BrunoWilimek

2 hours +1/2 hour extra for each broken one.

Thanks, Chris. It must be something new. Ford came back with a reply on pro-tech that the new programs will be unveiled next week. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

I broke an exhaust stud off one time in a V10 and broke my easy out off in it as well. I was able to use a tiny carbide burr(1/8" shaft)in my die grinder and although it destroyed the burr in the process, I got the easy-out out. Good luck. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

Possibly, or someone overlooked it, or is on holidays. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

All is well in Fordland. I called 5 1-800 numbers, with no answer(all given to me by the previous number called) and left a message with Dave Young at Mississauga Ford school before I went back on protech. A tech named Chris Briggs(he posts on here as well) had the answer for us. Seems you have to re-assign yourself to Master or Senior status. The Diesel tech status was automatically re-aasigned by the system. We have a new service manager as of June, so Either it is the service manager's responsibility now, or the system has not been updated automatically as in years past. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whew.gif

Another tech on protech posted that his masters designation shows as "discontinued". I checked and sure enough, so does mine. Has anyone heard anything about this? I suspect it is due to financial cutbacks for less important(to corporate headquarters anyhow)programs. This means little to me, but to anyone almost there who is waiting for their prizes for attaining master/senior stats, it could mean a whole lot. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crybaby2.gif

Cost+10% here as well.

Thanks, Bruce. Happy new year back to you too. Actually that pin is listed as KEYPWR(R/S)on the first page of the 6.4 diesel wiring diagram which is teed into the BJB for the fuel pump diode and pin 1 of the fuel pump relay. I don't think this was related in any way to my concern as it wasn't just running on fuel, it was running as if the key was still in the run position. I would have expected the instrument cluster, DRL etc., to be off if it was simply the fuel pump still running. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

That's because it IS the Ford website, but it is different from our Canadian website, at least it has more and different tabs than our Canadian inford website. We can't access the American version here the same way you Americans do, as it defaults to a different(Canadian) version. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/readthis.gif

Thanks, Bruce, /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif for sending me in the right direction. Well, here's the latest. I think I may have found the cause. The day it actually did it until I opened the hood, I was looking for anything that may have been related to the hood closing and re-located the relay rail for the plow lights. This is a long batch of relays to address the 6.4's use of the SJB to control the headlamps/marker lamps etc., on separate circuits for Boss brand plows. Whoever installed the plow only left enough slack in the wiring harness to fit the relays between the coolant reservoir and the battery. If you are familiar with the 6.4 reservoir, you will know that the top has a dropped down area near the fender to accomodate the hood contour. I also performed the venturi recall and then made the relays fit better to match the contour of the coolant reservoir. I had taken a quick look at the relays and wiring before moving them, but did not look too closely as they were not in my mind related to the concern. After trying unsuccessfully for several days to get the truck to act up, I called hotline to see if they had any ideas. The engineer there did some research and told me to look for anything over .1 volt(even without the concern present)at pin 12 of C1232b at the PCM. I had only .003 volt, so I went back to basics. I re-inspected the wiring to the relays for the plow lights and found a wire had been squeezed between the relays and cut through its insulation, likely by the hood pushing the relays down when closed. There were no witness marks to determine where it had been touching, and the wire was not burnt. However, the battery positive terminal is very close to this area, and even though it has an insulating cover, it is possible the wire may have found its way under the cover and contacted the terminal. I applied liquid electrical tape and then further taped the wires and relays and wire-tied them down away from the battery terminal. I was reluctant to try duplicating the concern by applying 12 volts directly to this particular wire for fear that I would let the smoke out of some electronic component, so am unable to verify if this actually caused the concern. The only link would be the SJB, which is where the ignition switch communicates that it has been turned off, and the lights, which are also controleed by the SJB. The customer has the vehicle back now, so I am hoping that was the cause. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eeeesh.gif

+1 I have never replaced one in an E-series...yet. Lots of F-series done in this shop and we used to keep a new one in stock at all times until they got backordered. I don't know if we got one back in stock yet. to /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/ford.gifand IH.

I checked the plow wiring and can't find anything to cause the concern. The start run relay is not the cause as removing it does not affect the engine running. I reflashed the PCM for the 08B06 recall and the SJB for the TSB for plow light operation. Inspecting the wiring diagrams leads me to sevaral possibilites. I only hope it acts up long enough the next time to allow me to trace some circuits. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gifHave a few of whatever lights your fire and I will let you know what I find after the weekend.

