Steve Mutter

I have done a couple re seals now and found in is some cases its hard to say that its just the upper oil pan leaking. The engines I have re seal have all looked like the leak starts above the tee joint so I have re sealed the front and rear covers as well. I had one I just did the upper pan on and it came back, I removed the front cover and found the gasket around the bottom of the block was flat.

Job is done, I used 10.9 metric grade bolts, washers, nylon locking nuts and red lock tight. It's a big fleet customer for us so this ones getting along road test and re check after the body shop is done on there end. Thanks

I am doing a frame replacement on a 2016 6.7 f250 and have to transfer the spring towers but I can't find the procedure in the work shop manual. Does anyone know if its ok to use high grade hardware or does it need to be riveted ?

I pressed it together then filled it with solder as well.

Thanks for your reply's, ended up using a quickcable Part #4340-005p 4/0 gauge flag terminal. Did not have a crimp tool but my ball joint press worked. Customer is very happy.

I have a 2006 that needs battery cables ends but the whole set up is $1500 from ford. What are you guys using to repair these cable ends, is there a nice cable end that can be soldered. Thanks

I had a truck that they ran the app wires through a pto control that was screwing with the readings. Check to see if there is anything aftermarket under the dash.

Well I am going to call this one fixed, I installed and new pressure/temperature sensor and inertia switch. Its been about a month, the customer has even been back for an oil change and told us it has been 100%.

Had the same issue here, can't use cheap tires on these trucks they will not feel right.

Wow, I wonder if they will sell the studs separate as well and put installation instructions in the workshop manuals.

So my parts manager has told me now ford is saying ck-4 oils are ok for the powerstroke. Can't find any documentation to proof this, but what a gong show if it is true.

Could not find a inertia looking pid but I think you are might be on to something. Could not get it to stall today so I tried triggering the inertia switch and found it stall out right away and does no leave any codes. I hope I can get it to stall out again, then I will try by passing that switch to verify that its fixed.

The truck is a 2016 6.7 with 140 000 kms, no after market add on at all. The truck stalls out 2 different ways, one way the truck will be running and it just shuts off like you have turned the key off with no warning. Run koeo and check for history codes and will show no codes not even a network code. The second way is it will stall out and no crank and when it does this it will set p008a which I have gone through the pinpoint test and found nothing wrong. So now it will also sometimes run and start with the low fuel pressure warning on in the IC, what is odd about this it that I have a pressure gauge on it and it reads 68 psi and the ids shows 82 psi so its not actual low. I can't find the trigger here, what would cause the truck to randomly shut of, I made a recording and when it dies out it shows no cam fault or lose of sync befor the stall out. The truck does not have cdim just to add. Anyone run into something similar ?

Just found this on PTS, does anyone know what happed ? It said they have lost a key member of there team.

I have a truck I did an egr/engine coolers almost two years ago, so it's still under parts warranty. Can you use the coolant loss tsb 13-8-3 or do you have to use the base slts, just wondering what they will pay for. Thanks

Service advisors got to hit those numbers some how.

I forget the km vs hours, but it did not seem way out other wise i would have remembered. This guy use to have a 6.0 that would plug an ebb tube fast. Maybe this guy runs shit fuel, he is in the construction industry

Odd, I just had my first truck that needed its second scr system, luckily still under warranty. Both times for p207f and black smoke on wot.

Also to add, there is a coolant temp sensor on the left side as well. I had one with a bad o-ring that at first i thought was the rad.

I agree with Matt, the one I had last week both nox readings seemed to be all over the place. I thought something was wrong so I headed back to the shop and by the time I was almost back the reading where in spec.

Hope all works out for you

Did you change the lash adjusters as well? I have also see loose spark plugs make noise. I have no experience with vct lock wedges but i think you also may need a pcm tune to keep the check engine light off.

Good luck man !

Are bad thermostats leaving a code at least.

I just finished an oil leak that looked like it was just the oil pan. I took the timing cover off and found the gasket was flat and leaking right at the lower part of the block. That lower coolant jacket must have some hot coolant coming out of it because that gaskets was baked hard. Front timing cover on a 6.7 is not one of my favourite jobs, the front crank seal remover does not work. Has that tool worked for anyone else?