jimmy57

The engineering correctness part of me thinks these quick fittings are shit. The wants money to spend part of me LOVES them!!!

It's a Mitsu. If you find it at the correct level it still likely needs an engine.

DAMN! $700 is criminal for that set of tires n wheels.

I hope they call the FBI and the EPA. Removing exhaust emissions equipment is punishable by some HEFTY fines. The perps are more likely to be put away for lack of ability to pay fines than for loss of property.

One I had with diesel getting into fuel from head crack did the same behavior. Fooled me for a bit as I could not smell the ULSD in the crankcase. Ran great cold and until it got hot and missed a bit and then quit running

I thought 7.3 in MD sevice were governed at 2800.

If the ammonia sensor detects ammonia does a Mr. Clean icon light up on the cluster?

This is so wrong...... the graph looks like a mammogram.

The very rare Chevy Hardtail.

Just mark my words. They will release nano-bots soon that will seek and find oil cooler and EGR cooler clogs and tunnel them clear. When they are done with that they will find any sites that leak oil and put their little nanobutts in the holes to stop the leaks. Warranty costs will plummet. Of course they will fire any nano-bots not punching the correct amount of time on the RO's. Zero tolerance for errant nano-bots.

I've run cross those in some places. MAF sensors on some Euro brands use pentagon and some have 5 point version of torx.

WIth 4 wheel disc brakes and some anomalies of the hydraulic modulator giving some odd pedal feel when nothing is wrong I have started doing blocking plugs on master cylinders to check them. I have ends from lines that I cut and weld to seal. Stick those on and then push pedal and see if the pedal goes down. If it is solid then master cylinder can be eliminated.

I love manual transmissions about as anyone but the reality is that they sit on the lot and collect dust in most model ranges. If you ran a company you know you can hire people that can drive automatics but employees that won't destroy clutches and knock the points off synchros are few and far between. In the last few years the traffic that so many drive in is another factor. I have a manual V8 sedan and a wagon turbo 5 cylinder sitting in the drive (not commuting in the F450 and buying 6 19.5 tires while hauling my one ass in the cab) and I drive the wagon. The times I drive the sedan I regret it. I feel like I'm unnecessarily being cruel to the release bearing and clutch disc. I grieve for the dual mass flywheel. I have no such emotions for the torque converter in the wagon. The other thing that no longer holds water is manuals getting beter fuel economy.

Ford shouldn't make the wide front end feature on F350 DRW tied only to 4.30's and Max Tow package. 4.10 would be more than enough gear. They way they are doing it the F350 with 17 inch tire and 4.30's is a more powerful truck than the F450 with 19.5's and 4.30's. Once you've maneuvered 36 foot and 40 foot trailers with the trucks with the greater wheel cut of the wide front end of 2005 and later 450/550 you hate to give that up.

Has Quigley AWD'd one yet? You know it's got to happen.

OK this one ended up being really simple. The owner changed the oil and put over 20 quarts in it. I got it back to dig into the problem and was on my way to pulling oil pan. I was catching the oil in 4 quart Rotella jugs and when I filled up 4 of them I was getting suspicious. The 5th one filled was confrmation and then there was the most of a another quart in a 6th jug. I will say that when it gets up on the wire it is hard to read just how far up on the wire it is. He said he put oil in it and then got a cell call and then put in some more and got called to a fire (vol fireman) and then a couple days later finished putting oil in it. The aeration symptoms are exactly the same as for a sticking IPR. ICP falls, IPR ramps up and it runs like poop. (I checked the oil via dipstick and I didn't catch it.) The long time involved here is due to the fact that this is a farm fuel/tool truck. Rarely goes down the road and the problem, just as when it had a failed IPR, wouldn't occur unless they drove it a while. USe on the place never caused a problem and they never got it too me so I could work through the issue.

It is a Fomoco Diesel Core Value now. Part of the mission statement. I'm hoping they rewrite the mission statement and make radiators last longer than brake pads.

I have to thank all those persons that find and post these oil training videos of all kinds. I have watched hours of them and get a kick out of it and learn stuff too. Thanks to all of you that link them here also.

Looks like I have a pan pulling in my future to see what's going on.

It is consistent. It will idle all day long but if driven where oil temps go to 200F or more and at engine speed of 2000 or more it will start doing this to some degree. I can drop a gear and keep revs up and keep it running. If you ease it down it will never die. If you let it drop to idle while its in the middle of the episode then it will stall and take long cranking time to get it to run again.

Rotella 15W40 is the oil used and the problem has occurred before and after an oil change. I have not tried an ICP sensor due to the fact the base engine oil pressure getting erratic fluctuations when the injection oil pressure falls and IPR % ramps up and maxes out. I could try one and would have if it weren't for the relation of engine and inejction oil pressure.

I guess I was wrong but it sure looks smaller than the 9.75 unit.

I have a nut buster. 2006 F350 6.0 142K miles. The truck will lose power and sometimes die after it has been run 1/2 hour and you cruise at highway speed (65-75 mph). When this happens the IPR valve signals maxes out (84%) and the base engine oil pressure is fluctuating 20-60 psi. ICP goes to 550-700 and it will die an be hard to restart if you let evs fall when this is happening. Other times hot restarts are quick. Even though HP oil pressure is low when this happens, fuel pressure has been checked and is 56 psi minimum but usually 64-66 when this is happening. The engine runs great other than this issue. New front cover and oil pump. New injectors 12 K back. All oil rail seals, standpipe, STC, etc hve been replaced recently. HPOP was replaced. Oil cooler has been done. HPOP feed screen clear and IPR screen clear. No debris indicating anything in oil filter paper pleats. IPR has been replaced. Nothing scored or visibly wrong with oil pressure relief valve. Nothing wrong with the valve in oil filter housing that I can see. I substituted a known good valve due to the scoring always seen on oil cooler bypass valve just in case. I can't think of a way to detect foamy oil on this engine. I am curious if this issue has been seen by anyone. Any cracked oil pick up tubes or other lower end issues that anyone can think of that would cause these symptoms? I WANT MY LIFE BACK!!!! Thanks

I was surprised to be behind one on the road that was a 350 high top LWB and notice it has a 8.8 rear end. It was SRW so it is not the high GVW but I still expected a 350 to use a Sterling/Visteon 10.25/10.5 rear.

Mass powered by impact blow does it. I have had larger axle or pinion nuts that a 1/2 drive impact with 1/2 drive 6 point socket wouldn't budge. I will grab the 3/4 drive 12 point socket with 1/2 to 3/4 adapter, all things usually making the sitution worse, and the impact will then get it loose.