Brad Clayton

I think the dealer ought to buy you a few lunches for going the extra effort, for sure. We seem to get forgot about when it comes to things like this, esp. when the idea works. Of course I have has some bad ideas they just can't seem to forget about.

Never had to fool with that scenario, but it sounds good to me as long as the dowel doesn't put pressure on the gasket where the step portion will be sitting on it.

It's amazing what you can find hanging around the sides of these diesels. Glad to here its fixed

Quote: it does not seem as though much has changed with the beds on these things Who you kiddin'? Every damn thing is different on these things.

Got the hose in and installed. Taking the grille out is definitely the way to go when working on the secondary hoses or t-stats on the secondary radiator. outlet to egr cooler inlet low temperature t-stat outlet to trans cooler inlet

Truck has 11,000 miles on it.

The tube is the boroscope.

This is lifted from the PCED: P026A charge air cooler efficiency below threshold. Description: The powertrain control module (PCM) continuously monitors the charge air cooler (CAC) efficiency. If the PCM detects that the modeled CAC efficiency differs from the measured CAC efficiency by more than a calibrated value for 10 seconds, the DTC sets. Possible Causes: • Low CAC coolant level • Restricted CAC Diagnostic Aids: Check the CAC system for low fluid level, cracked, restricted or misrouted coolant lines, cracked or restricted heat exchanger. Simple enough, I pop the hood and look around and the secondary cooling system degas bottle is empty. I fill it and pressure test it (5 psi ). Look under the truck and it looks like the fruit punch Kool-Aid pitcher dude got ran over. Closer inspection reveals this: This is a weird one. The protective wrap goes all the way up to the red line. The hose is zip tied to the shroud and I cut it so I could pull the wrap down to look. With the hose in it's natural position, the damaged section of hose sits at the circled area and does not touch anything. Only thing I can think is it was damaged somehow when it was made. So a new EGR cooler supply hose and fill and bleed and it's right as rain.

The cab is in the process of coming off.

Well, ready for round two. Another 6.7 came in around 5 today with number 5 injector blown out of the head and head scored badly. My parts list will fit the bill perfectly!

I think he does a great job, unfortunately he his all done and moving back to Virginia.

The fleet companies put the valves in, they didn't come factory equipped.

A lot of the fleet vehicles I used to work on down south had this valve. They were all 7.3's back then and oil changes were oh so easy with it. They drain a lot slower but no mess and no stripped plugs and what-not.

That is classic! Great pick me up.

Ford must have complete fucking idiots reviewing diesel claims. I seriously think they had a shortage and just hired extras from reality shows such as Jersey Shore, and so-on. Warranty guy called me in the office and said they wanted to know why all the parts charged on a short block claim were needed. My first thought was "your joking right?" which then turned into "you gotta be fucking kidding me". So we had to write a reply which went like this: short block=casual part valve grind set=needed to install heads lower gasket set=needed to install upper and lower oil pans rear main=needed to seal rear crank front cover gasket..........and on and on and on and on This went for every frickin part on that frickin ticket.

Scratch that idea, forgot you were working on a 97 and not a returnless system.

Quote: Could I have something as simple as air I have seen the occasional 7.3 get air bound. An easy way to test is to pull the fuel plug out of the front of the right head shown here in one of Bruce's photos. If it's air bound you will get a nice hissing sound like removing a radiator cap, followed by lots of bubbles.

JR Saunders from the Boston training center and myself, believe that the torque to yield bolt was the culprit. The bolt for the broken hold down was finger tight. If the old saying "tight is right" holds true then this was definitely wrong. I haven't heard anything from Ford. But JR has heard a lot from other techs in the Boston region with the same thing happening and it has been loose bolts every time so far.

Well the job is all done. I think I would do the next one cab off, especially if it involves both heads. Likes: dowel pins. There are a lot of dowels, where the 6.4 doesn't have enough, the 6.7 makes up for it. The head is doweled obviously, the rockers are pinned, the power steering bracket is pinned, the valve cover is pinned, the exhaust manifold uses studs to the head. It makes reassembly very easy. The workshop manual is very close to what you actually need to do in the real world. One exception is they want you to remove the power steering pump before removing the bracket from the head. That step is definitely a waste of time. Dislikes: Torquing the head bolts was a serious back breaker. The oil spray bar. The hyper links in the shop manual, you can really get lost in those things and forget what the hell you were doing in the first place. I can shave a couple hours off the next job just by not staring at the puter. There aint too much metal under the hood and everything is kinda delicate. The fuel return line has to be handle with extreme care. The injector sound deadeners are cheesy. I think torque to yield injector bolts are gonna haunt us. All-in-all I like the overall picture. It is very strange yet neat working on an engine that goes against conventional placement of parts. I like the 6 head bolts per cylinder, we should never have a failed head gasket needing head removal. Unfortunately the injector bolt might screw up the whole deal. Time will tell.

I documented the repair on this 6.7 left head replacement. The chances that you guys will do the same repair are slim but it might still help with parts documentation. For anyone who wants the complete file that isn't broken up into less than 2mb sections pm me and I will email it to you.I also have a file for 6.4 short block assembly with all the parts needed. I made it up about 3 years ago, way before the enhanced short block was available and I just sat on it. A couple of guys on here have it and it comes in handy for quite a few repairs.The way I use these files, is to save them to my desk top at work (allows for easy instant opening), open the parts list and print then open the build file and match any picture numbers to look at any parts in question. I then highlight what I want and hand it off to the parts counter, no muss no fuss. The picture numbers follow the page numbers so you can just punch in the number to call it up. 6.7 Liter left head build up.pdf 6.7 liter left head replacement parts.pdf

On the bright side, this guy should be able to beat any speeding ticket in a court of law, hands down.

I have had some luck with tightening the gear box just a touch.

Take your time sir, surprised to see you back on so quick but glad at the same time. I talked to Aaron and it seems it takes an epidemic to get a hello out of him eh? You know how children are, once they are out of the house, you never hear from them.

I avoid removing the harness at all cost. They absolutely will not come apart, here in Vermont. Luckily we see very few glow plug failures and the relative compression test exist. I think I have replaced 3 faulty 6.0 liter glow plugs in my career. When I do head gaskets, I remove the rocker bridge and knock the harness out from the back side with a ball peen hammer! That is the only way to save them.