DieselD

wow there are some crazy special tools out there for this thing. turbo lift brackets?? is that thing that big and heavy? how about that egr vavle removel monstrosity?

plan to take it as soon as I walk in the door this morning

um yeah swithced back to the old IE and its much better!

havent tryed it yet but I sat through the diesel talk live broadcast. Seems stupid easy to use and I think it would prove useful. Its not much differnt than manualy performing the test with active commands. this test just does all the work for you.

Those numbers are good, just used them today

Got a chance to try this today, It took a little longer and kinda a hassle but it was worth it. I found you had to use a small ratchet and torx bit to get the bolt hiding near the turbo. I have a nice little 1/4 drive female snapon ratchet that works wonders for this(also works awesome on the right oil rail when doing injectors) I couldnt get the old oragne hose off easy. I had to cut it and fight it to get it off, even then it decided to come apart and leave the metal housing with the o-ring stuck on the cooler. None the less I got it replaced this way within an hour so its not bad.

Thanks for the tip!

speaking of goo, have you replaced an engine due to it yet? I have replaced about 4engines due to the oil cooler failing so bad it sludged the entire cooling system. I was in touch with hotline on each one and they recommended I replace the engine(longblock) each time. Even had inspectors out here on a couple of them.

When I say sludged up I mean solid! like no coolant at all! Its crazy. I will snap a picture of the next one.

I have replaced about a dozen coolers due to them leaking into the cooling system. I also had one puking coolant out of the weep hole in the front of the cooler

that is a possible repair but so is head gaskets and egr cooler. you need to determine what is causing it. just because coolant is coming from the degas bottle dosent mean it needs an oil cooler.

The temp refernce is how the tsb wants you to check it.

which sucks, I have had several oil cooler failures cause repeat egr cooler failures.

yes ranger switches seem to be very light. I have replaced several that seem to trip at random. also ask if there is a passager. The switch sits in a prime location to get kicked by their feet. Also of times the harness will come unplugged.

The new updated switch comes with a bracket protecting it from getting kicked.

you said remote start? might take a look at the aftermarket alarm as well. Did this just start when he had this alarm installed?

yeah I saw this pop up this morning. I have run into this issue a few times but in Arizona we dont get much mosture here.

From my understanding its not a recall yet, possibly jan from the message on pts

TBC=trailer brake controller.

why do customers feel the need to use starting fluid? I had one guy use so much it filled the turbo full of it. If it dosent start just bring it in! Seems simple to me. Its about as bad as the guys that crank on it til the batterys go dead and wonder why.

I had one blow apart on a 650 so bad it hit the rear cover. For some reason the rear cover on the 650s are farther away from the gear. I ddint think I could save it but I was able to bend it back . It was a good 1.5" out of place. It never cracked.

good point on pulling up with bolts. Those things strip really easy. Seen another tech do it a couple times. Ive never had a problem with it but Im carefull and do it by hand

Thanks for the input guys - I should have it running sometime today. The STC fitting itself isn't blowing out, but the o-ring that seals it to the branch tube.

 

The branch tube WAS actually bent, but not up - rather, it was bent down. The STC fitting bolts were used to draw the branch tube back to where it's "supposed" to fit... so.. we'll see what happens.

 

Either way, I'll keep you all posted and thanks for the input.

 

Dave

That right there tells me its the wrong o-ring. The only thing that would have happened to the branch tube is it would have cracked from being bent down then back up. This will cause a hard start when hot but not cause the o-ring to blow out. unless for some weird reason that branch tube is bent so bad its not sealing against the block for the fitting.

put another 50-60miles in stop and go traffic including freeway driving and got nothing. I decided to pull out the ipr and check it out. found the screen fell off and the orings not sitting corectly on the vavle. Figure I will replace that and go from there.

see if its coming out of the manifold or y-pipe. if your egr cooler is leaking internally it will drip from there. check the welds on the egr cooler itself. I have seen those leak as well. the orange hose is the old style and very prone to leaking

Its a late build 04(icp on right vavle cover)

Its got a new EBP sensor last time it was in, it also got the pigtail. I have wiggle tested all the wiring focusing on the ebp wiring with no luck

ICP has a new pigtail.

IAT2 is new as well since the last one was plugged solid with carbon

I cant get it to act up enough to even monitor pids, everything is good looking at it. I need to get this thing to act up so I can see what pids are doing. Thats my biggest challange at this point.

yeah Ive been fighting for a VDR

No VDR.

the engine never does stall. I want to say i tried swapping mafs out the first time it was in with no luck.

The EBP connector is fine, I checked it again today.

Ive got a real stumper here and cant seem to nail down this issue. I will do my best at making this post make sense.

The vehicle is an 04F350 with 85k 6.0 of course

The concern is customer states engine rpms will surge while driving and at stops causing vehicle to surge or lunge forward. It also feels like the engine will die. This has been a problem for the customer for a long time and several dealers have tryed to fix it. I think he is on the 4egr vavle. They keep throwing them on. I doubt its a vavle

I verifyed it to be a surge which sounds like a egr problem. engine pitch changes when this happens and sometimes it will lurch hard enough to move the truck. I thought I had it figured out since it felt just like a ebp problem like we were having so much trouble with early on.

I had this vehicle about 3 months ago for the same concern. I got it to act up alot and very regularly. I ended up swaping alot of known good sensors one at a time to elimate anything. icp,ebp,egr vavle etc. installed the latest calibration, replaced both the ebp sensor and icp sensor pigtails. I found changing the ebp and pigtail stopped the surge. I drove it about 20miles after and never got it to happen again so I shipped it

fast forward to today and its back. So far I have drivin this thing for about 1.5hrs today and have only got it to act up for a short time sitting in my stall running. not even long enough to scroll through my pids. I have a P0470 which I had the before as well. Other than that this thing runs awsome. I dont doubt the customer has had this problem more often than I have seen it happen. He has mentioned it happens worse on some days and not at all on others.

Any advise or input? Im running out of ideas.

Are we still having problems with pts working with IE7? My computer decided to update itself and now I have IE7. For the most part its been working ok but I noticed when running oasis I can click the service publication, TSB/SSM, etc links at the top of the report. Anyone else have these issues?

I know I saw a message in the message center about conflicts with the new IE7 but I cant find it again and wondering if they have been fixed or not yet.

smoke machines are nice when they work, someone decides to break ours! I like keiths method and use it on those hard to find leaks

Yes those y-pipes are common to leak, espessially if you disturb them. First double check your connections at the turbo, I know you said you did but just make sure. They will appear to be seated right but its hard to see if it really is with the clamp on it. Also what you might try is feeling around the y-pipe with the engine running to see if you can feel a leak, obviously becareful since its hot under there.

To change the y-pipe its prety simple, just get your turbo out of the way. unbolt everything and slide it out from the top. you dont need to raise the body or anything. Depending on build date if you have the early intake manifold its going to be a little tricky but possible.

Impressive...I can only imagine the fun its going to be to work on this thing. My biggest worry is all these people using racks that would prevent pulling the cab easily. I cant imagine ford hanging anymore junk off that engine but obviously they make it happen. I like the fact there is a pyrometer on it, I dont like the fact the y-pipes look of the same design, I wonder if there will be issues of them leaking like the 6.0?

what about the econoline? will they manage to stuff this under the hood? Is it even physically possible?

Im excited to see the launch, I hope for the best.

I think this would be a GREAT addition to the site! I think it woudl save alot of time when you know where you could find a part number for something. I hate standing at the parts counter waiting for the parts guy to try and track it down. It would their life easier as much as it would ours