Matt Saunoras

I took apart 3 injectors today. The 2 Alliant Power remans I suspected were leaking high pressure oil, and one ford reman that was failing in this engine I resealed.Honestly I couldn't see any measurable reason why these injectors leaked on the air test. Everything I tried to measure basically came out the same. All three spools measured approx. .2755" and the bores were .2760" as far as I could tell.When we're talking ten thousandths of an inch I'm sure I couldn't get accurate measurements with any repeatability. Especially in the injector spool valve bore using a small bore gage. I've read that total spool valve movement is only .017" so we're talking extremely small tolerances.

Working on that reseal today. It's basically ready to go back in Monday. It's got so far..... Resealed + headgaskets. New oil cooler. Updated STC and dummy plugs. Blue spring FPR. Turbo drain tube. New cam and crank sensors. Shorter oem pushrods. Updated lifter guides. New main bearings and #3 rod bearing. #8 Injector. Pressure washed the intake Recently went out and got a cheap electric pressure washer from Harbor Freight. It worked awesome for blasting the dirt off all the parts.

F-150 2 piece shafts are similar to this and the carrier bearing is non-serviceable through Ford. Our driveshaft shop cuts the yoke off, presses on a new bearing and welds the yoke back on. Perhaps this is the way this shaft is made too.

I have an impact 16mm 6 point that I use specifically for 6.4 head bolts and its worn more than my other normal use 16mm. My 6.4 socket has never seen an impact a day in its life. I also have a 3/4 ratchet and breaker bar head I use for all those heavy pulls. No doubt these engines wear out sockets.

Wow that is awesome. A guy here dropped a 3.7L out of a police interceptor Taurus and had it sitting on every jack stand in the shop. Wound up cracking the oil pan in the process.I like your idea much better, very sweet

There's a couple complaints on the Ford message boards about that. Just goes to show you how some dealers view their techs.

Forget about this one. The truck is getting shipped back to the auction along with another one of this companies 6.0s that are here. I was initially going to swap high pressure pumps to see if it made any change but they decided just now to dump them both. It hot and cold starts fine now just can't maintain ICP under heavy throttle.

Got an 06 F-350 here with 230k miles. This was a recent auction buy that's been here a few times since the summer for various things. Every time this truck is here it has a P2290 in memory but I never paid much attention to it. The overall condition of the truck is poor and it would be impossible for me to fix every damn thing on it in less than 6 tries. I'm at my third try right now. About 5k ago was the first time this thing died on them (and me). I found the oil aerating because it was 5-6 quarts over filled. It got fresh oil and a new set of pump gears and has been fine since. The P2290 always remained regardless of how well it seemed to run. I gave the IPR a look once to make sure the screen wasn't damaged and it was okay. I have actually seen quite a few P2290s caused by IPR screen damage. They are complaining the truck shut off and wouldn't restart. When I cold started it a few days ago I verified that it was slow to build ICP until IPR ramped far enough to push it past that 500 psi mark. Defintely not a normal startup but if you weren't watching ICP you might not know anything was up. I drove the truck, got the EOT to about 210 and tried again to verify the concern. It still was slow to build ICP but actually started slightly quicker, watching ICP still shows a concern is lingering. With healthy trucks I typically see ICP is well above the needed pressure before sync and ficm sync occur, not with this one, ICP is lagging behind. I have seen dummy plugs cause cold start ICP issues so I air check hot and when I get quite a bit of leakage sounds from under the valvecovers I tear right in expecting to nail it quickly. That didn't happen. The standpipes and dummy plugs are all the 10mm style BUT have no wear at all on the O-rings. Leak checking with the engine a little cooler shows nothing under the covers. I left the oil rails undisturbed for the time being. So I rip the pump cover off and much to my surprise it appears this pump has been changed at one point. It has the new orange seals on the pump body and the updated pump connector that is aligned perfectly and not loose. I popped the 6mm hex plug out of the top of the pump to air check there with the IPR full fielded. I was getting quite a bit of leakage from the IPR dump port on the HPOP so I tried my tester IPR. With 12v applied it still leaked a little but not nearly as much as the original IPR. I figured I had found it but to be sure I removed the pump completely and air checked at the branch tube for about an hour while I did other stuff. The last truck I did had some leaking injectors and it took a long time for those to show up. No leaks at either bank so I reassembled everything. New IPR, wired in a new pigtail, new standpipes, dummy plugs and HPOP gasket kit. Much to my surprise after driving this truck about 20 miles to purge the air from the rails it still starts exactly the same. Not even changed a little bit, and guess what? I'm pending a P2290 so I went back out for another ride. That's when I noticed that my ICP desired under heavy load is much more than my actual ICP. At one instance it wanted 3800-3900 psi and the truck was only able to make 3000. I have definitely never noticed any 05+ trucks do this but I have also never seen an 05+ HPOP fail yet. This truck will absolutely not make more than 3000 psi ICP at WOT but it seems to run like a top. Anyone ever run across anything like this? I have seen the 03-04 pumps get weak and cause low ICP but not a newer one. 1st pic is a startup where ICP gets to around 400-450 PSI and kind of stalls out 2nd pic is a WOT run with IPR at 85% and a big variance in actual and desired ICP. edit - also this truck has the latest oem calibrations, oem oil filter/cap and I tried a brand new ICP sensor with no change.

