Matt Saunoras

The turbine seal is not like a lip seal, more like a piston ring. It's not going to do a good job at sealing compressed air. How is your crankcase pressure? A restricted CCV(or worse yet a CCV delete) can wreak havoc on turbo seals. I'm wondering if the reman problems are a seal quality issue. There's really not a whole lot going on with a 6.0 turbo but when you use aftermarket (non-Garrett) seals you run the risk of a poor quality part. All the turbos I've resealed using OEM Garrett kits have not had any problems.

Got a complete ready to go in on the one truck. Got the left head off the other. #2 and #8 cylinder walls out of spec for taper, out of round and diameter. Shocking. Clearly the high pressure turbo is on it's last legs, rockers are all worn out AND pushrods are all bent (wear marks from contacting the headgasket). Not much, but the spec is only .001". Put in for approval on a high pressure pump too. Our numbers are going through the roof since the new shop. We are doing way more super duty work than other dealers in our class. I am servicing multiple fleets none of which bought vehicles from us. For now our claims are getting paid in a timely manner but I don't know how long that will last

My pics show the drain plug is a different color and possibly made of a different metal. Not sure really but I will check.

Thanks so much Jeff, your hard work is greatly appreciated!

I cannot find the mystery check valve I pulled out of the last reman engine. I'll keep my eyes open for it but its not looking good

Take a look at the banjo bolt closely Keith. I found a banjo bolt in the last reman complete I tore down that did not look like any one I've ever seen before. I replaced it anyways and it should be laying around here somewhere. If I can find it I'll snap a pic.

Interesting about the double additive. Any other time I always run extra additive, usually mix of stanadyne performance and lubricity, never had a problem before this year but it was also much colder than previous years. I was warned to not run extra anti-gel because it can reduce the effectiveness but honestly I don't remember who or where I heard that from.

Not looking good for the 6.4 I've got out right now. It's got foreign object damage on the #8 piston and left head. The right head has 2 helicoils in the rearmost exhaust manifold bolt holes. The lower hole was poorly drilled off center and crooked leaving part of the stud in place. Considering the proximity to a water jacket I don't feel comfortable reusing this head either. All over the up-pipes are torch marks and crossthreaded bolt holes. Not good. Even if I put a stripped long block in it I still need 2 grand more for the high turbo and horizontal cooler. I am waiting on the go ahead for a complete engine assembly so I am going to yank the cab off this other one I got here.

Got er out and on the stand this morning. A little tight, I had to go a little higher on the partial cab lift than I thought. Worked well though, thanks for the tip on the chain between the pedestal bolts.I have a 6.0 head bolt I welded an eyelet on but I would only trust it lifting a shortblock, not a complete

Okay 2 days off from diesels and I'm paying for it now. 6.4 shortblock in one bay so what should I do in the other bay.....oh how about a 6.4 shortblock. Had a 12 F-550 towed in last night, engine idled. Every NOx DTC possible. Found the VPWR for NOx module where the harness runs up above the crossmember at the back of the cab all flattened out. There must be quite a bit of flex in that chassis to pinch that harness between the cab and the frame. Fixed it up, put it through a drive cycle, no more codes.

Used one of my bungs today. Didn't remove the whole DPF just lowered it enough to get in there.

woohoo, got an okay on a customer pay 6.4 shortblock, this will be my first one without pulling the cab. Also got another one waiting for an okay on a rad, upper hose and a EGT13.

I did another turbo last week. Dumped a little oil in the exhaust so I just wiped it out with a rag and never told anyone about it. It's still sitting on my workbench. If they don't call it back for warranty (just a core) I'm going to disassemble it and take pics. Looks pretty close to a 6.0 turbo as far as disassembly. VGT solenoid has to be identical.

Here it is. From what I can tell it's the same stuff as Loctite 640 http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/thread-compounds/retaining-compounds/permatex-high-temperature-sleeve-retainer-detailhttp://www.henkelna.com/adhesives/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797924524033

My parts guy got me some of this stuff to replace the Loctite 620 I've been using to install injector cups. When I looked in the WSM for 6.0 cup replacement I was surprised to see they just want you using Motorcraft Threadlock 262, basically high strength red threadlocker. 7.3s have you using 620, probably why I have it. I notice new heads have a ample amount of green retaining compound in the injector bores so I always assumed I was using the right stuff. Any input? What do you guys use? I would link to the permatex site but I can't figure it out

I've been standing around with my thumb up my ass for 2 days. Got a 6.4 waiting for authorization on a shortblock and high pressure turbo/horizontal cooler. Can't pull the cab either. Nothing else around so I've been doing used cars. Tomorrow I've got a PTU leaking trans fluid on a 12 edge. I've been doing these damn seals since day one.

Banjo bolt?

The ficm harness recall was a little before my time so I had no idea what the recall tape was. I found a 4C3Z-14A099-A on eBay for pretty cheap so I ordered it. Surprising it came with a nice sized roll of tape. Polyken like Keith said. Neat.

Unsure if it was related or not but I usually let my truck warm up for 5-10 minutes in the morning before I leave for work. So today I started it up and flipped the heater on. Leaving my driveway showed a noticeable increase in throttle response. I have to climb a small hill to reach 45 mph and its always hard when the truck is cold. Could be my pump was getting a little weak too. I haven't checked fuel pressure for a long time. Either way it's working better

I'm not sure how many amps a fuel heater draws but I'm using it on a 30A up fitter switch. I think in going to swap the fuse out for a 20A just incase anything were to happen.

The later 7.3s were but everything I looked at for an F-series said it was on it's own fuse. Now an e-series 6.0 if I remember right is actually tied into the FICM logic power fuse. That could cause a problem for sure.

Anyone know? My fuel gelled up multiple times this year and while its a little late I decided to put an end to it. I found a NOS 03-04 HFCM side cover and bolted it to a brand new PFB-101. Wired it to an up fitter switch and bam, nice warm fuel. Before I plugged it in I obviously tested the circuitry with a bulb. All is well.

I need one of those for sure!

yes and might I add this is a step required in the prior approval process for DEF pump and heater/sender assemblies.

Yes I believe they are the new black diamond gaskets. They look very similar to a 6.4 headgasket. I think I'm going with incorrect installation on these. I could see several faint arrows drawn on the bolt heads and none of them were pointing in the same direction, it's very possible the heads were not torqued down correctly. I also had #2 and #6 injectors with early signs of copper washer failure which explains why I had to SPW #4 not that long ago. Not to mention 16 new pushrods installed upside down amongst other things