Matt Saunoras

I bought the last 10 our International dealer had. They said no more after this, it's not available anymore. I will check the number I bought it under tomorrow.

Still no authorizations on anything. Got another 6.4 outside with no compression on #2 and a busted glow plug tip

Wow do I have a prime candidate for some injector spool valve polishing. A 6.0 I have now is experiencing textbook stiction issues causing the vehicle to barely start and run. Got it in the shop, plugged it in for 3-4 hours while I did other stuff. Hooked up IDS, EOT showing 125°F, started up, missed a little at first and flat lined out on power balance. This is our best fleet customer, I am having a very hard time not mentioning it to their supervisor that I may be able to repair these injectors. I need to sleep on it.

oh I did ruin mine too. The hose would spin and I thought I was loosening the adapter too but that wasn't the case, eventually I just yanked the damn hose out and got a socket on the adapter.

I lost my o-ring a long time ago, I saved some old 6.7 injector return line o-rings and used those. It was close to the same size and worked fine.Honestly I don't know why my adapter got stuck. I'll take some pics of the new vs old

I had the same problem with my last 6.4 compression check. Adapter got stuck and I would up spinning my hose fitting and ruining it. The new adapter from snap on is a redesign.

Here is something interesting I noticed while comparing aftermarket vs OEM Both gaskets are 5 layer, read the same thickness and both are stamped with 6237557.

The dump needs injectors and has fuel in the coolant. Also a no cab pull if its okay'd

If someone can find me individual IH headgasket part numbers I will be forever grateful. I should be able to measure the VR vs OEM gasket thicknesses tomorrow. I think I still have one of each laying around.

6.4 roll back that spit out both #4 rockers, bent some pushrods and both lifters stuck in their bores. Not sure if they'll buy an engine or not, no cab pull if they do. Also got a 6.0 dump hard start, no start cold. This weeks stud job is running good, wish I had time to do it to mine.

Bostech is the ones making the new nipples I believe, and yes they are quite costly. I recently took apart and resealed an oil rail we had returned as a core. The guy who changed it insisted it was leaking, all I found were some hard O-rings but nothing deteriorated. I used the Alliant Power O-rings I got from Blown and resealed it. You can tell the new O-rings are a snug fit compared to the old hard ones.

Try International. Other than that you're stuck installing mahle/victor reinz head gaskets. I haven't looked much into it but there are guys who insist that the VR gaskets are made in the same factory as Ford/International OEM. The difference being the sealant color, I believe there's a few vids on youtube showing the comparison if you care to check them out.

No question here, another stud job for my favorite fleet of 6.0s. Also put an IPR in a 6.0 no start today. Only built 66psi cranking, can't say I've seen one with such low pressure just be an IPR, also the screen was fully intact.

The only truck I ever had do this was one that had it's first oil change done prematurely. This was over a year ago and I can't remember any specifics other than I thought hotline told me there was an additive in the oil to minimize valvetrain noise until it was broken in. I could have sworn my parts guy said there was something out there to add to 6.7 oil to stop this from happening. I never looked into it though because we haven't seen any do this yet.

I watched our hourly guy do one. Took him about 3 days

Hahaha don't forget the bubble gum. I don't torque those either unless its a cab off or engine out repair.

Wow I jinxed myself there. The red dump only needs a reductant pump, the 6.0 and 6.4 are both leaving after declining suspension and brake work.

Nothing too remarkable.

I can't get a good pic of it but it looks quite a bit different from the banjo bolts we're used to seeing. Perhaps it's an early design. The threads also go much further down the bolt

I'm all for repairing injectors if you know the full history on the vehicle. I've got a set of reman sticks in my truck now and if they ever start giving me problems I'll yank them out and take a look. Knowing that they've only run on synthetic oil and the cleanest fuel eases my mind a little.

Rev-x is mostly potassium borate and mineral spirits if I remember correctly. Something about the potassium compound reduces friction in the oil. There was a whole big discussion about it on the org, it has the potential to work but wears out quicker than an oil change. Honestly the inductive heat ficm calibration does way more than rev-x ever could. I found out first hand when I went back to a non-heat strategy. Here are some better pics I snapped this morning.

Now I am not sure if that is the open or close solenoid that the slot is on. The other end cap is not slotted so I'm sure there is some reasoning behind that too. I also do not know when they implemented this change or how much it actually reduces stiction related injector failures. I guess time will tell. I had noticed one time a while ago I picked up a reman injector box and one of the International labels was peaking out stating "with slotted endcaps." Basically ever since then I've been a little more than curious.

I finally got a chance to see for myself the design change in 6.0 fuel injectors. With all the injector posts lately I've been dying to disassemble one and see for myself. Today I had some free time while waiting for some authorizations. The first picture is what we've all probably noticed. The color difference between solenoids on an OEM injector and a remanufactured injector. Black and yellow being OEM, gray and white being reman. The next 2 pics show the end cap furthest from the connector. Notice the slot which apparently reduces or eliminates spool valve latching.

Anyone ever measured the distance between a 6.0 cam sensor and the cam peg? I put a sensor in a truck this morning and the sensor, while it looks original, is weirdly rounded on the end. I can see scuff marks in the middle of the round end like its contacted the peg. The new sensor is flat on the end like it should be. Hmmmm

That is an excellent tip, definitely filing that one away to save my ass later on. The 6.0 feed lines are very small diameter, it wouldn't take much to collapse one. On a related note I did find that weird banjo bolt I was talking about. Gave up looking for it and it showed up, where else but my diesel drawer. pics tomorrow if I remember