BrunoWilimek

My memory is hazy on this, bit I seem to recall being told that you can scope the HPOP pattern to see if it is failing. This is for a pump that still puts out enough pressure at times to allow engine to run. There should be a very regular pattern of peaks. If every third peak is missing, the pump is bad. The problem is, I can't seem to remember what sensor needs to be hooked to to get this pattern. Am I correct on this or is my fuzzy memory imagining this scenario?

I drove one home and back while my Explorer was in the shop getting fixed(after hours, so ran out of time). Drove very nicely, lots of room, loved driving it. My wife hates the look of them, so not likely to convince her to trade in the old Windstar unless they change the look. I have gotten used to the 74 International Travellall look and don't mind it.

That was awesome! I wish that rep was here when my least favourite whiney bonehead customer brought his POS chipped, altered 2008 F250 with the 6.4 in. We have bent over backwards for that bozo and he reamed us in his customer surveys and we fired him as a customer once already, but the other Ford shop in town must have Fired him more permanently, 'cause he's still coming in here for work.

I turned down a job on an F550 with a dump box that required lifting the cab. Whoever added the dump box cut a bigass hole in the floor between the seats and ran the hydraulic hoses for the dump control inside the cab. There was a welded on bracket at the top front of the box holding an amber rotary light that would require the box to be tilted before lifting the cab. Didn't look like an easy job at all. It would have been very difficult to co-ordinate lifting the cab with removal of the hydraulic hoses/tilting the box etc. Especially since my hoist is only rated at 9000lbs. I would have had to either start the job on our truck ramp hoist, then transfer it to my hoist to lift the cab, then roll around on a creeper etc. Totally poorly planned during the initial install.

Thanks for the replies, guys. I appreciate the info and passed it on to my friend. He didn't get that unit as it got sold out from under him, but is still looking.

An acquaintance of mine is looking at buying an Excursion with a non-running 6.0 in it, but otherwise in mint condition. He was picking my brain about retro-fitting a 7.3 instead of the 6.0. He has owned many 7.3's and had very few issues with them, so would rather go with the old reliable 7.3 then fix the 6.0. I have heard about some people doing this swap, but he could,'t find much info on it on the internet. He did find a lot of info on a Cummins to 6.0 swap. I would like to hear any and all input on this idea to help him make a good decision. He loves the Excursions and has been trying to buy one for a while, and does not want a gas powered one, but doesn't want a 6.0 time bomb in it either.

I once had a 4.6 with one timing chain out one tooth. The fuel trims were opposite. One bank high, the other low. Since only 2 cylinders show compression issues and 2 heads have failed to fix the problem, I would suspect either bottom end issues or a partially plugged cat.

Remove oil filter from housing. Air pressure as before. If oil/air bubbles out of filter housing HPOP is faulty.

Unlike the 6.0 that regularily blows head gaskets, the 6.4 seems to be less prone to this type of failure. I have personally only done one set. I find most of them have a set failure pattern. The first thing to leak is the rad. Pressure testing usually shows up the leaks easily if this is the case. Also causing external leaks are the rad hose internal o-rings. Look for white staining at all of these connections(Ford now has updated the hoses with 2 internal o-rings). Next to go is usually the horizontal cooler. I have done lots of these and never a vertical one. Usually next is the front cover, with cavitation issues. The one head gasket job I did started with the horizontal cooler, it still lost coolant, then while I had the cab off to do the head gaskets, I checked the front cover and thermostats and they were OK.

OMG!

I totally agree with you, Jim, It's just hard to sell a customer an overpriced OE $80+ cap to replace the one the dumbass tech threw away while installing the junk aftermarket piece of shite, just to put a FOMOCO filter back in their vehicle. I used to save all the HFCM primary fuel filter caps off junk pumps(they are identical to the oil filter caps)and use them to put Ford filters back on, but at some point I just gave up and went with the flow. A couple of trucks I took a black permanent marker and wrote under the hood to not throw away the filter cap, then replaced it with a stock one, but again, being flat rate, I eventually admitted defeat. Also, like you, I check the pressure in spare tires, unless I have to empty a ton of junk out of the trunk to get to it, and yes, almost all of them are either very low or flat. I hate doing a job half-assed, but sometimes I just get tired of banging my head against the wall for people who either don't care enough to keep bringing their trucks to a dealer for every service to get quality work done, with quality parts, or who don't know the difference and will just go back to the indy garage and get a crappy aftermarket filter installed at the next service interval anyhow.

7.3 is 17.5:1, 6.0 is 18:1, 6.4 is 17.5:1, 6.7 is 16.1:1.

Our dealer principal, service manager and Fast Lane(Changing to Quick Lane soon)manager went this year. I got to go in 2005 and hope to go back again someday. We didn't get to the AAPEX show, because after 2 days of SEMA we went on a bus tour to the Hoover dam.

We have given up on trying to educate people on using the proper Ford filter. We now stock the NAPA ones for the odd customer who has had his filter changed to one of those abortions.

Just did an 08 F350 and went by the shop manual which said to use an impact(didn't used to say that)and push up on the body to prevent the cage nuts from spinning. I tried that with the front 2 and they just spun. I then welded the cage nuts to the rad support, then welded all the rest also. I did one at a time and the heat from welding them allowed the bolts to come out OK. I think just heating the rear nuts would work also. I also see that the shop manual no longer has you replace the body bolt, just wire brush the loctite off and put new loctite on(I used anti-seize instead). Wow, Brad, that 2011 PDF file is awesome. I immediately printed it off for future reference.

Just a little note as reported to one of our techs from an engineer at FOMOCO that looked at the studs vs bolts issue on the 6.0 when they started to have gasket issues. Seems they investigated the use of studs and determined that the threaded area in the block was not strong enough for the extra torque arrived at when using studs, leading to block distortion. This is why FOMOCO does not endorse or suggest using studs in this engine.

Both of us diesel techs here will never trust the v(I sp)it on seals again after getting burnt once. I did one engine under warranty and had the seals leak after dropping the cab, even though I followed the shop manual religiously. Replaced them with copper and all was good. I didn't find the SSM about lubing them until after they leaked and I checked OASIS. If it is that important to lube them, it should be in the shop manual. I tried to get extra warranty time for re-lifting the cab but was denied, so even though warranty will not pay for the copper ones, on principle, I will show using them on paper and substitute the copper ones instead.

Where I used to work BF (Before Ford), a very upset older man came in the service area and claimed he had locked the keys in his car. The Service Manager tried to calm him down, but he expired in a waiting room full of people before anyone could get to his car to check it out. Paramedics couldn't revive him, but in a final note of irony, his keys were found in his coat pocket.

That reminds me of the time I bought my wife a digital camera kit complete with a printer for Christmas. I bought it in November on sale. She briefly opened the box to inspect it on Xmas day, but never got to the camera layer in the box. She got busy and finally got back to it sometime in the middle of January, only to discover that there was no camera in the box. It took quite a bit of patient persuasion at Staples to get another complete box as the store exchange policy was only one month. There was one complete layer missing from the original box, it turned out, and luckily on opening the new one we could verify this.

Now that is funny. Too true on the shop manual writers. Here is a gem from the 2010 F150 shop manual for the removal of the Mechatronic in the 6R80 transmission that illustrates this: NOTICE: During removal of the mechatronic assembly, the thermal bypass valve will fall out of the transmission case. Damage to the valve will occur if the valve falls out.

When I heard about the fire on yesterday morning's news, I immediately worried about Jim and Adam and their families. Everyone got out safely, but many fled with just the clothes they were wearing, and what is left to go back to? Even with insurance, it will take years to rebuild everything back to even close to what was there before. People will have lost everything, have no jobs to go back to, etc. What a disaster. My heart goes out to all that are affected.

Thanks guys. Sorry for the late reply, but we have been extremely busy. I did find the info on the recall for the glow plug controller and one of the two units did have that done. I also was suspecting a possible snow issue plugging the air filter as the air intake comes through the hood. Truck has not come back recently for this issue, so am assuming GM dealer may have fixed it this time, or maybe since winter has become spring, lack of new snowfall may have been the cure. I will update if anything new comes up or problem returns.

We are stuck with the contract for two of these gems. They are prisoner transport vans used for the local superjail. They keep setting P0102 codes. The first time I googled that code and most results led to cleaning or replacing the MAF so I replaced it on the first truck. Cleared code, sent on its way. The other one came in a week later with the same code. I assumed(incorrectly as it turned out)the MAF had fixed the first one, so replaced the MAF on the second one as well. The first one then came back with the same code again, so we sent it to a GM dealer for further diag. They claimed to have smoke tested it and found an air leak downstream of the MAF. I then smoke tested the second one without finding any leaks, so sent it to GM as well. They claimed to have fixed it. I didn't really understand what action on the RO fixed that issue as it had other concerns as well that I couldn't track down. Now, several weeks later, one of them is back with the CEL on and P0102 again. It also has P064C, which googled out to be a glow plug controller code, with a possible recall. Before I send it away AGAIN I was wondering if any of you have run into these codes or know what to look for on these. They are the first Duramax diesels I have ever worked on. Thanks in advance. I checked a couple of Duramax websites for answers but left wishing they were more like this site.

Thanks, Mike. The indy shop took it back and they are going to take it from there. I am still learning all the time, since this was an entirely new problem never seen by me before.

I may have found the problem. I started the inspection list with the visual inspection. There is no WIF drain on this truck. The drain line is there, but there is nothing hooking to the housing as well as no drain lever that I can find. It has a rear tank with a drain at the bottom of it. I took a sample of GASOLINE from it. Can I just drain all the gas out of it and fill it with diesel and hope it is OK, or what? I have never run into this on a 7.3 before.