Mekanik

So I guess that this test is offically bogus. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/boink3.gif

The pcm from the 04, is is an early build? If you put a different pcm in it and its fixed, then I would have to say that you have a bad pcm. I can't think of what would be different from automatic to manual, except the tcm of course. If there was something different, I don't see how it would mask another problem that the truck has.

I did it and it was a piece of cake (thanks to you guys). I didn't disconnect any lines other than the trans cooler lines going into the radiator. I probably broke even on the job. I took me a little over 2 hours. I can't believe how many coolers there were. I mean, is it really neccesary to have a cooler for the washer solvent and the brake fluid? Thanks agian! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

Ha-ha. Theese are great. Let me first say that there are some really smart people at hotline. There are also some people that have no buisness trying to help us. When I get someone who is really smart and helpful, I get thier name. Then some times I ask for them when I call. My favorite was about a year and a half ago when I suspected that a injector on my right bank was letting combustion gas into the fuel system. The baloon test was not showing a problem. The hotline engineer said, " Well why don't you just swap the injectous side to side. " All 8 injectors, he wanted me to just swap side to side like I was swapping a coil on plug to a different cylinder. I had to explain the whole flat rate concept like I was talking to my wife. I actually turned down a job offer to be a hotline engineer at a different company less than a year ago.

I have a 2008 f250 waiting for me tomorrow that needs a radiator. I know theese have been pretty common but this will be my 1st. I have already gotten some condolences and other techs wishing me luck. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/stooges.gif Are there any tricks or shortcuts?

Good idea. I have been doing the same thing on 6.0ls. It is amazing how many more small coolant leaks I will find in the morning after the truck sits overnight.

You mean it didn't clear up? That has happened a bunch of times to me. It will crank, stall and then sounds like no compression. Then it will fire up, run rough and then clear up in a couple seconds. Thats why I wait to clear the dtcs until after the engine has run for a little bit.

Can it be done? I made a few recordings last week on IDS that I would like to save to my computer.

Did you reset KAM, and perform a koeo self test? On some of these vehicles that is neccesary for the egr valve to be calibrated to the pcm. Did you do the VGT re-learn procedure? Do you still have dtcs? KOEO, KOER, Continious? Don't worry about the egr throttle plate that is not there. All of the 03s were like that. I agree with Jeff E. about the magnet test. I used to use that test a lot when Ford endorsed it. I also totally agree with Jim, that you need to start over and follow that diag. sheet very carefully. Good luck

What about your vgt learn pid? icp pressure and voltage when this problem is acting up? You still have good fuel pressure under load at wide open throttle right?

Me too. Just like I used to do on 88-92? Town Car, Grand Marquis 5.0l when I would replace the egr valve. On 6.0ls I do it after I scrape the carbon from the intake and after pressure testing the cooling system with the egr valve out with the back end jacked up to see if there was any coolant that leaked from the cooler. When I asked about this test, they say they heard it from either a hotline engineer or an International engineer. Either this test is bogus or I have let a lot of 6.0ls leave with clogged egr coolers. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

At this new shop I work at(I've been here since mid November), the guys are testing for a clogged egr cooler by seeing if the truck will run with the egr valve removed. When I first heard f this I was a little confused. I start almost every truck that I test for a leaking egr cooler and they all run. I have tried this 3 times since I started working here. The first one was going to get a egr cooler anyways because it was leaking. It ran fine. It was an early build, 2004 I think. The second started and stalled, but it would barely run with the egr valve in place and had a few bad injectors. It was either 2005 or 2006. The third one was today. It ran fine, but had a p1335. It was a 2005. It ran with the valve out and I could feel plenty of exaust gas from the port in the manifold. Personally I don't think it is an accurate test. Theese guys say that an engineer told them this is how to test a egr cooler for being clogged and I would love to hear what you guys think of this. Thanks in advance.

I agree with everyone else. If you can't hear the injector buzz, can you really expect it to work properly. I also wanted to mention that we have seen a lot of 7.3's that either won't start, hard start or start and stall if parked overnight in the sub-zero and aren't plugged in. They are much harder to start if they have 15w40 in them. Also make sure this thing has 2 good batteries in the truck. 1 more thing, a long long time ago, I had a 7.3 that ran like total crap, barely idled, smoked, ect... The truck had 8 sticking injectors and here is how I found out. With the engine idling, I opened the drain valve on the water seperator and the truck smothed out and ran much better. With less fuel pressure, the internal parts in the injector can move easier. Good luck!!!

I have done 2 in econolines. 1 was an ambulance, and the other was a little bus. I would say probably 12-14 hours. If it is just a redular van consider yourself lucky!!!

Wow, I can't believe that is only from 2000 miles.

If you do not have access to FMC then I cannot give you a link to one of thier sites. That would be wrong /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whistle.gif

I got that procedure too and after reading it, I chickened out and just pulled the body and engine like I have done in the past. I knew that if something went wrong, I would look like a total hack. This is kind if like in vehicle 7.3l oil pan replacement. Sure it could be done, but do you really want to do it that way? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

That has to be a really stuck valve to cause a pushrod to bend. But there has to be a reason why it got bent.

I totally agree. Spend some time here and you will learn tricks, understand the theory behind everything much better to know why something is doing what its doing. There are a lot of really knowlegable techs that frequent these forums. If you look at some older threads, there was one in the 6.0L section about shortcuts.

A 66 Shelby and a 1950 Chevy? Do you guys have the right scantools for theese old cars?

Thats why Tony is the Genius Member. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/notworthy.gif

You would think that a shop that works on so many diesels would have seen axle bolts break before. But then agian, they don't see any headgasket failures either. Or maybe headgaskets only fail from doing burnouts and shifting from reverse to drive too many times. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

That is absurd. It is people like that that give us a bad name. Tony, could you PM me to tell me what dealership this is? I'm curious.

Thats what I don't understand. It is the same engine in a f-series and a e-series. I didn't have a problem with the head bolts. I have not had to do a branch tube in an econoline yet, but why does the engine have to come out?

I had one on Friday. It turned out to have a leaking center seal that was causing the coking and parts were not avail. yet. I ended up puting a turbo in the truck.