jimmy57

My favored repair is to use a 1 inch long piece of old small diameter brake line and drill rad and nipple so it fits inside. I JB Weld the steel tube into rad and nipple and the nipple to rad. I use the 5 minute JB Weld and 100 grit sandpaper prep on rad and nipple. Second step I do is to find a 1 inch by 1/4 inch piece of thin metal I cut with metal snips. I JB Welded that across top of rad to nipple, 1/2 inch on both, and then put another layer of JB Weld around the nipple to rad joint. The little strip of metal really braces it up. I test this repair on a seam leaking rad first and it withstood a lot of force, more than it takes to break a virgin nipple off.

The Bulletproof deal doesn't have enough explanation. I could see a revised full bore slleve with a cut relief slot for fuel inlet being a fix. The Bulletproof tool seems to not be that. My personal truck has fuel into coolant issues. I have not been able to pinpoint which head after a few fuel bore pressure tests. The machine shop we use can get me American made bare heads for around $400 each. I'm going that route. This truck blew gaskets and I nursed it home while pulling a 30,000 pound trailer plus hay load. It took 10 gallons to get me the 100 miles home. The heads were surfaced 0.002" each and no cracks found. My worry is that they both got hot and one is cracked but the risk is great the other could crack so do both and be done.

14 to 20 ga is gas starter motor, 12 gauge and bigger is diesel starter motor. V drop tests are best when the wire insulation is molten. If the insulation bubbles and smokes go down one stater motor class.

That is some Twilight Zone shit. Scary. Very scary.

Phenolic (plastic) caliper pistons. VV carburetors. lubed for life rubber insert tie rod ends.

It cost money to find new problems. Also it is more environmentally wise to recycle.

Yep, HT4100 had iron heads, aluminum block, but had iron cylinders. They went through intake gaskets and many pulled head bolt threads out of block.

I think first prize still goes to GM: the Vega. Make an aluminum parent bore block and treat cylinders with some silica Pixie dust. Then due to lack of rigidity you make the cast iron cylinder EXTRA tall so it braces up the block. Save weight in the lower end and add it all back to the head. Ford V8 spark plugs is in second place. How hard can it be to include enough spark plug threads? How hard can it be to do a rework on the heads (3 valvers) and learn from your mistakes and NOT do something even more stupid? Ford 6.4/6.7 radiators is third. Radiators should last longer than tires and more than half as long as brake pads.

I have had Goodyear G rated 235/85r16 all steel in three different models on new trailers in the last dozen or so years. THEY ALL BLEW UP. I kept thinking that the living quarter horse trailers they were on were getting nails or whatever and going low on air in motion and then failing. Goodyear warranted some of them. I switched to Michelin XPS rib and to Wan Li and those trailers have not had any tire failures. I wore out a set of XPS ribs with no failures. I wouldn't have any of those heavy rated Goodyear trailer tires. I am far from alone. I have met several others at the horse shows who had Goodyears do the same. Maybe the fact that these trailers when full of horses do put over 3000# on each tire. But Michelins with the std DOT specs of 3042# will live through this and the Goodyears with 3520# (or something thereabouts) are not likely to take it.

When I worked for a car maker I had occasion to see several test vehicles. The probes and pressure sensors and plumbing are ripe for leaks and resultant fires. Isn't that a gas engine in that truck? Could have been an LPG/CNG engine for that matter.

You know that long term use of John Deere Hygard will result in the parts prices of your Ford trucks increasing. It sure happened to all the John Deere stuff I work on.

They are using a Giubo coupler? How European! How Merkur!

I'm afraid the Lean Cuisine will not offset the gallon and a half of frozen sugar water in the box on the upper shelf..... AND, to make this relevant to the original topic: if a person were to burn old ATF and waste oil in their 7.3 they'd save enough to buy lots of Pop Ice.

The blue ones are DEF pops aren't they?

Are the red freezies for offroad use only?

I would think it is due to fuel build up in oil that exhaust injection has always had as a side effect. Exhaust valve stress might be a part of it. If the Transit was used in heavy city use then the regens could be frequent and the fuel dilution in oil would be a problem if introduced in cylinder. The move to additional injector in pipe has been widespread in commercial diesel engines.

The price of fuels were the highest ever when Bush was in. Summer of 2008 would have been when they would want to drop them to favor the Republicans if they played that game.

