lraffe1

cranking rpm was 150. i test drove and got warmed up. i checked mfdes and is .13 grams hot idle. i also checked cyl perdel, 1 and 2 bouncing around 1%, 3 is around 2-3%, and 5 is 6%. also ran cyl con test and flagged cyl 8. also checked and oe battery only has 230 cca and motorcraft has 680 cca. thanks for the help going recomend a battery and retest and then see what he wants to do about injs. what do u gys think about the vavuum test for 7.3. is it worth the time it takes to use it properly.

i came into for at the begining of 6.0s. i actual took the last 7.3 di class in cleveland. i have done my share of 7.3 di. i have manged to pass the idi on to the older techs but now that has ended because the only other diesel tech in shop was a tranny specialist then. this one is are local township water rescue that get used maybe once a year. with that being said many of the injs returns have been replaced along with hoses and some clamps. i do not see any signs of leakage around injs and there is no fuel on floor were it has been siting the last few days. how do tell if the water seperator has been replaced. it looks simialer to f's but donot know for sure if it the same. i donot know why but i have worked on a lot of old shit lately. i put a warrant 5.8 in a 95 f250. he put a black box in it and after a year it lost compresssion. i found burnt exh vavles and several had recessed. i put in new long block. started it up and found and exhaust leak. new eng had cross over tube ports. this truck had the secoiundary air tubes in the manifold. the best part is we used the part number from his invoice when he ordered the first eng. we doubled checked again afterwards and the were the same.

i should have add truck is a 01 and only has 79705 on it. wouldn't think it would need set of injs at that mileage maybe one or two and some o-rings. it does have one oem battery and one red motorcraft batt. think maybe i will start there.

wouldn't u see a fuel leak?

i used my micro vat and it was 198 then dropped to 90 amps

i have a 7.3 idi in an econo line that will fire then die and then has long crank. when it does fire it starts right up and runs good. it does it after a few hours of shut off. ambient temp also does not affect it, so i do not think it is the glow plug system. i think it has a fuel drain back issue. i put a clear hose in constant return. when it is a crank no start there is no fuel returning though it. i also checked for air blubs at 3000 rpms and there is none after it is running. is there a check valve some where that stops fuel from draining back. this is before my time and probably most people at ford hotline so any help is appreciated.

i have a hard start 7.3. i suspect it is glow plugs or relay. i first stuck my test light on the relay and has power through it. i then test each gp at valve cover and lights on each one. i then checked amps and peaked at 198 then quickly dropped to 90 amps. i thought there was post in past about this but can not find it or remember if this is normnal.

i had a local farm haul in 6.7 on flat bed to day. He started it with a cat in the fan. I think it was a tie. Along with the cats life it broke the belt, fan, fan stator, and broke the boss off the front cover for fan stator stud. I am tring to put together an estimate for repair. It says to remove upper pan for front cover removal. I was woundering if any one has tried removing front cover with out removing upper oil pan.

it knocks hot and cold, also changes with rpm amd load. piston was not miced. but rods were checked for startness while i waited. maybe piston is source. i was thinking of replacing rod and pistons, but would hate to put back in and still knock.

I have a 99 sd wreck with 175000 miles that came in with rusted oil pan and no clutch. I had another tech in shop install new clutch and oil pan. on test drive engine started to knock. I then cancalled cyl and noise lessons with cyl 7 inj unplugged. i then ran compression and all cyl around 350. i then removed and tested injs and found several bad including 7. i replaced injs and noise was still there. i then swapped 7 and 1 and noise still in 7. we pulled eng again and pulled bearing caps. the bearings showed signs of wear. i replaced bearings with crank in eng plastie gauge and are in spec. I installed engine and noise stil there. now engine is out and disassembled again took number 7 rod, piston, and right head to machinist and had checked okay. i then rechecked rod and main bearing clearences in spec. machinist also suggested maybe it has cracked crank. i have also checked new clutch and appears okay. i donot no if i missed something or not ayn suggestions would be greart appreciated.

