Steve Mutter

I have a 2012 6.7 that is buzzing from the secondary filter. The line with the green clip from the secondary fuel filter is buzzing and if you put your hand on it you can feel it vibrating as well. I have changed the filters, tested the inlet restriction and found it around 3 inches. I have a know good pump so I installed it and I still get the buzz/vibrating line. This truck does have a bigger fuel tank in it with some kind of tuner. The odd thing is if you shut the truck off and cycled the key on and off several times to prime the fuel system you can then restart the truck and let it idle and it doesn't make the noise. But as soon as you rev the engine up past 3000 RPM the buzzing/vibrating starts up again. The other odd thing is when you have the truck running and it's making the noise from the line you can go under the truck and cracked the water separator a little bit and the noise goes away. Has anyone out there come across something that seems similar, not quite sure what to think about this one. Any opinions would be helpful.

I had one a couple of years ago. I tried forever and could not get it out but another tech in our shop was able to. He was able to get a screw in the centre and pulled it out with a heel bar.

Bullet proof diesel has some sort of fix for this that does not involve removing the heads. Check it out, http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/BPD_Cylinder_Head_Repair_Tool_Ford_6_0L_p/cylinder-head-repair-tool.htm

We had one a couple of years ago that had stuck injectors, the guy working on it gave up and took the head off and punched them out. I think the customer was running some kind of biodiesel.

So the truck was not acting like this befor the hpfp. Maybe have a look at your fuel rail pressure and sensor voltage to see what it's doing.

New update, it can not be installed on a truck with out the option from the factory.Thanks hotline Request Form Details:Description of Vehicle Concern:LOOKING FOR CONNECT CDIM C2500 OASIS IS DOWN AND WE CANNOT IDENTIFY WHERE THIS CONNECTOR IS ON THIS 2015 UNIT FOR THE ADDON IDLE SHUT DOWN MODULEDiagnostics Performed:THAKS FOR HELP HAVE TIS FOR MANUAL CONCERNSParts Replaced:MODULE Question: Body Conversion:Answer: COMMERCIAL Technician's Question:DID THE CONNECTOR GET RELOCATED ON A15 NOT THE SAME AS A 2014 THANKS Additional CommentsComment From: Ford Comment Date: 8/15/2014 1:08:23 PMJim,It appears that the connector C2500 is in the same location as it was on the 2014 model. It should be located on the left side of the instrument panel and is a 14 pin connector. This will be connected to the CDIM on the GD184 circuit (BK-GY). Comment From: DEALER Comment Date: 8/15/2014 2:35:19 PMHELLO THE CONNECTOR IS NOW WHERE TO BE FOUND ON THIS VEHICLE IS THERE MORE THAN ONE HARNASS THAT MAY NOT HAVE THE CONNECTOR? [j-bell79][WEB]Comment From: Ford Comment Date: 8/15/2014 3:06:32 PMJim,As you suspect, if the module doe not come with the vehicle the connector C2500 will not be present. The actual connector and pigtail is available and has a Service Part Number: 3U2Z-14S411-BJAA. If needed it could be spliced into the system. See page 13-18 and 13-17 in the wiring diagrams when available and you would need to splice the connector into circuits CDC33 and CDC34, run circuits from the pigtail to the MS CAN network and supply a ground. Comment From: DEALER Comment Date: 8/18/2014 5:40:51 PMWE HAVE WIRED IN THE PIGTAIL AS PER WIRING DIAGRAM DOUBLE & TRIPPLE CHECK THE MS CAN CONNECTIONS CAN NOT ENABLE THE MODULE. WITH IDS OR USING THE BRAKE & ACCELERATOR FOR 240 SEC METHOD.AS THIS VEHICLE WAS NOT EQUIPPED WILL WE NEED AS BUILT DATA TO ENABLE IT & IF SO CAN YOU GIVE US THE AS BUILT INFO WE NEED. [r-bauche][WEB]Comment From: Ford Comment Date: 8/18/2014 8:05:43 PMJim,Our apologies as the recommendation to install the pigtail should have not been made. Vehicle build information shows that this unit was ordered without the engine shutdown timer from the factory. As a result there are no provisions to add this functionality after the vehicle is manufactured including any modified As-Built data.Understandably the Workshop Manual (section 303-14B) suggests that this feature can be enabled with the APP and brake pedal method, when clearly it cannot be. This method was intended for 6.4L equipped vehicles and the appropriate team will be made aware of the discrepancy in the manual to address this error.Again, our apologies for the misinformation and unfortunately at this time there is no factory authorized or supported method to add the idle shut-down feature on this truck.

