mrbudge

Pull it out, you will find a burnt clutch. Once the clearance in the clutch is too great the pcm can't properly coordinate the shift timing and you get a flare. I have almost never seen a hard part fail in one of these unless it is chipped. As long as there is no metal in the pan the solenoids will be ok. Don't forget to re-set your KAM when you are done.

Got a 66 Mustang Contertible, garden variety 289, no start. Cleaned and tightened the starter relay connections to get it going, but runs like shit, points barely opening. So I pull out the points and condenser all wired together, throw them on my toolbox, and our mid-aged apprentice wanders by. I show him the points and condenser, ask him what it is, he doesn't have a clue. So I tell him, he says he never heard of it. Wow. I was going to tell him about the choke heat tubes that I was making up for it, but whats the point?

Rads in 6L trucks are almost vertical, and nothing gets run more with low coolant more often than an old 6.0 with a leaking cooler package. One day when I am more ambitious I am going to put my GoPro under the hood and go for a ride to see how much all of the cooler stack flexes on bumpy roads. We have lots of them here, no oil patch money to fill potholes for us.

If you take a piece of cardboard, support it on it's four corners, place it in a vertical position, and shake up and down, it will not flex. Now incline the cardboard 30 degrees and shake up and down, watch it bend in the middle. Replace the cardboard with an aluminum radiator with plastic tanks, fill with several gallons of coolant (water weighs 10 pound a gallon, or so) and beat this thing down the road with your cushy 15000 gvw ride, I can't see how a rad can survive without eventually fatigue cracking. This is just my theory, for what it's worth, but we have had rads, thermostats, and engines run with low coolant since the second world war, and now all of a sudden we have rads leaking because of thermal shocking and lack of venturi tees? So why are rads on 6.7's leaking now as well?

Anyone remember the two seat Capri that was imported to the US from Australia? One good thing about being Canadian, we were not blessed with it, but the hundreds of service bulletins were interesting reading.

There has to be a bunch of girls getting chased by the engine.

After seeing Ford's success with Sync wireless communications (not), our VCMIIs are all hard wired, and have been working at least as well as our two VCMIs, which will not be retired until they die.Also, I figure if I tie them to the laptop the chances of one or another going missing are cut in half.

If you unplug the bulkhead connector you will always be able to go in foreward (I believe second gear) and backwards, if your internals are ok. If not, well......

Canada "eh"? I think you might have a little Canuck in you already.

Ford had sent a message at one time saying what the pcm filename suffix should be if it was a OEM calibration, but now I can't find it. We have a 6.7 here that IDS had no trouble identifying, but when I went to do a reflash it couldn't get valid data from the pcm to start the programming process. I did a PMI and programmed with as built and it all worked good, but flipped on the MIL right after. The EGR valve was siezed shut, but there was no light on before the reflash. Oh well, nothing makes me happier than writing over someone elses aftermarket calibration.

Anyone remember how to identify an aftermarket calibration by file name in IDS log viewer?

It pays to be a hack. No one asks for you to do special jobs.

Darwin was a pretty smart guy.....

The only racks I get excited about are under a tube top.

It is behind the front display. I have attached a PDF of the owners guide for the nav system, it tells you how to access it.

There is a huge demand for trained, EXPERIENCED technicians at the dealership level, yet once some one reaches that level they are almost impossible to retain or to attract as a new hire. Just thinking out loud here, but what is the problem here?

I have been to Europe a couple of times, and it is amazing that with all of the diesels running around you never see or smell smoke, you barely notice them running, they are that refined. Commercial trucks are the same way, all with big exhaust treatment systems under the cab and low exhausts. Commercial trucks are also limited to 80 km/h, and must travel in the right lane (on the continent) unless overtaking. These is no idling when parked, period. In France commercial truck traffic is prohibited on Sundays, unless hauling perishable goods. These laws are there for a reason, and are adhered to. Low speed limits and restrictions on idling may seem draconian to us, but they seem to get along just fine. The reduction of emissions simply from the reduced fuel consumption must be substantial. I guess my point to this ramble is if we want to see more diesel powered options, perhaps we should stop advertising our arrogance by blowing clouds of black smoke at every opportunity and letting our vehicles spew cold diesel stink in the coffee shop parking lot.

Old technology runs on distillate. Or better yet, starts on gas and switches to diesel. Any you could get a 2.0l diesel with an EGR valve, how much more modern do you want? Is this thread hijacked yet?

Check for plugged exhaust, especially if it is a 6.2.

Should have kept my Mom's old Topaz Diesel.

Just wondering what you guys are using to get the glow plugs out of 6.7's. The WSM says just use a deep socket without a shoulder. We are using a modded up craftsman socket, but if there was one that worked out of the box it would be better.

In my experience, problems with all modern diesels are rooted in improper operation (do you really need 600 ft/lbs of torque to idle in Tim Horton's parking lot clogging up your egr valve and filling your crankcase) and improper service. Therefore, if you are going to buy one, do you really need one, and if you do, do you trust the last greasy mechanic that worked on it to do a good job (I don't).

I have seen new heads that look like they were machined by a chainsaw, the machine shops we use do much better than that. There used to be a spec somewhere got the distance between the head gasget surface and rocker carrier surface, but I haven't seen it lately. We send our heads out for pressure testing and re-surfacing every time, no problems yet with valves not closing or repeat failures. In also have seen guys say up to .005 surface warpage is ok. I would not put on a head that I can slide my .0015 feeler guage under the straight edge, gas or diesel. And if I see roloc disc marks on a gasget surface, as far as I am concerned the head is ruined.

We have a 2012 F450 6.7 welding truck, in from another shop. Has a new injector but still misses and smokes. Has an EGR and SCR "delete" (I like that term, somehow makes it seem ok). I guess when the rods are that bent the compression gets a little too low to light the fire. Funny it didn't knock. Now if someone can explain to me what the warrantable defect is here we can get some warranty happening. It only has 10,000kms on it (6000 miles). This ought to be good.

Whenever I do a wiring repair on a truck, I make it very clear that I will make the truck work as intended. If the trailer is not present I cannot guarantee the functionality of the trailer. I have a 7 pin trailer emulator which I consider standard for pin locations. Wiring colors do not really concern me as long as the pins are connected properly. I recall one customer who insisted there was a problem with his new truck because whenever he plugged in his trailer the running light fuse would blow. I convinced him to bring his trailer, and when plugging it in you could hear the arc in the connection just before the fuse blew. I offered to trace and repair his wiring concern in the trailer, at his expense, to which he mumbled something about him having a guy to take care of it. And even after all of that I was still an asshole because the fault with his vehicle wasn't warranty and I told him so.