iceman

ford racer actually mine ran, sounded like shit but it ran the dampner was still bolted on it cracked the front cover i was amazed when i tore it down only thing holding the crank in was the number 1 and 5 con rods i suspected porosity or some shit it got a long block

i had 1 in my stall about 2 years ago the data stream would stop during cranking also when you cranked the truck the starter would disengauge intermittenly and go back to cranking again it was the weirdest thing, buzz test however was not succesful it flagged a #2 injector i disconnected it and the truck cranked and ran great have not seen one since

i have load tested and checked a 6.0 harness after its off and a new one fixed it good luck finding the wiring problem its a pain in the ass after the old harness is removed and i stripped all the tape and conduit off it too

pull the exhaust manifold to determine if the valve cracked or dropped so you dont have to tear it all the way down these happen on the cab and chassis, i also had a broken crank on a 6.7 in a pickup the crank sheared before the number 2 main cap these engines are gravy and easy to build and install so just jump in man i have buit and tore down approx 22 so far and 1 pickup 6.7

what was the pink stuff that was all over the injectors and in the bottom of the injector cups i am curious i see the stuff in the cups often thanks

got a 2011 6.7 f250 pickup with 28330 miles and low and behold the engine fired up and came to a startling hault. Tore down found crank broke clean off behind number 1 main behind #1 and#5 con rods anyone seen this before its pretty nead

i understand and see where everyone is coming from i am strongly considering paintless dent repair i live in a hail prone state and i heard the money is damn good

tried this procedure last week was amazed how fast it came out and went back together i did all the above except did the whole job on the ground and found the oil pan can come out in about 45 mins thanks for the quick tip man

yea not to bad and up i am flat rate the no start paid 11.3 i believe and the hpfp was extremely easy to replace as well as the lines should be no problem for anyone to have one out in under an hour or so

update installed new hpfp and new crush lines coming from hpfp reset hpfp tables and bled system left upper intake off and turbo inlet or lower intake off and the engine fired up and ran i was suprised that it did even with out the intakes on lol the engineer told me that when a long block gets replaced that for some reason it will not start he said this is not the first and they usually need a hpfp afterwards i just don't see y it failed i used a puller to remove the hpfp gear when i built the engine and when i put the new hpfp in and i also had all lines injectors and hpfp plugged off to prevent dirt

oh sorry guys forgot to mention crank sensor ring was installed when i built engine i have rpm signal. hotline submitted my request to the escalation team they said thats a new thing talked to an engineer yesterday told him it has to be the hpfp, he agreed i am gonna install it and see what that does. thanks guys that was the first thing i asked myself was the tone ring and sure enough i have rpm but still no start lets see what this hpfp will do

truck has 33000 miles cab and chassis replaced long block, turbo and number 7 injector, assembled engine and installed in truck now its a crank no start set code p2291. truck ran when first brought in when valve dropped. frp is 223.60 psi. replaced fpcv, fvcv and frp sensors from known good 6.7. hotline had me do a flow test on low pressure system to see if it flows 2 liters in 30 seconds which it does, had me remove return lines and disconnect injs to see if its venting out return side which its not. i took intake out and inspected lines to see if i left a plug in by accident and found no problems fuel is clean no dirt or metal found in system, hotline escalated my request and told me to crack inj lines loose to see if the system is aired up i have bled it for a day and still no avail the truck needs a hpfp, also hpfp is timed and the nut is torqued, any suggestions thanks kevin

i have seen the fps leak on 2 6.7s here in oklahoma

sorry guys don't have the net at home so i am at work on my lunch break this is a 2011 550 cab and chassis 33000 miles #5 exhaust valve broke off taking out piston and cyl wall i dissassembled the heads and found the exhaust valve had hairline cracks in them the valves and heads are on backoreder so prior approval said put a long block in it also the turbo is locked up to be honest i think tearing down a 6.7 is way easier than a 6.4 almost feels like tearing down a 6.0 lol

i am in the process of builing a 6.7 longblock and should have the parts list up in the next several days i hope it will benifit you guys

be careful of the new chras i have put some on only to pull them back apart for leaking oil at a stake plug near the vgt solenoid or making a loud ass whistle noise on the chra near were the shaft goes to the back of the turbo that controls the unison ring just some things too look at sometime u get a good one but most of the time u dont hell don't matter to me turbos are grave off and on and fixed lol

The piston is: made of an aluminum alloy. fitted with an upper keystone compression ring. fitted with a lower rectangular compression ring. fitted with oil control rings. this is according to the wsm on fmcdealer for a 2007 f-250 with a 6.0

heard the same thing here that the fuel lines to the injectors can be reused up to 7 times tech hear had an injector loose the lines were d99 was told to reuse them he did and to all our suprise they did not leak even after doing the hpf test, truck has been gone for a few months have not seen it since

i would like to know what the cover looks like 9 times out of 10 when u have grotor damage to cover is damaged also i have replaced many and all recieved covers i looked at the oil flow the nextplace to go is the oil cooler after the g rotor unless the regulator is stuck open causing it to dump back to the pan if not could be plugged oil cooler how many miles on this unit to note i have also assembled all of them lubed not dry i have never had to prime or pull suction on one

i second that another tech ran into that problem here egt 14 and 13 are crossed on narrow frame trucks he contacted ford and they said yes

i am thinking the ball from the hpop is missing causing your no oil pressure problem the witness marks in the lpop are not enought to cause a problem or so i am aware of

bruce my coworker replace a long block 5400miles ago came in running rough and found injector cup #1 cracked at bottom were copper washer seals due to the injector was not properly torqued during engine manufaturing

can you remove and install a #1 cylinder injector cup with out removing head?

went last week in okc got a coffee table book instructer was trying to contact for to have a question answered in one of the pid displays we looked at on the computer about the scr injector pulsing when no reductant is flowing thru it ford says it makes the injector stay cool to so called dry fire i call bs on that lol other than that seems to be a good engine

COURSE COMPLETION STATUS You have completed all of the requirements for the course 6.7L Diesel Engine Theory & Ops CONGRATULATIONS Kevin Alexandersen! You have passed this course. STARS ID: Course Code: 51S12W0 Completion Date: 1/18/2010 Please print this page for your records. To better serve your needs please provide us feedback in the form of a survey