Steve Mutter

wow, when did this happen ?

Sounds like I good move, congratulations !!!!!

There is some new recall for dpf issues, for trucks that idle. 20e08

I got my first none recall repair done the other day, I had to replace the turbo, it was sticking and over boosting. What do you guys think of these engine to work on? what repairs have you done already ? I am not looking forward to the day I have to replace the high pressure pump, thats nasty.

I am fighting this transit, it has set p2463 p246c 3 times now. Another tech in my shop had it first, he replaced the egr cooler, egr valve chasing p0401. Then i got it, I cleaned the map sensor port and put new maf sensor, I have fixed the p0401 code but after around 2000 kms it will put the check engine light on and give the exhaust overloaded warning. The driver said that it did not given any warning just out of the blue. Just to note this truck has the manual region function and they know how to use it other wise. I performed the pinpoint tests and manual regenerations. Performed a parameter re set on the dpf and sent it on its way. Came back with the same codes, I tested the dpf injector and it made 20ml during the test. I replaced the def performed re sets and was just told today that its coming back, made it another 2000kms. Anyone run into something like this ?

Success ! The promaxx tool worked nicely except the small drill bit broke right at the end. I was able to mig the other side out first try.

That's good find, nice to know it does not take the motor out when that fails.

I just saw that there is a prokit plus that comes with inserts, can you just get by with the prokit or are the inserts a must.

I bet by the time it get's to Canada it will be close to $800. I was just hoping someone here could tell me if it works good or not.

I have a 2011 6.7 with almost 300 km, doing a fuel system because it ran on gas till it stopped. #1 and #7 broke off in the head. I started on #1 and can't even get it to move one bit. I got the valve cover off and got a good grip on the bolt and now it broke off flush. What technique have you guys used that has work for you ? The hold down clamp on #1 was broken and loose so it may have damaged the threads maybe making hard to remove. Has anyone used the promaxx repair kit ? is it worth it? I checked today and go figure cylinder heads are back ordered so that not an option.

I just tried to sign up and there is no Canadian city's listed in the registration page . I followed the link, maybe there is another link for Canadians.

Has anyone tilted the cab and jacked the engine up so that they could get the upper pan out. Just wondering if this is possible or even worth it to try.

So unfortunately my beloved 2004 powerstorke F-250 rusted away to nothing. My father in-law called us asking if we wanted to buy his truck, hard to say no its a mint 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 even though I am a die hard Ford guy. Anyways the truck is good but it gets the same fuel economy as my old diesel. I get around 500 kms out of 98 litres which is around 12 mpg using the US gallon, 19.6 litres/100kms for the people in canada. Is there something wrong with my truck or is this what they get, when I am very light on the throttle I get a bit better but not much. I have no chevy background so if anyone has advice I would appreciate it.

We had some dude call us from Ford when we where looking into getting an engine ordered. He wanted to know what cylinder was low on compression. He told us that they where having a issues with #3 piston failing. He was very tight on any other details.

Well I answered my own question, it must have to flow a good amount because I got the truck to start. I had found the fuel pump jumper harness melted to the down pipe, I repaired the wires but the truck still did not start. There must have been a good air lock because after letting the pump run for a long time and purging the air from the low side 4 times with the bled tool in place the truck finally started.

I am going through my tests and I am doing the return port leak test now. When I crank the engine I am getting a constant drip from the retune tube. My question is that enough to fail that test, I have never done this test so I don't know what they consider fuel flow. Just to note when I crank the engine the most I can get out of it is around 2700 psi.

Where are these wires located now, I had a quick look under the hood but could not find them.

Thanks for the cut aways ( I think this is the thumbs up emoji ) The centre o-ring was pink, the injectors got all new o-rings and some fresh oil. I will update this if when I know the out come. Thanks again !

I had a 2017 3.2 dead on #3, it got a long block and I pulled out the front. Like Michael said the front bumper comes off very quick.

We have an 2002 f-350 7.3 that will lose oil to the point that it will stall out. It has external leaks but I can't see it losing that much oil in around 1200 kms. The tech that had it befor said that it was very low on oil so he did an oil change so I know it at least was full of oil befor it left here last time. I checked the charge pipes and found a normal amount of oil. We checked the fuel filter and its not black but nether is the oil, dye was added to the oil and it looks like there is dye in the fuel. We pulled the fuel injectors out and inspected the O-rings and did not find anything obvious. We used that injector vacuum test tool and they all hold 25 inch's. I would have to think that the one of fuel injectors are the cause I just want to be able to proof it to. Does anyone else have any advice on the best way to test.

I have not heard of anyone in our shop coming across this problem, did you end up finding anything ?

I have done both ways and I find taking the front apart the best for me. When it comes to engine work on these things gas or diesel I do not fear them as much anymore.

I am requesting a sound clip

I had a 2006 f-450 that had severely plugged fuel filters that would throw off icp at wot. The same truck also had high pressure oil leaks hot, I had fixed the no start hot but still had a lack off power top end. Maybe look at the fuel filters and check fuel pressure but you have probably done already.

I had a truck that would set p0304 ran rough cold but would be fine hot, would show low in power balance and pass a relative compression test. I performed a manual compression test and found #4 was 45 psi different from the others. Took the engine apart and found a bent rod on #4. The truck had also had an injector replaced on a different cylinder a couple of months previous and they did not performed an injector IQA. The point of this story is that relative compression is not as accurate on the 6.7 as they where on the 6.0/6.4 just wanted to add to this post.