BrunoWilimek

I would check the main harness connector at the ABS module and compare the wire colours to the wiring diagram to confirm if the wires are crossed at this connector(C135). If so, just switch the incorrect ones to the proper locations. If they turn out to be correct, then you have a real mystery. According to the diagram, pin 12 CKT 521 (TN/OG) is the wheel speed sensor LF + and pin 13 CKT 522(TN/BK) is the wheel speed sensor LF -. Pin 26 CKT 514 (YE/RD) is the RF + and pin 27 CKT 516(YE/BK) is the RF -.

Have you checked out this site yet?http://www.motorcraft.com/pdf/Wiring_Pigtails_Illustration_Guide.pdf You will have to "copy" and "paste", as the link does not work.

This is the description I received with those pictures.: Think he had a "Vibration"?????? This guy ran over a mattress and decided to keep going. The ensuing jumble finally whipped around enough to put a tear in the gas tank, the subsequent lack of fuel is what finally brought this vehicle to its knees. It had still managed to drive 30 more miles decently with a 60lb tangle wrapped around the driveshaft. This genius complained that the vehicle had a "shimmy" when driving at high speeds. This is what the dealership found..............

I like the idea of using an old turbo oil drain tube as leverage to avoid damaging anything while prying the cover off.

Huh? The only 99-04 hub seals that I don't destroy upon removal are those that have been recently replaced(as in I forgot to replace something and have to take it apart a second time).

Any evidence of water getting in IDM? I replaced one years ago and found water entry due to location of IDM. I seem to remember a TSB about this issue on these units(if memory serves correctly).

Sorry, no help here. I looked in the tool index and Rotunda tool catalog, but neither break down the kit to its individual components and we don't have the kit. They retail new for over $1000, so if you paid a lot less you are still ahead, if you can find the missing pieces. I even Googled it and no help there either, just entire kits for sale with no breakdown of components. Looks like a very useful kit.

Not exactly the same, but I had a 97 Crown Victoria from out of town that kept eating water pumps. I replaced the original pump with a Carquest reman unit(because it was a few bucks less). That one only lasted a month or so before it started to leak at the weep hole, so I replaced it again, under warranty from Carquest. After I replaced it yet again shortly thereafter, I asked if they had any problems with their waterpumps, and the answer was no, and they wondered if it was the installation that was at fault. I inspected all pertinent components and even went so far as to send the rad out and it was supposedly plugged internally, so I replaced it. That pump failed and by this time the owner had had enough of driving 2 hours back to our dealership to get warranty, so he opted for a new Ford pump. I have never seen him back since, so that must have fixed it.

Not on the 6.4, but the 6.0, I have tried anti-seize and engine oil under the heads of the bolts and I thought it actually made the chatter worse. I just lubed the threads of the last 6.0 bolts I did heads on and no chatter. I put it down to changing the torque co-efficient so that the initial turning of the bolts to a specified torque actually over-tightened the bolts so that when 90 degreeing them, you were way past what they should have been torqued to. I don't have any evidence to back this theory up, but it seemed to work for me, anyhow.

Actually it's not always the engineers fault. Quite often their design undergoes revisions when the bean counters get ahold of it. Bean counters

Scary pictures! Safety first. I guess that's why they need the humour. I have said many more times than I can count that I would like to meet up with the engineers of (insert any frigged-up design here)and give them a good beating.(not that I would, though).

I was lucky on mine, since I phoned hotline and described the shape and description of the ring, and he confirmed what it was, so there was a history of the concern in the system before I completed the repair, including what the hotline engineer recommended. The STC fitting had been replaced a week prior to the no start and that was also a help in determining what caused the second failure.

That is so true. What is worse is knowing something and then forgetting it because you didn't use it and having to learn it all over again the next time you are faced with the same problem.

I remember a scary looking hitch installation I had e-mailed to me a while ago. I googled it and found a link, so here it is. http://www.jeepaholics.com/support/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=54315 I wonder what that rode like?

