Matt Saunoras

The history of this truck is completely unknown. It was supposedly in Katrina and completely submerged at one point in time. The company picked it up at the auction last year and I've been working on it ever since. When I serviced the front axle u-joints last year the tubes were full of the reddest sand I've ever seen in my life.

So I found it, as I suspected headgaskets were changed pretty recently in this truck. What I didn't expect to see was aftermarket gaskets. The gaskets didn't look too bad except the small spot on the outside of #5 blown into a water jacket. Very small leak for sure. I also found 18mm heads and the truck is a 2007. Obviously not the original heads, whoever did them put the commonized rocker boxes on the non-commonized heads. To do this you must remove the rocker box dowels. I don't condone this but what can I do? Everything seems to be okay with rocker box alignment otherwise. It's also rare that I have a 20mm head and a 18 off at the same time. I snapped a pic to show the differences in rocker box bolt holes.

Well the 11 psi truck is back, blew a y-pipe flex and I notice its puked a few more times since the last visit. They okay'd headgaskets and I'm going to check the rad and water pump too.

I'm not an international guy but I do have a maxxforce 7 coffee table book. International says they use the ETB to restrict air flow for regeneration strategies (help increase EGTs by restricting intake air). I always thought the throttle body was used to help promote EGR flow (like an 04 6.0) but I'm not so sure now, I've never had one cause problems or had any reason to pull up the PIDs to watch it's activity during regen.

I am grateful for all the help I get on here and all of the input you guys provide. I would have surely owned this truck if I just slapped new gaskets in it. At least I'm getting a nice souvenir from it all (crank trigger wheel )

Alright, finally got a chance to rip this thing apart. It's been here a long time, I know, but being that it's SPW the customer understands the process involved in getting another engine for it.I can only assume this engine was put together incorrectly. The customer insists that it was never over revved. Worked hard, yes, but not over revved, there's no way to prove it one way or another. The right head that was paired with the bad gasket is junk. As dumb as it sounds the deck has scratch marks in it. There is zero chance I dragged this head across anything. I am very careful with everything upon disassembly and I did use an engine hoist to remove the head. I even showed my SM some scratch marks that are underneath hard carbon proving they've been there since assembly. One mark I have is a direct leak path from the combustion chamber into a water jacket. No brainer, it's getting a right head.I completely disassembled the left head, it is fine, no bent valves, weird valve wear patterns or seat problems. 2 exhaust valves have some strange pit marks in the stem so I'm going to change them.On to the shortblock disassembly. First thing I noticed was my oil pump gears have some unusual wear marks, a couple of the teeth have some odd pit marks in them too. The faces of the gears are scored a little more than normal also. This prompted me to remove the regulator. I found the cap was finger loose and the regulator itself looks like someone ran 80 grit sandpaper over it. Definite score marks and most likely sticking. Pull all the rod/pistons out and the top of every rod bearing has copper showing through. Some worn heavier than others. This tells me without a doubt the excessive piston protrusion is putting stress on the rod bearings during compression.The next thing I found sealed the deal on this engine and showed me exactly why this thing just didn't run right (aside from the bent pushrods). Power balance was goofy and the engine had a weird vibration. The crank trigger wheel came loose and the dowel hole is completely elongated. The trigger wheel actually has scrape marks on it from hitting the inside of the block.I re-measured crankshaft endplay and still got .005". The thrust washer has some wear and some copper showing through on both sides but the wear is not excessive and no scoring present. All the mains looked fine in this thing, one had a small score but I didn't even check the crank to see if it had a matching mark.So a shortblock and one head should do it. Cust needs to buy a main harness, I am not putting the old one back it.

My phone shows a 2015 650/750 and all of its available configurations. Couldn't see anything about a 2016 though.

Are we talking 6.7 ford or 6.7 cummins? The site just mentions cummins which is what's in a 650/750 now as Aaron mentioned.

Guilty of that. I have a little red turbo fan that I lay facing down behind the back of the engine.

I ordered a dually buddy so we'll see how it works. I'm not looking for something to take the place of a hammer just to make it a little easier to hold pressure on the wheel. On today's plate is a BJB harness for a 2011 F-250 6.7. Harness is all corroded in the box and the truck won't crank unless you jump the exciter right to power. Also the thing is getting an EGR cooler.

I don't know about 2008 in particular but the socket I use on 450s and 550s for the rear wheel hub is 3 1/4" and yes it is quite large and 3/4" drive. The 2011 550 I did today was the same size as I've seen in the past. edit - Blue point ANS1909A is what I have. Yes it is 8 sided, and no (until now) I did not even realize it was 8 sided.