The hot no start 6.0 is still not entirely fixed. I think I'm going to make a thread. Can't quite wrap my head around this one.

I adapted the 6.0 head gasket tester to the 6.4 using the one capped off nipple on the degas bottle. This truck built 16psi just revving it in park, I didn't even have to leave the shop. The 3rd pic is how I pressure test the cooling system to make sure the cap is functioning properly. Also I have a feeling the 6.0 hot no start burned me. The IPR is not closing off all the way. Air checked it at the pump with the cover off and full fielded the IPR still leaks quite a bit of air from the dump port. My tester IPR does not leak hardly at all. Took the pump out, air checked at the branch tube for an hour and no leaks showed up on either bank.

Looked at an 07 F-450 6.0 yesterday. Has what I suspect is direct clutch failure as it wouldn't hold the 3-5 shift under heavy load. Also by the time I got back coolant was pouring out of the front cover, apparently the water pump is bad. Fan clutch wires are cut too. Then I've got a 06 F-350 6.0 with a hot no start, didnt verify but it was a long crank this morning, slow to build ICP. Air test hot had me under the valvecovers which lead to nothing. Original standpipes and dummy plugs that look perfect. Right now I just drove an 08 F-250 6.4 for a no heat concern. What it actually does is intermittent no heat just like a 6.0 with bad headgaskets. This thing is tuned and deleted with almost 200k miles. There is white staining all over the bottle and it was a gallon and a half low on coolant. Rigging up the 6.0 headgasket tester to work on a 6.4

Man you and your warranty administrator get to work early

Here's a couple pics of the mains I'll be replacing. Also the rear seal is hard to see but it's in backwards All the bearings in this engine are .010" over. I ordered the wrong ones thinking everything would be standard. Live and learn. I guess next time I'll look first.

I noticed that too. Don't force the tool too hard and I use a small pocket screwdriver to help release the connector. Any time I'm under the valve covers I try and quote harnesses.

I just want to be able to work on them

Yeah the crank journals are as smooth as can be, no damage there. I'll snap a couple pics of the mains I'm replacing once everyone leaves

The 6.0 I'm doing a reseal on had a rear main seal installed backwards. I initially offered to pull the tranny and verify the leak but they wanted the whole thing resealed Got the bed plate off this morning and the front main bearing is starting to wipe out. Not surprised considering how dirty this engine is outside, it wouldn't be hard to spill any dirt down in the engine when removing a valve cover. Anyone else ever replaced mains while doing bed plate gaskets? The rest of the engine looks to be in good shape (cylinder walls, cam lobes, etc). One rod bearing had some scratches so I'm going to get that too.

Hey I resemble that remark!

Yes, they're similar in the fact that they're engines.

Sold 8 injectors on that hot no start 6.0. Fixed, builds ICP and starts good hot now. The 7 injectors that look original? They were all Alliant power remans. The 2 that were leaking I'm going to remove the spools and mic them, then compare to a ford spool valve. When I get a free minute that is.

Looking at a hot no start 05 6.0. This things got over 200k of hard miles, already been studded, deleted, whatever, you would hope whoever did the work was smart enough to do all the updates. Tried my tester IPR, still the same, slow to build ICP with EOT around 190. So I go to the air check, which honestly I hate to death anymore because it seems all the easy fixes have been done already. Sure enough everything is sealed up tighter than I've ever heard one before. Not a peep anywhere. Took the valve covers off, everything is updated. Pull the turbo and the pump cover. It's got a brand new HPOP, not even rust on the outside yet. You know what that means? Someone already tried to fix this thing. Pulled the pump so I could air check directly at the branch tube with my welded STC, still absolutely nothing. Everyone is gone for the night, all I can hear are the lights overhead humming away. I actually walked away to go turn them off, at this point I've been air checking for what seems like hours so you wouldn't think oil would be still in the rails. No sooner I get back I can hear the loudest hiss I may have ever heard while air checking one. I was fucking shocked. Damn #4 injector, I got a mirror and can see oil bubbling out of the exhaust ports on top of the injector. Like someone flicked a switch. Then not 30 seconds later #2 started leaking. Let those 2 leak for a few minutes and no other ones showed up so I pulled the left rail. Sure enough no oil left in the #2 and #4 injector tops. Air pushed it right past the spool and out the exhaust ports. Believe it or not 7 of the injectors look original

