Brad Clayton

Any idea what kinda boost it's making when that happens?

It may work for you guys down there, but up here it's no match for the brutality.

Quote: Owner replaced the cap and it also blew off When you make the above statement, do you mean the "o"-ring blew out the side between the lid and housing, or do you mean the lid physically blew off and bounced off the hood and hit the ground? 3.8L Mustangs and T-Birds were bad about "blowing" off the oil filter when the regulator in the oil pump housing would crap out, but really it would just blow the "o"-ring out.

Our shop has one and it self destructed the first time it was used. Our salt regiments are brutal on these wheels. I wasn't too impressed with the setup, kinda cheesy when you actually hold it compared to seeing in a catalog.

Got my results online today, and I am now the proud owner of an A-9 certification status.

Looking thru some old stuff here......and I had a good one a couple of weeks ago. Went to an eighteen wheeler repair shop to do a egr/oil cooler combo on my day off. These guys look down there noses at light duty diesels and would rather farm them out. So I go out every once in a while and fix something and everybody is happy. In the past I have always put the oil cooler in dry and just spun the starter over to prime it and the rails. But now I prime everything and fill it right to the gills. She starts on the second spin everytime. I've only got one day to do this and their hours are 7:30 to 5:00 so I didn't have time to fool around and I'm working in a strange shop. Well it came down to starting it and I hooked up a battery charger (as I always do), and now all ears are pointed my way. I spin 'er for 30 seconds, wait.....spin 'er again and no voooroooommm. Uh, spin it again and again, break out the go go juice and I still don't even have oil pressure on the dash. Now I'm confused. Has this guy been driving around with a broken gage? And most importantly why want this truck start. I ground the gage with a jumper wire and it still doesn't work. Then it all came clear, I forgot to plug in the two connectors of the engine harness on the left fender. Fired right up pronto after that. Oh well, made a lot of extra work for myself, but all is well and customer is tickeled pink to get dealer level service without giving up too much coin.

Wow, me and Bruce were just talking about this the other day. You didn't post this over at IATN did ya?

I forgot to mention that the inboard exhaust valve talked the number 5 piston into allowing it to give it a nice tatoo. I'm a gambling man, but I'm too cheap to gamble with actual cash so I use my bookable hours. So I'm putting all my chips on FQR. I will be checking the crank trigger wheel very closely though, if it comes down to that.

I think you may indeed be right. I just replaced one that another tech had put an oil cooler in and he didn't clean shit.

'05 6.0L torn down to the bare block. Something went thru the base oil pump and wiped it out. Right head is cracked. Pickup tube is full of zipties. EGR cooler is blown. Other than that she is a honey. Humbly and respectfully requesting an engine.

Ditto, been there done that.

I like replacing light bulbs!

Same principle, but I use a bent up hack saw type blade, kinda like a pumkin carver deal.

I use a half moon 10mm wrench on top and 1/2 deep socket on the bottom and they come right out. Takes longer to set the vehicle up on the lift than to actually remove those two upper bolts. Well worth it on my end because no mods are needed and the truck is completely back to factory when done.

Thought I would share my way of doing these, I'm sure this is a rehash for alot of us here, but maybe it can shed some light on other members. I am a visual kinda guy so I took some photos. Please note, engine is removed for clarity purposes only. So this is the point I am at after turbo removal only. Next I remove the top bolt only from each side of the up pipes. This allows the y-pipe to rock back and the bottom bolts do not need to be loosened. Now I remove the egr cooler clamp and slide it towards the cooler. Thats a nice head bolt or lack of, eh? Remove the bolts from the shield going to the cover only. Now I can rock the y-pipe back and retrieve the gasket. The gap created here allows enough room to get the clamp out and the pump cover shield mounting boss to slide thru with ease. This setup works well for really tight IPR valves. I've seen guys come thru way off to the side of the intake with swivels and extensions. I just slide the socket on then the ratchet and give it hell. Manual dexterity skills come in handy here. I use this 5/16 wrench to sneak in under the cooler. The first two will be trapped, the back one can be removed completely. Removing the last bolt completely. The last bolt can be taken out due to this neck down here. Now with all the bolts removed and loosened, I put an old turbo drain tube in to use as a prying devise so as not to damage the cover. I have try many methods in the past and this one works as slick as frog hair without any adverse effects. Now I just lift the cover at this angle and make sure the mounting boss slides thru the circled area. This allows the top area to clear the y-pipe with ease and absolutely no frustration what so ever. Be sure to keep a steady hand and these two bolts will stay put. And that's it, once the pump is out and back in, the cover goes on in the exact reverse order. Total job time is less than 4 hours, and usually 3 if the rear cover gasket seperates easily.

Looks like my mother-in-law could have been behind the wheel of that one. She wanted me to drive her Honda Civic to work and change the oil or something. I get 2 blocks from the house and I can barely get the thing into gear and or shift gears, then it's growlin like a son of a bitch on the highway. I get to work and check the trans fluid and it's bone dry and reaks of burned up parts. This is a car she drives everyday and puts on 300 miles a week, and she had no clue that there was a problem or something was out of the ordinary.

How's that bumper sticker go....."I'd rather be Cummin that Strokin".

Escapes exhibit the strangest tire wear of any vehicle I have ever seen.

That is an excellent idea, about marking the cooler. I might get the shop to invest in an engraver. edit for sp

If that automotive tech thing doesn't pan out for ya, sounds like a career in archeology could be in your future.

clicky here split cycle engine

Never seen it before, but the internals look like an '03 cooler and they do seem to hold up better. Matter of fact I've never replaced a failed cooler in an '03.

I imagine they would run a little hotter for a little longer down there in your neck of the woods. What's your temp right now? 100 degrees 102 in the shade? Yesterday it was in the 40's here and we had the doors in the shop shut all day. I wore a jacket to and from work. Hard to believe it's gonna be June tomorrow.

The few I've done were close enough for goverment work, afterwards.