ktmlew

Shop tour. More broke shit. Will NEVER turn phone again when doing a video...don't understand why it doesn't rotate? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNdEN54JEss

Tank is going in tomorrow. One way or another...i'm gonna getcha, gonna getcha...

Meant to get a picture today but just didn't happen. Got it assembled but nothing in it yet. The casters are better quality than I expected. Crazy busy last few weeks. Probably go in Saturday and move stuff around.

Ding! Ding! Ding! We have a winner. This should last me until i retire. Only have about 8 years to go. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-52-in-11-Drawer-Mobile-Workbench-with-Solid-Wood-Top-22-in-Extra-Deep-HOTC5211B1QBD/204765860?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-205562434-_-204765860-_-N

Purchased online from Home Depot. A correct guess gets a used sweat sock from my gym bag...

Ordered one of the filters. Doing a bubble flare might be just the ticket to get a filter to fit. Good idea. You should consider doing training for a living...

I replaced the primary Master cylinder. All the rest had been done by previous mechanic. Stumbled onto NOS on eBay for 25 bucks. Replaced points/condensor/cap/rotor/wires. Will do plugs after I blow some carbon out.

Not sure if 304 or 345. Cab is solid as a rock. 2spd rear axle. 1600 Series 2.5 ton. Owner is going to sell it.

Resurrecting a 73 International flatbed truck. Fuel tank was full of varnish, pickup tube plugged as strainer had split. The fuel pickup is just a 1/4" OD tube. Can find strainers for 5/16 tube but nothing for 1/4". Any ideas for adapting 1/4" tube to 5/16" strainer? Very limited room to work with. If i could attach a hose to tube...but the hole in tank won't allow assembly outside of tank. I'm now considering replacing the 1/4" tube with 5/16". Even then it will be difficult to get strainer on tube after tube is in tank. The original strainer was about 2" long. The 5/16" strainer I have is 5" long. Has an o-ring about 1.5" down inside.

I'm hoping for a cracked knob. I checked for vac leaks and coolant level. Even tried applying vac to see if I got heat. No change. Was concerned by lack of any movement of monkey motion linkage on side of box. But if knob is slipping then it wouldn't change. Can't believe we still can't build a heater knob that doesn't break? Benn replacing knobs for better than 30 years.

According to service manual the temperature IS controlled by a motor. The "mode doors" are vacuum actuated. I won't be surprised if the one with intermittent temp control is just a broken/cracked knob. The van in question might be a 2011? Need to get prod date. I have only had a few minutes to look at this and when controls were moved NOTHING moved at mechanism on side of case. The mode door for air routing apparently does work as air flow will change from floor/vent/defrost. Just no/very little temp change.

Ok. Subscribed to GM Service Info. Seems it was too obvious...still have knobs cracking. #10012: F/CMVSS Noncompliance - Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning Control Knob Fracture - (Mar 11, 2010)

Have a couple of these that the heater controls seem to work only when they want to. One has intermittent temp control. Other, drivers says heater "cuts out" when under hard acceleration. i tried to check for any body codes but none found. Doesn't appear to use BCM for heater? I may just pay the 20 bucks for 3 days access to GM manuals. If it is the temp control door motor, is there any way to get to it w/o removing the whole dash.

I beleive 55 psi minimum under load is the spec.

This should work at the sensor port. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015NFNC10?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 Now just need an adapter for the filter area.

How do you rec doing an induction service? Only ones i've done last 10 years were with "fogger" inserted into the TB using BG Products. What about Seafoam? Or is the GM procedure the bast way. Pull plugs and do the soak?

The one above does sound like piston slap. My previous experience with piston slap was more pronounced on a cold engine. According to the info i have most of the vans didn't use AFM?

2010 4.8 oil pressure with Tech 2----29psi @ idle---48psi @ 2500. Have a fairly solid knock at higher RPM, doesn't sound like bottom end to me. Either lifter or cam bearing issues? Any options on those crazy expensive adapters to check pressure with gauges at both ports? Using cheap ProMotive Advance filters. They were made by Purolator. Advance bought Carquest so now getting Carquest boxed filter. Who knows who makes it? Have a couple others that sound like they have no oil pressure. Will be checking them out in next couple days/weeks. Likely already killed IMO. Have a couple others that the oil "light" is on but pressure reads good at gauge? My problem is getting them to leave the vans with me. They want to shoot through the building for a 20 minute oil change... I assume you change all 16 lifters & install new oil manifold? Check oil pump o-ring, install AFM valve shield, replace lifter filter screen at minimum?

They responded to activation request in less than an hour. Race ready!

Got it. Will be a couple weeks before I contact AE to update it. Thanks again. Smooth deal.

Been researching this topic and found a document that mentions changing LH valve cover due to PCV drain hole being incorrectly positioned. Also rec'd installing a shield on pressure regulater in oil pan if pan removed to keep oil spray off bottom of pistons. Aware of issues with oil pump pick-up o-ring and with lifter screen getting fouled with debris. I am dealing with 2001-2011 4.8/5.3/6.0 in vans/pickups so I assume no AFM? Have a couple with obvious oil pressure issues. I assume checking the pick-up o-ring and lifter screen are the first steps? Assuming oil pressure is consistent at lower filter port and at sending unit. If the oil pressure concern is repaired then address the possibility of rings being carboned/sludged up? What chemicals are you guys using to "flush" the ring grooves. The injector flush fluid 2.5 hr soak working?

Bought the set of Lisle line Q-disconnect tools. No workie...chinese junk. Very disappointed. Always had good luck with Lisle products but these are poorly made. The 3/8" wasn't built/assembled correctly. Had to put it in the vice and tweak it to get the jaws lined up. still doesn't work. Back to pulling the clip.

In a weird twist driveshaft shop ORDERED a shaft. Not sure why that was cheaper/better than them making it up themselves? $709.99. Rear section is 2" too short...now they get to put in in the tube stretcher?

Over $600 @ dealership. Driveshaft shop says $700 plus to make one. Crazy. Boss is handling it.