dieseldoc

I am 90% sure it has the metal bail type clip, not the plastic tabs. I will look at one in the parts bin tomorrow and let you guys know. I just looked the number up in my notes.

Dont have a ford part# but cat has a pigtail available pn# 156-7106 cost is 20$ us. It is used on the 3126/c7 injectors, IVA connectors and our ipr valve as well.

We have a thick block of aluminum that has a handle on it. We use a very fine emery paper on it. Scrape the chunks off and use the block. Believe it or not it takes the same time to clean a block and head with the the aluminum block. Sometimes less time than with a wizzer wheel, and you dont have to worry about wrecking anything. Your arms will get tired long before you mess anything up.

I have used dells for years because that is what my shop buys us. I have not been super impressed with the ones I have had. I was looking at an HP and I like it, the only thing was that it had vista. I will have to do some more shopping and see what I can get that has xp Pro. I am finally comfortable using xp pro and dont want to switch and learn something new. I have heard the horror stories especially yours bruce with vista. Being that I am not a computer guru I want something I know will work well. Thanks for the info guys.

I am sure we have covered this before, but couldnt find anything with the search tool. How has IDS been working with vista? Am also looking for the requirements of the computer for ids? Will keep looking and let you know if I find it. I am shopping for a new laptop and want to make sure if I get one it work well with ids

It is a state of the art piece of machinery it is made of concrete and rebar and it has heat in the winter. Yeah its the floor. I somedays wish that I was working on a little bit smaller stuff. I know I have moved a zf5 spd around a bit by hand to get things lined up. At work I have a 5 foot pry bar I use to massage things into place sometimes. Every job has its good and bad. I have a buddy that works at a mine in wyoming and the stuff he works on is two or three times the size of the stuff I work on.

A Caterpillar 10 spd powershift. It stands about 4 feet tall and 2 feet wide. Weighs in at 1,700 lbs(750 kg for our canadian friends)Takes 20 hours to remove, 35 hours to rebuild, and 20 hours to install.

It is my personal pick-up(wish I hadnt bought it but none the less have to take care of it). I have been switching back and forth from 10w30 in the winter to 15w40 in the summer. I was trying to streamline my parts stock to one weight of oil. I have however decided the the hell with it, I will just follow the book. I put 15w40 in it. It gets me to work, yet it pulls a trailer every weekend down at the farm. I was thinking about this saturday night when I couldn't sleep. I was thinking along the same lines as dwayne and how many oil cooler failures, etc. you guys have been seeing. The 6.0 needs all the help it can get. My pick-up has a 6 speed which I think helps a lot. I have noticed that in the fleet at work the 6.0s with manuals have had very few issues while the trucks with the torqueshift have had lots of issues. I have two 7.3s that I own and my buddies all have 7.3s as well. So I might as well just keep the 15-40 in the shop. Thanks for the thoughts guys

I have a 90 model year cat challenger 65 with a puked trans. Just got done ordering parts and we are at 8000 bucks. No labor on the bill for R&I or recondition trans yet. The customer will be happy. Not sure why he is fixing it. It is only about a 10,000 dollar tractor. I guess a bill for 15,000 is a lot less than 325,000 for a new one.

What is your guys opinion on running 10w30 year round. My particular climate here never gets above 90 deg and the rare occasion it does it usually doesnt last long. I use the pick-up to pull on the weekends(pulls the wifes horse trailer). I can get 10w30 out of the reel year round and it is much cheaper than buying 15w40 by the gallon jug. I know ford reccomends using 15w40 when pulling and in the summer. I would think that 10w30 would be fine here since we usually dont get reall hot, just want to see what other peoples opinions are. thanks for the input.

I have had no real troubles with my personal 6.0 I do drive it back and forth to work every day, however it pulls a trailer just about every weekend. I use it at the farm, it gets me to work. BUT it has to work on my time off. It hauls hay,livestock, pick-ups, old tractors and the like. My 6.0 has had one egr valve(at 2000 mi. for electrical failure), and a turbo pedestal( to fix the drone at 1800 rpms). Plenty of oil and filter, and fuel filter changes. The 6.0 is a decent engine when used for and how it was designed to be used. It is no 7.3 and never will be, but it is ok. just my two cents

I am with you on this one jim. If your customer comes to you with a request that you are not comfortable with or equipped to handle. It is best to be honsest with them. Tell them you dont have the tooling or training to handle that particular concern but here is a great place to take it for that concern. I think they will be much more impressed with your honesty and professionalism than when they get a bill for a thousand dollars and there concern isnt taken care of. People have the perception that we as "mechanics" are crooks looking to steal there money. If we dont realize our abilities and throw our customers money away than there perception will quickly become a reality. The customer called me today and said they have an appointment with the local dealer and will be taking it to them. I told them it was a good choice and to give me a call with any future concerns and will take care of them. I informed them that I can handle most of there issues but that there are a few jobs best handled by the dealer, restraint systems being one of those. If anybody has any thoughts on how I could have handled that better I am all ears. I want to do the best I can and what is best for my customers. Thanks again for all the input guys

The paint keeps the oil leaks down. We have a couple machine we sell that the engine come to them cat yellow and than they paint them gray or black and the put it on thick. The first time you take a bolt out you have to pound your sockets on with a hammer to get the paint to break up and come off.