The cure for 450/550 C&C turbo failures is lost sales of 450/550 around me. Some long time big utility and construction company fleets I see on the road all the time are now getting 4500/5500 Rams. These guys have had Fords as long as I can remember. I hope someone in Dearborn is getting the feedback from those customers as to why they are leaving the nest.

I saw a real bitchin' rig the other day but I didn't have my pone with me to have a camera for a photo. It was an early 2000's Town car on 26's with at least a 6 inch body lift. They had fabbed panels so you couldn't see the gap between frame and body. They did something to get bumpers in original spots. It was in a parking lot. I didn't hang around to see it go down the road as I didn't want to be on the same road it was on.

The part that threw me off was the fuse blowing precisely at 75 mph. There is a stretch of road near me with 75 mph speed limit and the truck would blow the fuse when he hit 75 mph. When I drove it with amp probe I saw the same thing. There is some vibration that hits its peak or at least jumps up in amplitude at that speed. I had moved the harness in the area before but it is in a place where you can't see it for the EGR pipe and some other plumbing. That it got moved and went right back to the position ready to buzz on the stud is a bit amazing. Of course, in 251K miles and 17 years the wire bundle has hardened and likes to be in its long time position. I am happy it got dark and the arc occurred to get my attention. I was unlikely to be watching while it is on lift going 75 mph. That is a bit too scary.

I found it. I decided to run it on the lift (Risky but tough problems take tough investigation) and I could get the high amp draw at bit over 75. A storm was brewing and a dark cloud blew over and I didn't have shop lights on. I ran it up to speed one more time and I saw a reflected flash under hood to the left. I looked more closely and I found where the harness was laying on a stud on the top of LH valve cover at rear most position. I dug in to see if there was damage. It looks like the oxygen sensor heaters have a 10 gauge wire before the splice and that was the wire. One spot so all I did was corrugated sleeve and tape and replaced the unused stud head bolt with a regular bolt. This is a beater the neighbor's 16 year old son bought with his earned money. I offered to repair it and he gets to shovel horse crap out of horse stalls.

97 F150 4x4 4.6L 5 spd manual 251 K miles. I have a weird one. The 30A Maxi-Fuse, pos 24 in engine bay CJB will blow consistently at 75 MPH. It got a new fuel pump for this problem but that had no effect on the problem. I think the shop just used SWAG to decide fuel pump. I inspected wires and harness to injectors, coils, purge, EGR controller, all 4 HO2S's, MAF, IAC, and intake control. I used a mirror to inspect harness behind engine that goes to ox sensors and it is not near anything and is still secured at original harness clips and ties. I drove it with a jumper loop and amp probe and when you get to speedo indicated 74-76 mph the current jumps to 60 to 100 amps and will come down when it coasts down to 72-73 mph. Sometimes the engine cuts out when it shorts but comes back in an instant when the current draw drops. At other times the current on the fuse is 9-14 amps. I know of nothing that is switched on at that speed. No vibration starts at that speed. The truck is not free of vibration as it needs some tires but no vibration amplitude or frequency change occurs in that speed range where short or excess current draw comes on. Just throwing this out as you never know if someone may have encountered something unless you ask. Thanks guys.

I'm a bit surprised at his comment on idle hours. A 47 avg mph truck doesn't idle. The only vehicles I ever see that kind of avg mph on are rural expressway use with no idling. I get 39 avg mph on a vehicle I commute in from rural to edge of the city location. Few traffic lights or stops and very little slow speed driving on the commute trips.

And technicians..

It is the closed end. I bought a FOMOCO display vehicle (2006 F450 C&C) that had likely been cranked and run 10 minutes or less dozens if not hundreds of times in the 1500 miles it had on it when I bought it. I had an intermittent miss when towing that could never be captured. FInally at 77K miles when I developed a dummy plug leak I decided to explore. I took the injectors out and and ground a slot on the spool closed end. I also polished the spools with 1000 grit paper and reassembled. I had nothing to lose but my time and the cost of seal kits. I was considering a full Motorcraft reman'd set anyway. I'm at 95K miles now and it has not missed one time. I had the beginnings of cold stiction before and this winter we had a very bad for Texas winter and it never missed a beat on cold starts. I'm not sure what cured the miss. But one of the two actions, polishing or the occlusion relief slotting, seems to have done it. I'm not proposing repairing injectors. I was just curious enough to conduct my own experiment.