That truck only has 13k miles on it. It's a plow truck, probably it's 3rd winter. 550s in our area get semi annually inspected and there's no way these wheels have ever been off. It took me over an hour to beat the rears off with a 10lb sledge. My arms are still mush. Anyone ever used a dually buddy? I think we talked that tool a while ago.

Honestly Keith? I put an EGT13 in this thing last week!!! Drove it 10 miles watching my regen pids and never heard or felt a thing!

No dry spell for me. Got 3 in today plus the one I already have down for the engine. This is one 2011 F-550 dump that spit some caliper pistons out. Can you guess why?

Tapping the brake doesn't appear to bring the high idle down like it would on a 6.0 or 6.4.

I feel a dry spell coming also. Lots of little jobs or declined work lately.

Some of the radiator airflow is definitely restricted on this truck. It does have a large home-made steel cow catcher on the front. It basically encloses the whole lower half of vehicle. It does not run like it's heavy(just a flat bed and a fuel tank) but I'm sure the company does tow with it occasionally. I don't have any way of hooking up a trailer to this truck even though I have the luxury of a long steep grade a quarter mile from the shop I always mix coolant at 50/50 around here and always with distilled water. It's around 22°F here right now. It was in the 40s yesterday when I was driving it. Thanks for all of your input. I guess comparing trucks to each other needs to be done with some discretion. I wouldn't be surprised if this truck had an underlying headgasket problem, but the only thing I can do is tell the fleet company exactly what I found and let them make the decision. These guys are good about listening to me.

Besides the obvious purging coolant from the degas cap, excessive cooling system pressure, and air pockets getting trapped in the heater core. Now that I've got a wicked awesome pressure testing setup I've been playing around with it on nearly every 6.0 I get my hands on. I've got an 06 F-450 that looks like a volcano went off under the hood. Lets just say after the initial repair there's no chance it could be an EGR cooler anymore. Serviced the oil cooler, installed an STC, cleaned the turbo and went for a ride with my gauge hooked up. The initial warm up drive of 5-6 miles resulted in 8psi of cooling system pressure and 185° ECT/EOTs. Got back to the shop, released the pressure and tightened the cap back up. Now I took it on a good long ride, over 30 miles, several good hard wot runs with no visible fluctuations other than a steadily rising needle as time and miles progressed. By the time I got back cooling system pressure had rose to 11psi and held there after I shut the veh off confirming no leaks anywhere. 11 psi, while not out of the limits of cooling system pressure, does sound excessive to me. Now that I am accurately measuring pressure I'm trying to get a feel for what is the normal range of a 6.0. I couldn't drive the truck any more without seriously wasting time but it doesn't look to me like the pressure would have leveled out and perhaps it would have kept climbing until it purged or caused some other leak. To me this would be an indication of a slight leaking head gasket. The fact that I released the initial warm up pressure, then the truck proceeded to make up all of that 8psi + more has me wondering. Any input? Am I crazy?

Ours was in a large box all by itself. There were other 7.3 injector test tools supposed to be in the kit but there weren't any

Sorry no tips. The only thing I found was that I had to compress the valve springs pretty far to weasel a rocker out. Even with the cam lobe in the proper position it was difficult to get the rocker off the pushrod.

Put the TR sensor assembly and manual lever in the ambulance. One of the pins that moves around in the detent was completely worn out almost to the point of breaking. The lever would move in and out and the pin would hang up in the steps. Hard to explain unless you saw it. If I get a chance I'll snap a pic. The 18k lift found its match today. Put a reductant sender in a 13 F-550 today. It weighs in at 19k all the time. Also did one fuel injector in a 6.0 in the drive thru service lane.

Anyone ever remove the case roll pin with a welder? Yep it works

Today I got a 2005 E-450 4wd box ambulance to test out my other 18k lift. This sucker is the big-un I put heads on last year. They're complaining the shifter won't go from reverse to park easily. The mechanic says the shaft going through the case moves in an out a lot more than normal. I verified it will slide in and out of the case a 1/4". No idea what direction this repair is headed yet. 3 more on the schedule tomorrow, two 6.7s and a 6.0 that blows smoke. We'll see how many show up.

These cummins swap jackasses really piss me off. There's a guy on the org who's been waiting over a year for his cali-legal cummins swap to be finished. 2 shops later he'll be 20-25k in the hole when it's done. All because he couldn't deal with a 6.0. What a joke.

5w-40 is all my truck has run on since I owned it, cold start or not it's better oil all around. I believe the 6.0 injectors greatly benefit from it.