Jeff_E

So wait a minute...if I need one for an 04.25 engine built 4/8/04, I would need a 3C3Z 12B637 BA ????? Shouldn't the prefix be a 4C3Z ??????????????????

I had one do that, Freeze frame data showed IAT at negative 13 degrees on mine so I assumed it was a fuel geling issue. Problem did not occour for me and I advised customer to use more anti gel agent.

MUCHAS GRACIAS /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

OOOOH Thats Great info. You don't know how many wrong harnesses I've gotten. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/notworthy.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif By chance does anyone know the engine harness number for the 03 6.0 (pre 9-29-03 with the icp on the hp pump)???????

YOU'VE GOT A COFFEE ROOM. We're lucky to have indoor plumbing. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rotz.gif

Good morning Jim /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cover.gif Yeah, Those were a couple of things I ran across from people who obviously draw inspiration from the public forums. After several hours of having my ass handed to me, trying to figure out what was going on. I had to finally dig into the cluster and see for myself the grand hackery behind my suffering. Then it all made sense, and I NEVER FORGOT. It kind of makes me wish that people here had to get some kind of annual inspection to make sure everything is on the "up and up." It sure might have saved me the brain damage incurred from that mess.

Check These out Hydrogen Busses Hydrogen ICE technology

The electrical tape looks a whole lot more professional if you take apart the instrument cluster and slide it behind the graphics applique. And for the customers who actually notice the bulb failing to prove out, you can skip the tape altogether, and just transplant the bulbs ground circuit and T it into another modules MIL control. This is where Jim is supposed to chime in and call me a "Damned Wet Blanket." I keep trying to tell him that I'm just a moist towelette with pie in the sky dreams of someday becoming more than just the sum of my parts. He doesn't seem to understand though. It must be an Irish-Canadian thing. Ohhh I can't wait for the response to this hehehehe /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/popcorn.gif

If the exhaust smells like french fries, it aint B5.

TSB 07-21-5 states that EOT should be about 225 when ECT is 200 degrees Farenheit. And if there is more than a 25 degree spread during the concern to replace the oil cooler...but only after performing the other steps in the diagnostic procedure.

Now Now Mr. Bank's Power... Isn't asking techs what throws up red flags in their minds, kind of like a fox asking the hens if there is a back door to the hen house that isn't guarded???

At my last dealership a tech had one with a similar concern. He determined it was coming from the drivers side by taking off the throttle plate adapter elbow and sticking a stethescope hose inside in to each side of the intake with the engine running. I thought that was pretty clever, but then he took the cab off, and both heads off TWICE without finding anything wrong /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hitthefan.gif, no bent push rods, he even took the valves out of that head and found nothing. Then he quit and I got stuck with it. After digging a little deeper I found one of the roller lifters for cyl #5 rotated in its bore and wiped out the cam. I hope this helps, let us know what you find.

Good, then you're already in a position of power!!! Apply for the next good position that is advertized, and STICK IT TO YOUR BOSS HARD /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hahaha.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whattodo.gif

Ford says the max allowable Bio is 5% and any damage caused by using more is not covered by warranty.

I know what you mean Jim. Back in my country of America /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/boxing.gif we have an enormous baby boom generation that is starting to retire. We started to see a real shortage of talanted people for a while. Then Ford started closing dealerships by the hundreds (including my prior dealer - RIP Planet Ford of Minneapolis) and as a result there was a consolidation of techs. Only the strong survived, in fact, I am one of 5 senior masters at my current dealer, 5, now how unheard of is that. For a while there was a stack of applications on my SM's desk of unemployed Ford techs, and a real feeling of being disposable. Now, finally a certain level of normal has resumed, and I can see unfilled job postings in the paper agian. Infact, last week a dealer about 20 miles farther from home tried to recruit me. Having been through both scenarios, I think it is better when there is a shortage of techs, even though it is a lot more brain damage for those of us on the front lines. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/poke.gif

Well, your service director is an idiot. Unfortunately that is not an uncommon phenomenon, and the grass may not necessarily be greener at another shop. My advice: Keep doing a good job, keep taking on the difficult work and honing your skills. USE THIS PLACE as practice, and MANIPULATE them in to sending you to paid Ford classes. Get certified in a high end specialty like Diesel or Transmissions. Once you do, they will start to realize the death grip you have on their nuts. Keep checking the classifieds every week for a job at a place you would rather be, but dont just jump at one until you are sure it is right. Don't burn your bridges, but when the time is right, send out your fat resume, and inform your current boss what he will have to do in order to keep you...especially if this occours at a time when he is short handed. This is the only way your idiot service director will realize that of the two of you, YOU are the only one who can find work in the SKILLED labor section of the classifieds...and if he wants to keep you, he will need to pay a premium. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

I agree completely Jim! That is why this is the ONLY place I will share such ideas. I know that my audience here is smart enough not to listen to me /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/icon_crazy.gif Thanks to Keith and his careful watch over who he lets in /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/notworthy.gif