We'll I got it figured out. You have to order the truck with that option for that connector to be there. The hotline gave me a part number for a pigtail and told me it could be wired in. Going to wire it in next week and see if it works.

I have a 2015 6.7 truck here thats wants the engine shutdown installed on there truck. I have the cdim module and found the conector location in the wiring diagram but don not see anything that is would conect to. Is there another hraness I have to buy? anyone have any information on this.

Matt did you get a chance to measure cooling system pressure after the repair? I know this is an old post, if you don't remember that's okay

We just had a 2015 setting different codes but the problem was with pin fit at the tcm. Take a look at the tcm and see if there any pins that look darker. Don't know if this helps, just thought I'd put it out there.

Alliant power is also now bragging about only using new spool valves in their reman 6.0 injectors. Wow, that's a big tell on their quality of previously remanufactured injectors.

Nope, bone dry. It's hard to tell but I think the seal that seals too the front cover it's the one that was leaking, nonetheless a new pump was put in and all is good.

I removed the intake and blocked off the open coolant lines and it still would bleed down,blocked off the upper and lower rad hoses and it still bleeds down. So the only thing left the has a o-ring seal is the water pump so I put a new water pump in and that was it. It now pulls to 25 inch's and holds pressure. Thanks

I have 2005 6.0 that will not hold vacuum when trying to fill the system. I have just done the head gaskets, pressure tested the egr cooler(ford egr cooler) when it was off and found it not leaking and re sealed the front cover. I can hear it gurgling in some of the rad hoses but have had no luck yet finding the leak so I put pressure on it still nothing yet. Do you guys have any tips for trying to find a leak that only leaks when vacuum is pulled on a system.

Like Buddy pointed out make sure the bleeders are top.

I had one a couple of years back that came loose just after I installed a new reman, I just got in the habit of checking the torque befor installing the pump, but forgot the spec. thanks Keith

Does anyone know the torque of the hpop gear bolt and if it is left hand thread? I am just puting one in and would like to check the toqrue.

Have you done the procedure when you get the EGT temps above I think 300 degrees then let sit for 15 minutes. I think it used to be a ssm

Probably a healthy mix of too much idle time and the check engine light was on to long causing the truck not to regen plugging the filter.

I have seen a lot of right side up pipes but have only had two exhaust manifold leak, one on each side so far.

Hard to believe but that's their stance on these types of failures

I think cetane is right. I looked at the rear of the scr/dpf and it looks like it is starting to melt down. I did not find any liquid contamination in the downpipe. I put a new scr/dpf and a nox sensor, re set the tables,performed a dpf re set and had the key off for three minutes. Cleared all codes and road tested. Running like a champ now.

The air filter was plugged( looks like it got wet ) the map sensor was plugged with carbon and I updated the PCM. I did the pinpoint tests for the two codes and did not find any other faults, I called the hotline and asked if there was anyway I could get it to complete a manual regen. They just told me it is too plugged up and that it will need to be replaced. My dpf pid reads 11psi at wot. The customer gave the go ahead for the scr/dpf if needed but I would like to try a fool the pressure sensor some how to see if I can get it to complete. I just don't know how I could fool the sensor yet.

I have 6.7 with p2463 p246c that will kick me out of the manual regen and gives me code 18. I have tried five times to do a manual re regen without success. Code 18 is for the dpf excessively plugged. I was just wondering if anyone has run into this and been able to complete the manual regen and save the dpf. This truck has 152 000 kms and is out side warranty. I have the PCM up to date with ids 90.03 just to note.

Every time I have been forced to use this shit it has come back leaking. Very poor quality!