ktmlew

Anyone seen any of these? Disconnect battery cable to CJB and short is gone. So that leaves 90% of the trucks electrical system thaat could be the problem. These having issues with water intrusion? CJB is apparently a smart module like Mopars TIPM? Not sure where to start other than to start pulling fuses and relays one at a time. But some of the main relays are part of the CJB.

Wet bowl without pressure. pulled EGR first thing this morning. Picture doesn't really show drops of coolant.

So far I now have six people saying cooler leaking. Now to convince boss and customer. Thanks guys.

Got it. Had to resize. Bowl pic is after i had been cleaned EGR for a few minutes. I'll get a picture in the monrning showing how wet it is in bottom. But how does this valve pass EGR test?

Truck was brought in with customer thinking needed some injectors. CMDTC P0341-404-405-1335. Had a miss under load that cleared up when warm. #1 injector IS showing some stiction but I wanted to fix the EGR codes first. Oddly enough it would pass the EGR test with flying colors but fail KOER test. Finally pulled EGR and it was plugged solid with carbon. Spent couple hours scraping and vacuuming carbon out. Forgot about just starting it up and blowing the shit out. DOH! Some of it was black/hard--some soft, but all black. Just found out this afternoon he's been adding a gallon of coolant about every 3 months. New radiator and coolant bottle/cap. I replaced EGR with AM and it failed EGR test! Got a Ford part. Passes EGR test but still kicks P0404/P1408 in KOER. also ran BG EGR & intake cleaner process. Really didn't seem to do much IMO. So? Noticed when changing EGR's the lower part of intake is wet. Now I'm thinking EGR cooler is leaking. Going to pull EGR, jack rear end up, pressure test cooling system. I've been out of the PS business for about 10 years so waaaaaaaaaaaay behind. But DO have IDS and access to Ford site. So. Why does it keep kicking the P0404/P1408? Turbo vanes carboned up? We will do the injector/injectors but would like to FIX the truck. Our shop will "fix" the truck (EGR) if you know what i mean...

Sounds like something is out-of-balance if cranks keep breaking. Plus you should have the AC injectors in that motor. Need to ID the build date on the engine and work from there. Have to match Ford parts. Pump/IPR/injectors/IDM/PCM programming. Gonna be ugly.

I thought they need 4000 PSI to start?

Pop a cam cap off the RH side. Bet it's scored all to hell. Long block time.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-08-Dodge-RAM-or-Van-ABS-PUMP-CONTROL-MODULE-REPAIR-KIT-WE-INSTALL-/251264579927 I have used these guys before.

TIPM does some strange shit. Just about any electrical fault you can think of.

Pressure bleeder set to 40 psi. Loosened lines at MC one at a time until good flow. Repeated at all lines at HCU. Ran ABS bleed. FULL PEDAL! For about 10 minutes. Came back to check on it and no pedal. Had other stuff to do...si came back after lunch. Rinse/repeat only kept doing it all over and over. Finally got a ton of air to come out at front calipers. FIXED! Thanks for the suggestions. Apparently just takes a lot of bleeding to get all aur out if HCU.

Ford spec is 30-50 psi. I did it first time at 30ish second at 40. Will hit it again tomorrow.

This was my plan. Only good thing about getting used part was had lines cut off so can use tham as plugs. Day off today. Will update with accurate engine size and options plus model year. i think it's a 2011. Too many cars...

Car was towed to our shop from another shop. They replaced booster with junkyard part. Our B tech replaced master cylinder twice one aftermarket other Motorcraft. Then it got kicked to me. Tried pressure bleed, ABS bleed, stroking e-brake 50 times, couple of voodoo dolls. Replaced HCU with junkyard part. Swapped modules so it's original. Still NO PEDAL! I hate swapping used parts but that is what boss wants done. Have good fluid flow to LF & RR and just a dribble to others so one side of MC/system isn't flowing properly. Do you guys find pressure or vacuum to work best to get air out of this stupid design? I believe same system as Fusion?

Hook up nitrogen tank. Get some flow!

This piece of crap. Problem is you can't lift it high enough to move it. Is the newer design any shorter? There is a new part number I believe.

This is the 1999 diagram. If you could get the rad hose nipple out of the block the separator might come out?

2002 Tourass 3.0L 24V Is this the floppy silicone rubber gasket like the original or a more rigid type? The OE is basically formed silicone with plastic washers in the holes so it won't compress and split. Got into a mess today with a rookie changing a PCV valve. Broke PCV valve and then removed intake & unbolted oil separator...what a clusterfawk, since you can't remove the separator w/o removing a head. If this new part # gasket is rigid might be able to get it in? All he had to do was stick a socket on the end and gently turn it 180 CCW...but needlenose charlie broke it all to hell. He is stuck on Alldata. Anymore google is better, IMO. But you still have to kinda know what makes sense. He should have stepped back and said no.

I was at $25 hr FR in 1999 here in the great state of Raleigh NC. Now...25. Forget about raises, paid days off, boss occasionally buying shop lunch. It's all about every bay turning 107%. Even the guy like me that magically seems to always be working when supertech has a day off and three of his comebacks roll in. Primadonnas piss me off.

I wish I was as good at everything as some people here claim to be. Funny how the same guy always knows what is wrong and can do the job in 1/2 the time the rest can. Channeling Pappy Jim...their are wieners out there.

Pneumonia sucks?

Dorman makes one for radiators? 10691

My guess is it's a two-fer. Worn out LP oil pump and leaking injector o-rings.

Nah. As i said in the beginning I didn't really need it. Taken 5 months for me to find out it didn't work as shop I was at had all Chevy's and a Tech2.. I think it was something AE changed with the latest update. Mainly wanted to inform anyone thinking about trying AE, they are still working on improving it. The latest version definitely opens and loads faster than the older with the security dongle. Tech guy said it really didn't have anything to do with the connector. Said the improved functionality was purely due to coding improvements. I'll try to snap a picture of the older version tomorrow so you can see the layout difference.

Turns out the Asian apparently wasn't activated even though it said it was. Had to buy the $300.00 two region update. Connector was at level 36, now at 46 i believe? They have completely updated the whole program. Easier and faster to use although only spent about 10 minutes with it on my S-10. Will get to try it on some other stuff soon. So I now have 2 AE setups. One Domestic/Asian other just Ford/GM. They apparently no longer support the older connector, so to update, would have to send connector in and get the VCI to make it current. Have new program on newest laptop, old version on old laptop. i bought the original setup about 3 years ago but really never used it enough to justify doing an update. Had to decide whether to update or buy a used Snap-On Modis or Verus. Can't buy anything made by strap-on for 300 bucks.