Apparently the light came on a while ago and than after that the seat belts would not retract and you could not pull them out anymore. The customer took it to another indy shop where they slapped some seat belts in it and said good enough. My thoughts would be maybe when there is a light on in the dash we should check it out. There is obviously a reason the seat belts dont work anymore. Perhaps we should find the root cause of the issue before we start throwing 700 dollars worth of parts in it. People that throw parts and fix things by chance annoy the hell out of me. Read a little first and understand the system before you just put a band-aid on it. Restraint systems are not something you can just fuck around on. The customer told me they dont have a scan tool at the shop they took it to. How do you have an automotive repair business these days and not have a scan tool. You can a piece of shit at napa for 200 bucks that will give you a code. Whoa. . . Ranting is over it has been a bad day at the office today. It is a super cab, with a bench seat I believe. I have not seen the vehicle yet. They said they would drop it by on friday and havent seen it yet.

I think I will tell them to go to the dealer for this repair. As much as I like to learn something new. . . I think it will be better handled by the dealer this time around. When it comes to restraint systems there is so much liability involved that I would rather not take this issue on. When I read through the workshop manual there is a page of disclaimers and warnings before every test or item discussed. The best bet for this vehicle is to visit the factory trained technician with the factory tooling. Thanks for responding so quickly jim

2004 F250. Air bag light on and seat belts wont roll out. Customer replace seat belts themselves. The other day they were driving down the road and heard a bang and the seat belts locked up again. I havent had time to look at it yet hopefully tomorrow. Curious if the air bag light and seat belt issue are connected, or if you guys have run into this before? Going to read up on it tonight hopefully, but any heads up or tips appreciated. Thanks

I gave him my estimate, said he would get back to me. I will see how it goes if he brings it to me to fix. Thanks for the input guys.

My personal 96 F350 with 7.3 is in need of sway bar bushings again. I am wondering if anyone has found a good place to get poly bushings? I put poly bushings in my 66 mustang and wow what a difference. Also curious if they came factory with a steering stabilizer? It looks like there is an eye for one end of the stabilizer to mount on the axle.

Probably not. Without much detail: Peoples pets, feminine products, human finger, etc. etc. Its not so much the sight of the things as the woderfual aroma that things have after they have had time to perculate in a nice warm damp place. It is fantastic on a 90 deg humid day. Enough of the gross stuff. I am sorry to hear that you guys are plagued with the concrete clay like we are. We had a very severe flood this year and after it was over the machines and our service trucks were covered in it. Not near as bad as your vehicles appear to be. I had to put a clutch in one of our service trucks afterwards it was a dirty experience. The upside to the clay is that it is great for building dikes to keep the water out.

Our shop wheelbarrow is actually a cat 930 wheel loader. We keep to 55 gallon drums on wheels that you shovel the shit into than haul it out back with the wheel loader. Than once every two weeks the pumper truck comes to suck out the floor drain. Granted we are a heavy equipment dealer. If you want a crappy job stop by sometime when a landfill dozer or compactor comes in. Hope you are up on all of your shots!! We have found things in the belly pans of dozers that would make even the toughes guy get a sick belly. I dont envy you guys with the mud up there in the oil patch. Is your mud dirt or clay? we have clay here that turns to concrete when it dries I hope you dont have to deal with that

I think I will probably pull the engine to do it. If he brings it back to me. I told him I would do some research and get back to him. Especially being a bit of a 6.0 virgin when it comes to major work. I would really like to be able to see exactly what I am doing. Once the first one is done you kind of know what to expect, and in chassis wouldnt be to intimidating.

is it possible to install studs cab on? I have a customer that needs all 3 and this is the second time around for head gaskets. Its off warranty now and he wants to put studs in this time. He has the time and wants me to do the job. The only trouble is at my shop I dont have a hoist to lift the cab.

I would reccomend the alliants. I put a set into my buddy's 94 with 250,000 mi on it and compression was just below 300 psi. It ran like crap and wouldnt start below 50 degrees without being plugged in. I put in a set of alliants and it was like a new engine. It started this winter with out being plugged in at 15 below f. and hadnt been running in 2 weeks. I have put in several full sets and many singles with no trouble at all.

Thanks guys. I always make sure the oil and fuel is out of the bolt holes. I had a co-worker that got burned by not sucking the oil out. Thanks for the tip FLMMAZ. Its been quite a while since I have had to do an injector on 5 or 7. Have a great weekend everybody.

I have a 96' f350 in for injector reseal. My service information dvds are not working right now. Can you guys help me out. I need the torque for the hold down bolt, and oil deflector bolt. One other thing do you guys take the heater box apart to replace the injectors on the right side or are you able to get them out, clean the bore and install with out? Thanks a lot guys, appreciate it.