Flat rate. I agree with Jim about it being hard to make good money with the way Ford pays for warranty work now. I used to make good money flat rate. No more. The biggest problem here is that I work in a general shop, so get my share of every type of job that comes in the door. The percentage of warranty repairs has declined in the last 10 years, and every job in the door seems to be "and now for something completely different". It's hard to keep up with the new technology as well. At the rate it is changing, it seems like every new diagnosis involves learning the system before you can even attempt to diagnose it. Almost everything you already know is useless and you will never again likely see the exact same repair and if you do, you can't charge extra time for your diagnosis because the customer saw you fix it in only a few minutes. Oil changes are one of my least favourite jobs and yet we seem to be doing more of them all the time and trying to fill out the QC 550 sheet to the best of my ability takes extra time that almost never seems to be made up. It would be nice to get paid hourly at a fair wage for the level of my skills but that is never going to happen, so I will keep plugging away as long as I still manage to somewhat enjoy my work. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

Not a fuel issue. Just not able to shut off vehicle with key. This truck was originally from Washington state and was repossessed by Ford at which time it had a new frame installed under the cab(chassis cab unit). Customer recently had a plow unit installed. But are these red herrings? It did it first thing this morning. Started and immediately tried to shut off, pulled key right out, disconnected ignition switch, still running(normally) as if key was in run postion. Checked wiring diagrams and found something called a run/start relay that powers up many circuits in start and run. Went to inspect BJB relays. Pulled hood release and started to raise hood when it shut off(as if key turned off at that moment). Now unable to duplicate. I will keep you posted. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif

Got another odd one here now. Intermittent unable to shut off with key. Key out and it keeps running as if key still in run position. Not able to duplicate. Any ideas? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

Yup, remove left motor mount and engine tilts enough to remove cover.

Nothing found in wiring to PCM from pedal during more intense scrutiny than a wiggle test. Another road test without a symptom. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whattodo.gif

No add-ons to the pedal connector or wiring that I can see. Apparently it did it twice on Friday after customer left here, but ran perfectly for him this morning on the way here, as well as on a 25km road test. Cleared codes before road test as per PPtest. Any more ideas? Now am going to try to access wiring between pedal and pcm for a look see. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

Thanks, guys. I will look into that today as it's back for further diag. I hope they unloaded the 1000 lbs of sheep and goat meat that was in the back on Friday. Yes, it's a reefer truck, yay! At least the roads are passable today, so I can at least try to duplicate the concern and possibly record it. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

Also codes P0404, P0488, all continuous, no hard faults, PPtests no help(wiggle test-nothing found, cleared codes as perPPT, did not return). Unable to duplicate at this time. Roads very bad due to storm so unable to road test(already tried once, not going out again). Possible VREF concern as per protech? Anyone have these codes and symptoms? Has already had accelerator pedal replaced at another shop recently, I suspect for same concern. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif

Thanks for the update and fix. Sometimes those "new" parts that are no good can really screw up our diagnosis. What was the blurb at the bottom of one tech's postings? "Keep replacing EGR valves until you find a good one" or something like that. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif

I'm sorry to say I do remember Bob Rae. How could I forget Ontario's short-lived(thank God)NDP venture. I'm embarrassed to admit I actually helped elect him by voting for the local NDP candidate, who promptly quit to run in the federal election when he found out he couldn't do much from his seat in Toronto to change the things he wanted to. Luckily, he never got elected federally and was never heard from again, and a conservative replaced him in the by-election. I learned my lesson and will never vote NDP again. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/puke.gif

Looks like Bob Rae is out now too. That leaves Micheal Ignatieff. I don't know anything about him, but I'm sure he can't be as bad as Stephane Dion. Now what the heck is a prorougue? I never heard of it before. I googled it and found the definition, so now I know. What I can't figure out is who is running the country now? Since the prorougue suspended parliament, the highly paid public servants who sat for less than 3 weeks after the election are now on an extended Christmas break while the country slides into a recession and the manufacturing industry looses thousands of jobs(not just the auto industry). /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/icon_crazy.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/stooges.gif(Dion, Layton and Duceppe)

+1 /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

A little dab of dielectric silicone will hold a coin(a dime if memory serves correctly)down in the bottom of the cup to plug the hole so no filings go in the cylinder. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/readthis.gif