Normal module reflashing and parameter setting is MUCH easier and does not involve all of these complicated steps. This As Built forcing procedure is only used on rare occasions like when a vehicle is misbuilt, or there are complications when doing the standard module replacement procedure, or in situations like this if we are trying to re-engineer something that is not meant to be changed. I do module replacements of all sorts frequently, but I doubt that I have to go through all of that more than 3 or 4 times in a year. Unfortunately there is no map to tell us what the data means. That is TOP SECRET Ford proprietary information that they will never share it with dealerships. Otherwise they would have a bunch of cocky smartass techs (like me) messing with stuff that ought not be messed with, and they cant have that now can they? All we see is the addresses for the modules, and the characters to type into it. Prior to IDS software version 51, the secret code of the day was always (CENSORED), but now they change the code every day and you have to go through hotline to get it on a case by case basis. Unless you do a workaround which is a REAL pain in the ass and involves looking at wiring diagrams and disconnecting module power inputs before selecting module programming on IDS, then when it can not recognize that module it might prompt you to enter as built data, then you reconnect the module wiring and let her rip, and even that does not always work. They do not make it easy to modify some things. That is why I am leaning more toward building custom pressure chambers in which to install TPMS sensors. (Never for a customer vehicle though - only my own). It is easier to fool a computer in to thinking all is right in the world, than it is to give it a lobotomy. When it comes to humans however, now that is another story.

Quote: IF (and thats a big if) it even works at all that is. Either way this is way too much rigging for a customer, its more of a personal vehicle kind of hardware update idea. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/readthis.gif Now now Jim, I did not forget the CYA disclaimer

IF (and thats a big if) it even works at all that is. Either way this is way too much rigging for a customer, its more of a personal vehicle kind of hardware update idea. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/readthis.gif

OR, if your vehicle requires different pressures front and rear to make it happy, you may need to build 2 such devices with 2 sensors in each one and pressurize accordingly. This will ofcourse only work on the style system with the sensor on the valve stem. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gif

I have done As build data forcing before. The main thing is finding a VIN number for a vehicle that is ABSOLUTELY IDENTICAL in all other respects except for it not being equipped with TPMS (same year, option package, number of doors, EVERYTHING). Then you run oasis on the VIN and click on the as built tab and print off the sheet with all of the module addresses and corresponding data. Open a new IDS session and go into module programming section. If there is an as built data option, go with that. If the only options are (module reprogramming) and (Programmable module installation), you will have to shoot the folks at hotline an email asking for the secret IDS code of the day for doing an As Built force. Once you have it, hook up ids and start a new session. Click on the IDS tab, on the upper left, then click on the Swiss army knife tab on the bottom left. Click update / special function and key in the secret code that hotline gave you and hit the tick button. At that point you will get kicked out of the screen and think that nothing happened, when in fact something DID. Go back into your vehicle session. Go into programmable module installation, click the module that is responsible for dealing with TPMS on your vehicle, weather it be the IC or the SJB ect. What will happen now is the IDS will mysteriously not be able to recognize the module and ask you to manually enter the As Built data (that is what the secret code unlocks for you). Select yes, and a screen will pop up with a module address that corresponds to one on your as built data sheet. Enter the Data EXACTLY as you see it on your sheet and follow the on screen instructions. If that does not work, you will have to return the vehicle back to normal by entering the proper as built data for the correct VIN. It is possible that there is no such thing as an identical vehicle without TPMS, and if that is the case, you will have to REALLY think outside the box. One idea that might be fun to experiment with: Go to your local Lawn and Garden store and get a small pneumatic lawn tractor tire and wheel. Dismount the tire and drill 3 extra valve stem holes in the wheel. Put ALL 4 of your TPMS sensors in that wheel, remount the tire and air it to 55 psi. (Make sure you buy one that can handle that pressure). Go through the TPMS initialization procedure for your vehicle as per the workshop manual, and throw that little tractor tire assembly somewhere in the luggage compartment of your vehicle. Hell, it doesn't even need to be a real tire, you could go to a hardware and get a threaded 3 inch pipe with 2 caps, drill 4 holes in it and mount your tpms sensors, seal it up and pressurize it to spec. That way the computer can see 55 psi on all 4 sensors, but you can air your actual vehicle tires to whatever you want. I have yet to try it, but might work. If it does not though, you will only be out the price of a lawn tractor wheel or some plumbing supplies, and of course your time. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/popcorn.gif

How about getting as built data for a similar vehicle that isn't equipped with TPMS, and forcing that as built data into the vehicle that is equipped. It might be worth a try anyway.

Just out of curiosity...What happens to the ones that blow up during the product development stage. Does Banks pay to have them fixed, or do you remove any evidence of "foul play" and tow it in to the nearest dealer for warranty????????????

Look, Obviously Head gaskets can be a weak link in a 6.0, especially if the truck is pulling more than its rated for. Anything that increases boost pressure beyond what the manufacturer designers only exacerbates the problem, and in some instances, may be the defining factor in weather the head gaskets will fail for that particular customer or not. Off the top of my head I don't personally remember dealing with a Banks major failure, but I have dealt with drivability issues from them. I had a turbocharger one time that had a turbine wheel break off from over spooling and launched itself half way down the exhaust down tube. We had replaced the turbo a month prior, and this time the customer happened to leave a programmer in the glove box. I took the necessary action to protect FoMoCo. We even got a new truck sale out of the deal, and our sales dept took it in the shorts when they got stuck with the bill for fixing that trade in...so everyone is happy. My instructor at the Ford training center told us that buying a vehicle is like buying a box of marbles...if you drive it normally, you throw away 1 marble each time. At that rate, your box of marbles should last a long time. But if you soup up your car, you start throwing away handfuls of marbles each time, and the life expectancy of your investment is greatly diminished. Penis envy is fine, but don't expect Ford to pay for it.