That is correct. The oil pump inside the front cover provides base oil pressure. However, I have found that if you use the instrument panel oil pressure guage as a base oil pressure indicator, it seems to take an extremely long time to register. I don't know if this applies to the oil temperature port as well, but it might. As the ICP was 300-500, chances are there was base oil pressure all along, but I was fooled once, when I thought I was tracing a low ICP, but instead found a broken piece of a STC fitting retaining ring had passed through the low pressure pump, scoring it all to hell, yet I still had some pressure built up from the high pressure pump.

Many years ago at the shop where I apprenticed, a cutomer came in saying his car wouldn't start since he decided to winterize it. He installed a flushing tee and flushed and refilled the antifreeze OK. Then he had some antifreeze left over, so he decided to do the battery as well. He dumped the "water" out of the battery, then filled it with antifreeze. Why wouldn't it start? Another customer built his own trailer and couldn't get the lights to work. On inspection, he had built a nice trailer using wood for the frame, and all the wires were hooked up correctly, right down to the ground wire screwed into the wood frame, yet his lights still didn't work. Another genius bodyman did a bang-up job doing the body on an old K-car. He liberally coated the entire body in body-filler and let it harder up real well, then, without sanding it, he painted the rough surface. He used a saw to cut through the filler at all the body openings so the doors, etc would work. That one gave all of us a good laugh. The car must have had over 100 lbs of filler on it.

That was me, but I hesitated to say it because I got harrangued for it the last time, but it does give you more room to work as long as the nuts come off the front mount bolts OK. Also if you need slightly more room, take the second set of body mounts bolts out as well. The 11/16 or 17mm turbo wrench did the job for me on the last one that I did and the front mount nuts didn't come off that one.

Last one I did, I used my 11/16 size twist style socket on the washer under the bolt. With a 1/2 length(custom cut to get at 03 ICP sensors)1 1/16 wrench on the socket hex, I rattled it with my air chisel and out it came. The socket hex is slightly smaller than 1 1/16, but close enough that it worked. I found this tip on an old posting on this site and tried it and it worked.

There is a house mover in town here who used to have(maybe he still does)a 1939 Autocar that was restored. It was geared to move houses at very low speeds. He took it to a local fair for the truck and tractor pull(this was about 15 years ago) and entered it in the unlimited class. After all the other truck tractors and the largest all wheel drive tractors had finished, he hooked on and could have pulled that sled fully loaded for many miles as easily as if it were not hooked up. Pretty good for an old girl that had every right to be in a museum.

I've never had to do it, but I understand from reading old posts that the A/C plenum is fairly simple to remove. Once it's out of the way you will have more room to get at those stubborn bolts. Good luck.

I see the government here in Canada is planning to introduce legislation that will require a bittering agent in all coolants in the future to prevent accidental poisonings(pets as well as people). It will use a small amount of the same substance used in the stuff used to prevent people from biting their nails. I understand the new ultra geen coolant already uses a bittering agent in it. I was also wondering if the colour was used to help identify it as coolant rather than anything else. Gold coolant leaves a white residue when it evaporates, but looks just like water on the floor. Dex-cool type red/orange coolant could possibly be confused with tranny fluid or power steering fluid. Green can only be coolant.(or possibly Volvo type CVT fluid). Just a thought.

I was considering getting one(torque multiplier) but cost was prohibitive. Sharing with another tech would help out though. I currently use a 3/4" ratchet that is 40 inches long assembled. It comes apart in 3 sections for storage. I does work well, but still could be improved upon.

If I e-mail you a powerpoint presentation about the highway of hereos, would you be able to post it here to show how some(hopefully most)of us in Ontario think about our brave young soldiers?

Check it out for yourself, I always do, on this website. I am glad to see that not everyone believes everything they are sent. I can't count the number of times I have been sent dire warnings and pictures of nasty stuff(have you seen the one purported falsely to be a burnt wienie from peeing on an electric fence yet?)Much as our gallant young men and women serving our countries(both Canada and USA)in that hellhole deserve our support and respect, we don't need false stories going around that might influence people in power to make poor decisions regarding their futures. **Sorry to rain on your parade.