lraffe1

I pulled all push rods on engine and checked. I found that both push rods were bent on 6, exh was bent on 4 and intake was bent on either 2 or 8. Truck orginal had a bad idm with a right bank high to low circuit open and also a failing 7 inj. I replaced idm, inj, and o-ringed other seven. I cleared cyl with glow plugs out like I have always done installed glow plugs and ran fine for 200 miles. Then number 6 exh valve bent, could it be possible that the failing idm and inj could have stressed the properly firing left bank enough to damage push rods or even bottom end. although it has been one of those months and maybe i just fdup amd didn't catch it. any thoughts or suggestions

I tried loaded ids into my pc with 7 and window comes drivers not installed. my sm is to cheap to buy wireless. i may bus my own before long. wear can i down load a driver or do i need to change some setting.

I have been considering a getting any ae for some time. I checked their web site and found nothing about power balance being added. Has any one that has one herd any more about this.

Has any one herd of or used the oil additive called hotshotsecret. I checked their wed sit hotshotsecret.com and it clams International Truck & Engine has tested it. They also clam it will fix sticking injs 86% of the time. I know many times chemical companies say how great their product is with all these promises and data, but in realty it is a bunch of crap and doesn't work. However it would be nice if there was a product that does work or aleast help in preventing future inj failures.

The first egr valve i removed broke and stuck in house. housing was easly removed with out removing vert cooler. Sence then i have been air hammer with long chisal bit. I can work then out within before u can get the tool out of the box. I then clean and paint it with anti-seize.

I have a 97 f250 that came in for a hard start and runs rough. i found high to low open codes for right bank. I ohm checked all wiring and injectors and okay. I then replaced idm and codes were gone. the engine still ran rough and started hard but wouild always pass cyl balance. I the removed and tested injs. i found number 7 inj was bad. i replaced inj and o-rings and returned to customer. customer had truck for 2 days and was driving down road started hearing a load poping noise coming intake tube. i took off left valve cover and found number 6 push rode bent and then broke. I then swapped number 4 push rod and cranked eng over by hand and valve appears to move freely. i also noticed that popping noise is louder with valve cover off. the push rodit also ripped out the guide in headgasket. which could have possible caused headgasket to fail and give it that load popping noise. any opinions if i should replaced push rod and rocker first then see what happens or go ahead remove head and inspect.

to be more clear the noise is after engine shut down and turbos are slowing down. i good also her noise after fead and fan have stop turning.

I have a 08 with a complant of low fuel ecnomy and a noise coming from engine that sounds like a turbo going bad. truck has no codes and message centers reads 13.8 mpgs. I did verfy a rotational noise coming from turbos but can't identify which turbo. i have disassembed to point were i can check compressor wheels but don not see any signs of wheel contacting housing or excsive laterel play. i started and ran with tubes off but engine is now cold and not making noise. i personal haven't had any 6.4 failed turbos. has anyone had a concern like this. or has turbo failure starting to become comon.

i got out of class friday. the engine looks good but there is a lot of coolant hoses running every wear. only thing i don't like is special orange coolant. fuel ecnonomy on dash was around 22mpg but we did not get to drive it. i did talked to frien who took class someware elso they drove it and was in low 20s also. the egr system is a big improvement however the doc, scr, and dpf is one unit about six feet long.

I used the mexician manual regen. installed and test drove went through regen and okay. i gave back to customer and told customer i pluggs again he will need to regen. I live about 1.5 hours from cleveland did most off training there.

I have an 08 f250 out of warranty with dtcs p2643 and p264c. I have tried to preform manual regen but will not. Ids says that dpf is clogged but does not start regen it just idles. I don't work 6.4 to much mostly 6.0. Has any one else had this problem. Also has anyone been or tried to clean dpf. I hear that truck industry is cleaning them.

do we need A-9 to keep master cert? I haven't paid much atention to ase and didn't know there was a new one.

I agree theres no way i would install used parts and chance the nightmare that will come after in comebacks.

what is the cost on the DTech remans and are u a dist or do buy from someonr else

Has any one herd of a aftermarket company that sells a reman idm. My sevive manger said herd there has a company out of TN that is selling them. I don't think I would use one if there availablr but is out of my hands.

I have seen 3 fail after replacing egr and oil coolers. I also thought it might be also because of leaving them in parts washer because they have failed sortly after repair.

had a 95 econ no start found a p1668 and injs did not buzz during test followed pin point test and found idm bad i then found it has had 4 idms in last 2 years. i also checked for icp pressure and okay, checked for crank signal and okay, checked fuel pressure and builds 15 psi while cranking. any ideas for idm failures like this

I monitored map, baro, ebp, icp, maf, vref, sync, ficm sync, app and many others. when concern is present all pids are flat lines or angle to where pid voltage is when eng picks back up and runs fine.

I did one last weak heated to point of melting could break loose. I cut off senor reheated used big ass ratch and pulled threads. can't wait till out of warranty and have to till customer they need a two thousand dallor part to replace a hundred dallor sensor. just got a love it.

I have a 04 with 163000 and on acc it cuts to idle. When I firsted started working on it there was no codes. I then found out it had a be reprogramed. I then removed program and retested. I then got inj codes and p0611. I replaced ficm and test drove tuck stills cuts out, on test drive I did get a pid recorded. When I got back to shop I checked recording and found pcm was flat lined during concern. I then inspected wiring harness and could not find any problems. I called hotline and suggested checking baro, map, and ebp. They also stated ebp was must likely cause. I test drove 5 times for 50-60 miles did not cut out. I gave back to customer acted up next day. I ran eec test no codes, pcm still flat lining. Still can not identfy any problems from recording an suggestions.

After removing t-stat I compard to new and found one of the two was coming apart. I replaced t-stat and did not overheat.

sorry slow to give update I found problem by chance. when pulling truck out of shop trans cooler line broke and lost all fluid. when truck lost all fluid eng ran worse. after fixing leak and topping off trans fluid eng ran better. I then unplugged trans and engine ran fine. I ended up replaceing trans because it was wasted.

36 psi while running

customer towed in 93 F350 with a just installed reman long block, with new aftermarket injs, O2 senors and several other parts. When i first started truck would not even idle. I found the iat was open I replace sensors and retested okay. I then checked timing and was out. I set timing and would start and idle, but not accel. I then replaced map because housing was cracked and threre was no change. I then replaced both remote module and stator. The truck will now start and idle and will preform one wot accel, on secound accel eng starts to falls on its face and acts like it is missing, but spark is okay on all cyl. I also checked timing at idle after eng acted up and is okay. HELP PLEASE

I have a 6.4 that is overheating while driving down road, but will idle all day with out overheating. I pressure tested system and has no leaks, checked for blown headgasket and okay. I also checked cooling fan clutch and is okay. I called hotline and was advised to remove front cover and inspect. I removed water pump and machined surface on front cover is okay. My question is if there could be a problem with cover in different place or should i reassemble and replace t-stats any suggestions.