cutomer camplaint is a hesatation on accel. it acts like a stuck vgt vain. ran eec test no memory codes, koeo pass, koer p1408. the egr valve and dpf were replaced 2 months ago. I have checked egr valve and has fuel travel. i checked press pids and all within .2 psi. i ran egr system test on diagnostic sheet and passes. i have also removed and inspected ebp senor and ran wire through ebp tube. i have also removed air inlet to check low pressure turbo, there is no signs of contact with housing, but i think it doesn't spin as freely as it should. looking for suggestions before i pull piping to check hp turbo.

I have a customer blow the head gaskets on his 6.0 in oklahome. His brother went out with 6.7 and a 6.0 on a trailer to haul his truck back and pull his trailer back. when they were coming back the cel light came on in 6.7 and it could not not keep up with 06 6.0. they both were grossing around 23,000. the 6.7 was only getting 5.8 mpg, which i understand there is many variables in mpgs. I found p2459, p24a2 in memory, and on-demands all pass. freeze frame data showed truck was going into regen every 58 miles but averge is 185 now. I contacted hotline and checked several things. I verfied maf is same as like truck, power balance is good, relative comp is okay, and fuel trims are okay. I then verfied dpf reads 0 koeo and does not rise above .8 psi at idle. I then preformed manual regen. After regen i used maf to verfy egr is shutting. this was proceder from hotline (Disable the DFCM using IDS and monitor the MAF_A during cranking. A reading of 8.5-9g/s indicated no concerns. A reading of 5-6g/s indicates a possible leaking EGR poppet valve. A reading of 2-3g/s indicated a base engine concern). I got a reaing of 11 g/s. I then reset scr and dpf and test drove. I feel truck seems to hestate compared to a pickup, but this is only chasis cab i have driven. I not sure if the trucks using two different turbos could be causing this. Hotline thinks customer got dpf plugged from short drives and idle time. Which I have encontered many times with 6.4. However, if that is tha case i find it hard to understand why it didn,t act up sooner. It seemas old that truck made it from ohio to oklahome and then started acting up on way back. has any one else ran into this problem.

I ended up just repalcing o-rings per customer. I test drove and was better but i could still get truck to surge under right conditions. I talked to customer and they took a weak ago and have not called back. I feel it has several bad injs but i can not get it to flag and cyl. I tried runningcyl cont several times in a row. I also, tried running it in gear but passed every time. I told customer if it still acts up it will need 8 injs.

i like most of use stub nearly all 6.0 and use oem gasket. the only studed truck i have seen blow heads was some dum ass running nearly 40psi boost with stock exhaust. It was on its 4th set at 120,000. When i got it tore down i sent out heads and had 7 cracks on one head when machinist quit checking. i had never herd of them till one of my customer told me his plans for truck when out of warranty. He already has egr delete, studs black onix gaskets, so called 100 horse injs, and is ordering ball bearing turbo. he has already had programmer and monestor exh stack. amazingling he has not blown headgaskets because i think he said he runs 6 gun on 5 at all times.

I m working on a 6.0 at home for a friend. It needs headgaskets and coolers. I figured while it was down I would install new stc fitting and replace all the hp oil seals. I am studing and considering using black onyx headgaskets. I am tring to find some first hand knowledge on them. If I cannot find any good info on them I am going to oem gaskets.

the lilse tool is the only tool to use. I tried using fords with no success. I even let epoxy set over night still would not pull porclien. I ordered one for next day. I had it out in less then ten mins. I also perform a carb clean like bg's product or something similar. I also get engine hot and do one bank then start get hot again and do the other bank. I have a friend in near buy dealer that starts and runs between every plug.

I had an e-van at my dealership going through idms every 3 months or so. When I got it it was on 4 idm. I checked every voltage, ground and inj circuits. I could never find a problem till I drove it in rain or maybe it just sat in ran can't remember exactly ist been awhile. I installed a ran hat maid from an old inner tube, which I think was a suggestion from someonr here, and it has not been back. However, I don't remember hearing of super dutys doing this. Also, not real sure how u could protect idm this way with how idm is mounted in fender well.

When i took 6.7 training in cin ohio train instructor said truck was a preproducting truck on loan to a dealer from truck plant. Truck was intend to only be there for show only. He said dealer got alot of shit from ford because they pulled truck with out fords permission.

I this is irst time i have pulled injs on this truck. I have made it a habit to torgue all inj. However in past i haven't torqued other bolt on 7.3 sense it is not losened. I will try to make sure i check them from now on. Talked to owner and decieded to just replace o-rings. this truck is there last 7.3 and gets drive by idiot hired hads. Just schuleded in 6.0 and 6.7 in same phone call both with cel on.

I have a hot nostart o8 econ. I verfied no oil pressure and that ipr is working. I then contacted hotline and they say all 08 and up econ 6.0 have the updated stc. So I take there word and pull valve covers and air check. By this time it has cooled down and i cannot find the leak. I then remove dummy plugs and they appear are ok. I then removed stand pipe check valve and the right side is in two peice. I don't know if anyone knows this but on the updated check valves the darker colored piece with the o-rings on it is threaded in and retains the spring. I then removed pipe that connects to branch tube and removed remaning pieces of check valve. I then contacted hotline and they said to replace stand pipes assemble and retest. However I am wondering if check valve could have backed apart when removing and there is a different cause of conern. Has any one had pump cover off 08 and up evan and do the have the one piece stc. i have worked on aleast one or two evans a weak for three months straght and realy (realy!!!) do not want to take this thing back apart.

I tested inj with esst tool. all injectors held vacaum but was bubbling out of spill port. Accordong to test proceed if air is leaking out of spill port inj needs replaced. I then contacted hotline and they replied that if all inj leaking about the same that is normal, but if one is leaking more to replace it. In my opinion that basicly says if all them are equaly bad leave them alone, but if one is bad to replace it. I am going to contact customer tomorrow and leave it to them replace 8 or o-ring it. I feel with 164k they should be replaced. However, hotline did give me some good info for future repairs. He told me they have seen vss signals spike from bad wiring, sensor, and rfi cause vehicle to think it is over speeding and then causing engine to buck. Hopful this info will help someone someday.

I removed valve covers and supplied 12v to ipr and then cranked engine. I found oil leaking past #8 inj o-rings.

I had this happen to me twice. I now suck out the oil cooler resevor ever time so i make sure there is no debris in to take out ipr. Which one of those was cp. I removed damaged screen then used battery to full field coil which moved valve enough to remove the piece od screen. I then replaced screen and has been back is aleast six months.

I have a farmer that only uses 3 gear when pulling a trailers. When truck is driven at a steady spead it starts to surge with crusie set or with acc pedal. I can also duplicate it in 2nd and od but is not as noticable. the only code is 1211 in menory, all ondemands pass. When the truck is surging the icp and ipr are erratic but miroring themselves like pcm is ether comanding concern or tring to correct with ipr but cannot. I have changed oil and filter. Then ipr and icp per hotline and concern is still present. On last test drive I unplugged icp and drove. The concern was still present but not near as bad. Also fuel pressure is 50 psi during concern and is building 21 psi of boost on wot. Could I have a inj o-ring issue causing an erratic icp or could there besoming else.

I had an fse come out two weeks ago and asked him about this when he was here. He stated that most engineers in ford feel that duramax is maxed out with out a major redesign. He said that there was no plan to increase power this year, but could see 800 plus next year. I asked about durablity and he clamed that when testing the engine and trans it was programed at 1000 plus ftlbs. According to him the engine and trans had no problems but drivetrain was a different story. I quess we will wait and see.