Got a peek at one of these beasts today. As soon as it pulled in I knew what it was, the front end is a little different looking. It was a tow truck dropping off an escape. Begged the guy to let me have a look under the hood and crawl around the truck for a few minutes. Hard to tell much from looking at it but it was pretty cool. I guess it's one of 3 in the Tri-state area, only 3 weeks old. The exhaust is unique on these, it was a big S shaped DPF and SCR with a dump behind the cab. Most of the other stuff looked the same, air box is the same as a pickup. Couldn't tell any size difference in the turbo with it hiding under the intake. It's supposed to be smaller though. Still has the same exhaust brake feature as the 15+ pickups. I wasn't expecting to see any of these on the road for a few months. Anyone else seen one yet?

No reason it should be. Trans is a reman with less than 400 miles on it, that would be the 3rd converter too

I have no customers complaining of this yet but I haven't seen too many 15s in for service either. I read the public message boards too and the amount of posts is concerning but that is zero indication of how many trucks are actually having problems. I suspect there may be guys posting under multiple user names to try and make it look like a bigger issue than it actually is. One of the wholesalers that buys used cars from us has a 2015 with about 15k miles on it, he took it back to the selling dealer and had exhaust valves put in the left head. It did resolve the concern for now. The only thing I can figure is the valves are sticking due to buildup or gumming. Perhaps the guides are too tight to handle the heat from regen.My own 15 has almost 7k miles on it now. I dropped the oil at 4k and put in 5w40 synthetic. No issues yet but I'm making sure I complete regens whenever possible and minimize idle time. Honestly I wish these 6.7s would tell you when the regen is complete too. I can tell by watching my instant mileage but that can be distracting. Always takes around 20 miles to do a full one.

Okay back on the F-550 rollback 6.4L that's eating flexplates. I've talked to the hotline escalation team, I've unofficially jumped a few steps and talked to the FSE. No one has any hard answers or real diagnostic steps beyond what I've already done. I can't make a measurement on this crankshaft that gives me a reason to go further into the engine, it's just not there. So I grab a brand new Ford flexplate and adapter, bolt it up to the engine and take a runout measurement at the teeth. Come up with a ton of runout, like .025-.030". Seems excessive to me. Ran the engine with the new flexplate installed and I can see it's way out, it just looks horrible hanging off the back of that engine. It's very wobbly and definitely not what I would expect to see from something that should be spinning relatively true. Had someone run the engine up off idle and it had a horrible vibration. That was pretty scary with my head up in the tunnel. I was not happy at all with that new plate so I made a few calls and found a used, known good, undamaged plate from a running truck. Put that in today, made the same measurement at the teeth, got .010" at the most. Started the engine again and I see this used plate is running much more true. For a very small amount of time we all breathed a sigh of relief, when one part is bad, especially a stamped, machined part that is subject to tooling wear it's possible all those parts in that production line are also bad. Could we really have gotten 4 bad new flexplates? That's wishful thinking. Then the lingering question, what broke the original plate? Well without anything else to do, I put the tranny back in, got it mated perfectly, checked to make sure the converter was loose and not binding up. Did the 180 degree tightening of the converter nuts and anything I could think of that might make the smallest difference. I get the truck running again but it has an aftermarket alarm type thing in it. When you start the engine with the PATs key it'll run and drive just fine but this beep will go off if you don't touch a special blue key to this little slot on the dash. It'll ring the whole damn time your driving. You can almost drown it out if you have the radio up all the way which is usually what I do, they always seem to forget to leave me the blue key. Not good if you need to listen for noises (like I should have been doing before I let it go the first time). So I ran down their garage, got a blue key and away we go, peace and quiet........but not for long. This thing is making a dull hollow knocking noise at idle and under load about 1200-1500 rpms. You can hear it in the cab with the windows up and it definitely got louder as the engine warmed up. Then sometimes at idle it goes away like it was never there to begin with. Me and the other guy on my side of the shop crawled all over this thing trying to find out where it's coming from. Our best guess? You can basically feel it in the oil pan. When I pulled the little flexplate/converter nut inspection cover off I could hear it even louder. Something in this 6.4 is making a noise neither one of us has ever heard before. I have to assume it's a bearing but really I have no idea, now would be one hell of a good time for someone to invent x-ray glasses.