3 times in the last 15 years. Does anyone ever have problems with theese clamps too? I'm tempted to just remove theese clamps from the hoses and use the trusty old worm clamp and never get burned by it agian. There is no way that I did any damage to the clamp when I was trying to get it to release.

I have gotten a couple broken ones out. First I put vice grips on the end so it dose'nt fall into the cylinder. Tap it down just a little bit to loosen it from the head and then just kind of work it out. If your lucky it will come out. You have soaked it with pennetrating oil and that may help your situation. The problem is the tips get swollen and it won't fit out of the glow plug hole. I have had to remove heads for this too.

Thats really good info. I was about to walk out the door the other night when a 2008 truck pulled in with a 6.4L. I overheard him telling the writer that something is wrong with his truck because the trucks idle goes up when he starts it cold. The idle even goes up sometimes when he's at a light. I tried to get involved to let him know that this is normal. The guy is really hard headed and insists that something is wrong. Oh yeah, and his other 2008 with a 6.4l does the same thing and it's at another dealer right now. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif Long story short... I cold start it with him the next morning and explain the 6.4 and all of it's unique features. I forgot toi mention this feature: /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gif. He bought this truck at another local dealer and told me that nobody explained this stuff to him. I suggested he reads his owner' manual and he said he didn't get one. Thanks agian for the info. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

So you had a leaking headgasket on a 4.5l?

I totally agree with Kieth, but I wanted to add that if you don't have at least 2in-hg, you are sucking in air. The most common culprit is clogged filters, and I have seen a ton of trucks mostly aft. axle tanks that are filled with rust, peeled tank liner, ect...

Ford should have a tsb for this. Remove oil pans, oil pump cover, oil filter, oil cooler, valve covers. Inspect and remove all metal pieses, and then install a new oil pick up with a fine screen.

I see. You try to the right thing and not just replace both coolers and headgaskets with every truck that loses coolant. I have read on the Ford message board how some people are just replacing everything. Thats really not the way I want to operate. I don't really understand how the 2nd truck passed the road test while monitoring the coolant pressure, but had coolant still coming out of the degas bottle. I think the real problem here is Ford is letting the dealers come up with thier own labor ops. If they said follow this peocedure and to replace the oil cooler and then road test and replace the headgaskets paid this much there wouldn't be so much trouble. My warranty administrator is afraid of getting us in trouble from paying me too much.

Seriously, if you get a truck with broken injectors and missing pieces, how far will you go to find them? Will Ford pay to remove the oil pans and the oil pump just to find the bits and pieces?

I realize that is how the tsb is written, and if you follow the instructions, you can take this engine apart and put it back together 3 times. I just wanted to know if this how other techs do it. The place I'm at right now, there is no way they would consider paying my to take it apart and re-assemble it. I don't agree with it. I did headgaskets with a couple injectors a few months ago and they initially paid me the 1.8 for injectors in addition to headgaskets and then Ford said no way. Thats overlap. When I pleaded my case to the warranty administrator he was like sorry, I'll make it up to you. Which he did.

Is that really how everyone does this repair?

We have 1 in the shop right now that has 2 injectors with broken snap rings and missing pieces. It got towed in for not having any icp pressure when hot. He has the valve covers off, and I suggested he remove the upper and lower pans. How much deeper should he have to dig to find these pieces. Maybe remove the oil pump cover?

I bet that has something to do with it. We'll be able to "adjust" the branch tube back in the proper position easier with this new fitting.

I read about this happening on another site. They were saying that the egr would get stuck open agian because the carbon wasn't completley cleaned out of the intake. Nobody mentioned anything about the turbo. It makes total sense though. That is a good test and I'll remember it.

Flat rate here too. I have always done pretty well getting paid like that. I'm a really motivated and driven person.

Is the branch tube actually leaking or is it just bent and not sealing on the fitting block?

You may have an intake leak. It does not have to be very big. I'm assuming you have a inferred ebp sensor. Check your intake hoses, cac hoses. You may want to smoke test the intake and the intercooler.

Why do you have to remove head bolts in a econoline? Has anyone done a branck tube in an econoline without removing the engine? I have dove 1 branch tube in a f series. It wasn't the worst thing in the world. I had one in a econoline that was a little bent and I just bent it back. Of course I air tested when I was done, but there were no problems.

I had one last week with the MIL lamp on and a dtc for a egt sensor. I did the reflash recall and then the truck would not crank over. I replaced the faulty egt sensor and it still wouldn't crank. Hotline told me that it needs to have the problem fixed first and then have the ign in the on position for 1 hour for it to crank. He said that we can trick the pcm by rocking the truck forward or backward to give it a vss signal. My solurtion: Jump the starter solinoid and then let it idle for 1 hour. I'll try that next time. This was a brand new truck and the customer was in my stall waiting for it to be delivered, and I was explaining how they had a bad sensor, but now it won't crank over. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

Didn't anyone notice that this truck is sucking in air and then more air than fuel and then no fuel at all? By the way, no inlet restriction at all means that the fuel line is sucking in air. I'm glad you found the problem. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif