BrunoWilimek

Yup. I use that site a lot. Good for info on upfitter switches, elevated idle etc. just to name a few.

Bite your tongue, man. Naxt Ford will want us to start rebuilding them, like the oil coolers and turbos that used to be replaced as assemblies.

I had to Google that one. Never heard it before. Who the heck still uses Latin anyhow? Oh yeah, is just old enough to remember it.

This was on a 2000 Lincoln LS, but could be same issue. It had an intermittent miss as well, worse when hot and I started out replacing 2 COP's and all the plugs. When miss was still there, I found more coils bad. I eventually had to replace all of them to get rid of the miss. I suspect they all hit critical mass at the same time. I have also seen something similar on a 4.6 F150 of around 2002 vintage, which kept getting one coil replaced at a time(extended warranty). Customer was pissed as it cost him the $100 deductible every time, but we could only replace the ones we found bad.

I can't speak for the Super duties, but as they may have different internals than the Explorer and Expedition ones. I know that I have replaced many Explorer hubs for the false ABS activation and have never found any play in the bearings. The ones I have removed the sensors from to inspect, I could see no damage to the teeth on the sensor ring, but always had pockets of grease between the teeth. I always save the hubs for future use on my own 1997 Explorer. I replaced the originals once under warranty on it for the ABS issue and one of the replacements lasted until 3 years ago, when the bearing got noisy, so I installed one of the used ones after blowing the grease out of the teeth. The other one lasted until earlier this year until it too got noisy. I also replaced it with a used one. There is still no play in the hubs, but now I am getting false ABS activation, but I can live with that as it only happens as I am almost stopped. Sorry for the longwinded rant, but I wanted you to know where I was coming from on this issue.

Workmans Comp isn't all it's cracked up to be. I've only been on it once and found it to be sadly lacking. I went to the Dr. because my left arm and hand went numb and I could feel a tingle in my left hand every time I tipped my head back to look up. The Dr. diagnosed it as a repetitive injury caused by looking up all the time while working under vehicles. He started a workmans Comp claim on it and prescribed light duty and a neck brace, which Workmans comp paid for. I also went to a therapist for treatments whick hepled a great deal, as did time, lots of it. It took 3 years to get all the feeling back. The Dr. didn't take X-rays until the therapist wanted to know if any abnormal bone growth was present in my cervical spine. No growth showed up, so Dr.s diagnosis went out the window. Therapist diagnosed inflamation of the nerve sheath in my shoulder blade area where nerve bundle goes through the bone. Therapist initially said he would use comp claim to get paid but later didn't want hassle of paperwork and B.S. Workers Comp put him through previously(he thought they treated him like a criminal and didn't like the intrusion in his life the represented). I ended up healed after much time and all Workers comp covered was the neck brace which didn't even cost very much. The X-rays and Electromyogram were also covered, but likely OHIP would have covered them as well. "Light Duty" involved not looking up when working under a vehicle, so no loss of pay at least. I talked to a former truck tech who is a customer of ours and he was not a fan of Workers comp either. He can no longer work due to the pain in his back from spinal compression and they treated him like a criminal, even going to the extent of hiring a private detaective to follow him around to try to disprove his injury. I am sure workers comp has helped many people, but it just seems to be a lot of hassle for a little gain for many of us.

According to his bio on YouTube he's from Bartlesville Oklahoma and is a Senior Master Tech with diesel and hybrid certification as well as a Toyota Master Diagnostic Technician with hybrid certification as well as an ASE certified Tech with L1. Pretty impressive credentials.

I personally think this is a very bad idea, as well as being totally unnecessary. I don't know if it would even work, as I assume there are internal seals to keep the grease on the bearings which would preclude getting the grease where it counts by injecting it in the ABS sensor hole. Another thing is, will the grease interfere with proper ABS operation. Obviously, the ABS system is different than older versions, case in point, the ABS system used on Explorers from 1995-2001. There was a TSB(98-14-08)that covered the cause of false ABS activation at very low speeds. I have replaced many front hubs for this concern and the only cause I have ever found is grease in the indicator teeth of the front sensors. Blowing the grease out with an air nozzle cures the concern for a while, until the grease gets in the teeth again. The TSB states in step 7. For front sensors, apply a conservative layer of...Grease...between the ABS sensor body and the machined pad on the bearing to prevent future corrosion. Be careful to keep the sensor opening and the sensor indicator free of grease. I have also replaced front hubs on Expeditions for the same reason. With the high cost of front hubs, I would not like to be the cause of ruining one for someone due to a misguided idea of preventive maintenance where none is required.

Is the donor truck a 4X4 as well? If not, it makes the job a lot tougher. If it is, then measure the overall length of the tranny/transfer case assy's. to see if they are the same length. Also, measure to the mount location from the front of the bellhousing to make sure it is in the same location on both units, as well as the length of the driveshaft. I once had a 78 F150 4X2 that some idjit had put a 250 6 cylinder in when the original 302 died. I put a 302 back in it, but found the engine was mounted farther back, as well as the tranny, due to the longer length of the 6 cylinder engine. The tranny fit on the bellhousing OK, but it meant I had to find some different(original) brackets to relocate the engine to the original location(I found them while on vacation on a truck at a dump up in Northern Ontario). The original driveshaft had been retained, but the tranny was compromised due to having the slip yoke rammed in too far. Therefore, it is good to measure before you start removing parts. Another consideration is the suitability of the donor clutch linkage. Make sure the donor uses the same mounting locations as there was a slight change between the 91 and 92-up cabs. One of my customers took a 5.8 out of an 89 F150 4X2 Auto and put it in a 93 that originally was a 4.9 4X4 manual, so I don't believe bellhousing pattern is an issue. In the long run, simply building a good auto tranny would be a lot simpler, but if you like the feeling of accomplishment that goes along with swapping, then go for it.

Back when I was an apprentice, one of the technicians was doing a tune-up on a Ford from the 70's, one of the ones with the flex fans(anyone else remember those?). He was standing under the hood with the engine running when suddenly there was a loud noise and he screamed and yelled for the service manager. I looked over and saw him holding his hand to the side of his head with blood pouring through his fingers. One of the fan blades let go and sliced his head. He was off work for a month and had headaches for a long time after that. That shop has had its share of injuries since I left there. One of the techs(not wearing safety glasses)had a piece of metal go in one eye, pretty well losing sight in that eye. About a year later, it happened again, but in his other eye. He now wears glasses, due to the injuries, but he is still working, luckily. Another tech there lifted a forklift on one of the car hoists. We have one here and it is smaller than the one they have and ours is waaaay too heavy for a car hoist. The tech was working under the forklift when the hoist broke, crushing him. I never did hear an update on that incident, so don't know if he was able to go back to work or not. All these "accidents" could have been prevented but human nature is such that most people take chances, or are ignorant to possible hazards around them. We have a safety policy in the shop and one of the techs is responsible for making sure things are safe around here. However, accidents can happen so quickly that it is important not to get too complacent and careless when we are at work. There are numerous dangers lurking around that must not be ignored. I instruct all our helpers, be they apprentices, co-op students or otherwise to wear safety glasses, work gloves etc., and also repeat the old message: Safety First, Accuracy Second, Speed Last.

Been there, done that. I actually had a customer looking over my shoulder once or twice who had a better way of doing the job than I was doing it. Unfortunately no one person, no matter how good at his job can know everything about it to perfection, especially in this trade where change is the name of the game. There is always a tool out there somewhere that will make a difficult job a little easier. If only you can find it. Also, it is always good to give credit where it is due. On the other side of the coin, It really ticks me off when my wife says(after I have embarrassed myself, usually)"I could have told you that". Well why DIDN'T she?

Yeah, because the 3valve plugs never(almost)come out without a lot of effort. I think the cure is worse than the disease. Just my

No, this guy was a little bit mentally challenged(to be politically correct). He was a good car washer but would never be able to handle a more demanding occupation. I remember when he was being instructed on how to undercoat cars and you could see it was beyond him. He was a scary driver. I only rode with him once, and I am pretty fearless(ask anybody who has been a passenger with me). He was a 2 footer(one on each pedal), and liked to alternate between them randomly. He would creep to within an inch of a car already stopped a a red light before stopping.

+1

The tech directly across the shop from me had just finished the safety on a used Taurus wagon, including installing new brake pads. It was overdue in the washbay as the sales department had promised to the buyer later that day and the guy who washed cars at this dealership then was in a great hurry because he didn't want to stay late to clean it up. It had no sooner been lowered to the floor and the hoist arms kicked out when the wash gut hopped in it and immediately started it up, threw it in reverse and found NO BRAKES.(was what he yelled) As it rocketed backwards, another tech just managed to throw himself out of its path before it slammed into the upright of my hoist. Luckily, there was nothing in my bay and I was in the tool room, just steps away when it hit. The rear end hit the hoist upright dead centre and bent the bumper as well as the tailgate severely. The bolts holding my hoist into the concrete were pulled 1/2 inch out of the floor. The customer didn't get his car that night, and all becasue the brake pedal had not been pumped up to bring the new pads in contact with the rotors.

I just put a rebuilt rear differential carrier in a 2000 F550 cattle truck. It has been sitting on our lot waiting for the parts since about 2 1/2 months ago. The left rear inside dual blew out while it was sitting on our lot and the outside tire on that side went flat. When I(very gingerly)pumped it up to get it in the shop, it had a rather obvious bruise(circular bulge) on the inside sidewall. The tires were both badly weather checked and had been retreaded. It went right to a nearby truck tire dealership when it left here, but I noticed the very faded annual safety sticker had expired a year and a half ago. The rear rotors were pretty well rusted away and the whole underside was very rusty. There was at least 4 inches of cow poop(luckily dry)inside it. The reason for replacing the carrier assembly was the axle side gears grenaded and took the rest of the diff with them. It was driven to our dealership. How do people get away with driving junk like this?

Thanks, Larry. I found that and watched the video before I went on vacation and thought it very well designed(other than the non-sealing type connectors used). It did not show exactly where to hook up the brakelamps source wire, however, so would have had to order the kit to find out what they suggested and since I had already installed a home-sourced version of the same thing. all except for the one wire, the kit would have been redundant. I was able to test the high-mount brakelamp circuit today and found it to be a suitable connection point(as Grampa Jim suggested. Thanks, Jim ). The connector C2280D at the SJB is close enough to not require a longer wire and it is circuit 1456 RD-LB that is a good brake feed. Had I not been able to hook into this wire, I could have used GregH's circuit board idea. Thanks to all who replied.

While I was off, customer picked truck up and we had another one with the same noise at 14,000km.

Thanks for the replies. I thought of hooking into the hi-mount brakelamp, but without having time to test this, I couldn't say if it would work. I was also wondering about using a diode in the boo circuit. I have e-mailed Draw-Tite and am waiting for a reply. Hotline washed their hands of the job, as it involves aftermarket equipment. I am off next week, so will not get back to it until after then.

I thought of doing that, Mike, but wondered how easy it was to line the bolts up with the holes on re-entry. This would mean you wouldn't have to worry about the loctite on the big bolts. On an unrelated note to cab removal, but further to the noise issue, I just contacted hotline for the umpteenth time and finally got a good engineer. He basically said it sounds like a normal 5.4 3 valve noise. Basically the phaser is just starting to allow the cam pulley to turn a few degrees and due to timing chain deflection(some have more than others, causing some to be noisier than others)the phaser starts to vibrate. This noise should be compared to several other trucks to see if it compares as some are going to be louder than others. Putting a new engine in this truck may make the noise better, or it may actually get worse. Now we just have to convince the customer of this fact, as he has been in a rental for 4 weeks now and truck is no better than when he dropped it off. If it was my truck I would be able to live with it, so Jim was correct when he asked what level to classify the noise on a scale of 1-10. The engineer asked the same question. Well, I am taking the next week off, so will not get back to you for a while.

Hotline says "authorized dealer" refers to the aftermarket. This unit does not have the trailer tow package according to him and he can not help me on it therefore. I have e-mailed Draw-tite.

I just checked the online owner's manual and it says to have an electronic brake controller and associated wiring installed to your vehicle by an authorized dealer if towing a trailer with electronically activated brakes. The trailer tow capacity of the van is 3500lbs and trailer brakes are required on trailers over 2000lbs gross weight. WTF?

I am attempting to install a TBC(Draw-Tite Activator #5100)in this van to allow towing a tent trailer. Unlike the 2000-2003 Windstar, there is no factory TBC connector on this unit. The instructions specify hooking up to the switched side of the brakelamp circuit, but there is a separate yellow instruction page that applies to late model Fords with a switched side circuit that is a ground with the brake pedal not applied. It warns not to hook to that type of circuit as it will cause a short to ground that will destroy the controller. I tested the wire and as it goes to the SJB, it is indeed a ground circuit at rest. It says "hook to the light green wire from the stoplamp switch. Yes, but the light green wire is the supply(12volt) side of the switch, so how will that work? Hotline says:"This vehicle does not have a 7-pin trailer tow connector. It is not recommended to install a trailer brake controller on this vehicle." Hmm. Now what? Any ideas?

Thanks, Keith.

Also, on a side note, nowhere in the 09 F150 shop manual could I find reference to removing the cab for any kind of repair, yet the bolts come up from the bottom and everything comes apart so easily that cab removal is definitely the way to go if performing any major repairs. The shop manual says to remove engine to replace head gaskets, but after lifting the cab on one, I would never consider removing the engine just for head gaskets. We will have to get our hands on one of these trucks(6.7 scorpion) to see which way works best for us. Even then, there will always be advocates for leaving the cab in place, even if they are a definite minority. Different strokes for different folks, right?